Boost Probs...How 2 fix?
 

Getting ready to buy a 94 Touring. Car has only 36k on it. The guy that has it says that it doesnt boost correctly....says that it "sighns off" right around 5psi....also says that the car begins to run pretty crappy after it warms up. He says it is not smoking excessivly and the is no oil in coolant and vice versa. He is supposed to be performing a compression check for me within the next few days. the car is entirely stock except it has no cat, only a pre-cat and an aftermarket exhaust.... I wont truly understand what he is talking about untill i get the car. This will be my first FD so i turn to the "experts" here for advice.....i didnt know if this was a common or easy to fix prob....but i guess ill find out now.

Take the car to a rotary specialty shop BEFORE buying it. Pay them to check out the car thoroughly BEFORE you buy it. You want to make sure it doesn't have any major problems = ($$$$.$$).

It will be the best money you ever spent :)

[QUOTE=Ceipherz]The the car is entirely stock except it has no cat, only a pre-cat and an aftermarket exhaust.QUOTE]
That's weird, usually you get rid of the pre-cat. So, he has a mid pipe and a pre-cat? I would look over that car with magnifying glass.

the pre cat is clogged. get a main cat. get a downpipe. put them on.

If you're serious about it, have a rotary pro look at it and do the compression test. There are ways to make compression tests read too high - so trusting him to do it may not be a wise idea.

The boost problem could be from a poor exhaust setup (dp + cat are around $500-800), cut hose coupler, or bad solenoid. Or something much worse - a rotary shop should be able to bracket the possiblities for you.

Dave

I appreciate all the replies. Unfortunatly i dont have enough money laying around to take it to a shop before i get it.....tho i would love to, i cant afford it. My guess would be like someone stated, the pre-cat is clogged or some type of solenoid or sensor is bad. If i do end up getting the car ill figure out what the prob is and keep everyone posted......hopefully its not a big deal.

My original intentions were to wait untill Spring time, Sell my GTUs and buy a nice 10-12k FD....but im getting a good deal on this one, so i was just going to get it, sell the GTUs, and take that money to fix up the FD...but i dunno anymore..lol

Huh? From your description of the car, there is a geater than zero chance that it may require a new engine soon (and, who knows, rebuilt turbos), which could set you back $3-$6k, and you are not willing to spend $100 to check it out?

An RX-7 is probably the worst car your could pick to take this risk.

This will be my 3rd RX7. But my first FD. I am very aware of the risk i am taking buying this car. If worse comes to worse i will take a loan out against the car and have the engine completly redone along with a single turbo conversion. I simply do not have the money at hand right now to pay a shop $100 to look at my car and say "yup...your right...its broke". I know something needs fixed, and no matter the severity of the repair, i will have to get it fixed anyhow. So i see it as pointless to pay a shop all that money to actually do nothing, when i am eventually going to have to pay someone to fix the problem, whatever it may be anyways.

And i dont remember starting this thread asking peoples advice on wether or not that i am taking a risk, i know i am taking a risk. I asked for someones opinion on what may be wrong with it...........so ya, any more ideas on what the prob may be?

you can probably find a better deal man

Do a search for "boost problems" or "rough idle" and you will find hundreds of threads. Your problem could be anything from a loose vacuum hose (cost to fix: $0) to a ready-to-die engine and turbos (cost to fix: $3-$6k).

That you are are not willing to pay a mechanic $100 to see if it is the former rather than the latter is an interesting decision.

My point is, for the Price i am getting the car at, it will not hurt me to take out a larger loan to have it fixed. With that being said, and knowing that no matter what is wrong with it, i will more than likely buy it no matter what the problem turns out to be, why should i spend $100 for someone to tell me what is wrong with the car, when in fact, after i get the car home i will be taking the car to someone to have the problem fully fixed anyhow? It just doesnt make any sense.

And besides that who cares? How i handle buying a car is my business and noone elses. If i choose to take the risk and not have it checked out then that is my choice, a foolish one maybe, but either way its my decision, so i dont understand why anyone else feels they need to chime in their 2cents about it.


Anyhow. If i do decide to buy the car i will have more information on exactly what the problem is, and go on from there. For those of you who answered my original question, thanx for the help....definatly things i will check for.

[QUOTE=Bad_Karma7]There is absolutely nothing wrong with such setup. My car was like that also when I got it. Original precat and intake restrict airflow enough.

Ofcourse it makes sense to take it for pre-inspection. This way you know if your are facing $100 or $5000 fixing costs. But if that doesnt make a difference to you, then I guess its ok not to check it.

About problem with the car - could be clogged precat (most likely). Could be bad air intake sensor or one of the solenoids. Could be disconnected vacuum hose for 2ndary turbo (thus only 5psi towards redline).... Could be many thing. Pop the hood and take a good look around. Good chance is that you will see the problem if you know what to look for.
What to look for ? Read similar threads ;)

You're going to take out a loan to get a car that you dont know if it requires alot of mechanic work or not??? You should seriously take it to a shop to have it checked out or bring a friend along that knows about rotary engines. Before you regret what you did do those steps first.

I just want to know how you don't have money for a pre-inspection. Where will you get the money for
- sales tax
- registration fees
- insurance adjustment
etc?

$100-200 inspection with a good mechanic is nothing compared to sales tax.