Check Dale's write-up:

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=68&mnu=5

It's not specific for the Greddy, but the install will be just about the same.

You would be foolish to run 12 psi. on the stock ECU....but hey it's your car.

no the boost is set when you are actually tuning. Otherwise you may endup blowing up your car.

A'pexi's description of the power FC on their products page states that they have a boost control kit available. It uses the same solenoid as the AVC, but is controlled by the power FC.

Am i the only one that likes to set boost with the pfc, i dont have the boost control kit. I just play with the pri and sec setting. After playing with the settings, the boost comes on pretty quick and stays consistant. I have all the bolt ons with a small hi flow cat, a ported wastegate and 99 spec turbos. I think i run about .9 bar, its been a while since i have driven my fd.

I use my pfc but when i was unported with no emissions that wasn't enough. I'm happy with it even w/o the boost control kit, when i up the boost i'll probably upgrade the boost control. But that's a project for another day.

On another note, on cold nights and my boost set to .76kg/cm (10.8psi) i get about 75% on my injector duty cycle. I don't know that i would recommend going over 11psi on the stock fuel system.

I had a Blitz SBC-ID III installed when I first bought my car and so far I haven't had any problems with it. Its nice and tidy and will fit almost anywhere in the car. I placed it on top of my steering column taped up against the tachometer, so I can look down it without a problem. The boost response is pretty impressive when you get around to fiddling with the manual boost mode.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2823/oct14127ir.jpg

I'm with you Dave. My AVC-R is why my first motor popped. The lines got next to the mani and up, up, up the boost went on the dyno.

I used the XS dual stage manual and I loved it. I had a high (15psi) and low (12psi) setting. I hooked the switch up to a fog light switch and ran a LED light so I knew when it was on high. It worked great, I'd buy another one any day over an electronic BC.


The light:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/387f7d45.jpg

The manual BC:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/101_0129.jpg

So I want to run 13 psi some of the time. I'm going to get Steve Kan to tune the car. My mods are below:

DP, MP, CB, Intakes, Apexi FC, Greddy BOV, PFS SMIC, Profec B, Walbro FP, ported wastegate, air pump removal

Do I need the FPR and new injectors or would I be ok with what I've got. I plan on monitoring my injectors with the commander and upgrading when they get to 80%. Am I pushing my luck?

Thanks,
Jeremy

So how was this the AVC-R's fault your motor popped ?

This is what I am running and have been for about a year now. Works great!

_josh :)

It was on the car when I bought it. I assumed it was installed correctly and the wires were out of harms way. I was wrong...

In speaking with Steve (who has dynoed a bazillion rx-7s), he mentioned that he's seen quite a few MBCs fail on the dyno, leading to destroyed motors. EBCs, not so much. Something to think about.

Mmmm - how would a manual boost controller even fail? Beyond heat damage because of poor positioning, I can't even think of a realistic failure mode for my Hallman ball and spring controller, for example. Variable orifice type controllers are even simpler in operation.

I'm sorry but I'm having a hard time believing this.

I could see how that could happen - all you'd have to have is something (a plain steel ball?) catch, wedge, or corrode in place on the inside of a ball/spring controller to have it not allow the intended pressure through to the actuator. Or the adjuster screw could fall out and not send any pressure to the actuator. On a needle-valve type, something could plug the orifice and boost control would be lost. Also, if a hose pops off on either side of the controller, control would be lost since no pressure would get to the actuator (of course, that could happen with an electronic one, also).

I spent a lot of time when I made my ball/spring controllers trying to make sure things like that couldn't happen by smoothing all possible internal catch points, plus using ceramic balls and stainless steel springs that couldn't corrode.

So MBC failure could happen - but if you make and install it properly, it shouldn't.

Dave

Those are possible - but as you said probably only apply to poorly made MBCs. So I didn't waste $200 on two Hallman controllers, when I could have had two Home Depot ones for $20. :)

I'm still not sure I've seen a single post about an MBC causing an engine failure, and there are a trillion posts on this board complaining about engine failures.

Well, don't forget there are RX-7 owners out there who don't post on this board :).

I heard it straight from the horse's mouth. I don't know what else to tell ya.

Hell, between my father and I, we've seen three rx-7s blow engines on the dyno due to MBC failures and the boost soaring sky high. And we don't exactly attend dozens of dyno events. *shrug*

I stand corrected. One more thing to worry about. :)

Were these home made MBCs or mid to high end ones?

They were the el cheapo home made ones, I should have mentioned that earlier. Not trying to bag on those of you with the Madison Ave MBCs ;)

More thoughts on this subject - were the failures with needle-valve or ball-spring controllers?

Needle valve controllers still rely on the stock system (solenoid valves and ECU) to control the boost. If a solenoid stuck open that would cause the boost to sky-rocket. Also, if mods (improved air flow due to better intake or exhaust) were done on the car since the last time a needle-valve type controller was adjusted, or the maximum orifice in the controller was too small, and then the car was dynoed (very likely, since someone would be more likely to want their car dynoed if they had just changed something) the stock setup would not control the boost any better than it would have with the original pills, and boost could get out of control.

Dave

To satisfy my curiosity:
As I asked in my previous post - do you know if they were the needle-valve type, or ball-spring type?

Dave

doesn't sound like the MBC fault alone...where the hell is the fuel cut in these applications??

I improperly ran a WG line and it caught fire and my boost was about to soar...but FUEL CUT saved the day; XX.1psi over what I have set.

All three instances were a number of years ago. I believe there was at least one of each.

Dubulup---one was a turbo fb, one was a turbo rx-2, and the other was an FD. Apparently none of them had a boost/fuel cut.

Thanks.

Dave

What is responsible for cutting the fuel? The Boost Controller or the computer? Or is that a seperate component?

Thanks,
Jeremy