Battery relocation to the trunk
 

hi all,

I'm looking for some good write up for battery relocation to the trunk. I found a few old threads. They're a bit old and not reply-able.

one of them:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/battery-relocation-trunk-step-step-300933/.

but the pictures were long gone. And I'm sure there's tons of info in the last 6 years on this.

I'm looking for a good kit to buy. possible a fuse box for safety? and a few pictures. if anyone have done theirs, please share.

The kit I'm was looking at:

Attachment 712953


thanks.

Surprised you didn't find this one. Inside the thread is a link with complete write up and how to. Read later in the thread because it has been updated. . .
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ttery+location

PS. There doesn't seem to be a good kit available anywhere that meets my requirements. I want a full-sized (or almost full sized) battery that will go in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat without cutting the bottom half out of the compartment. The above link, while not a kit, accomplishes all of this and even lists exactly what parts are needed and where to buy them.

Build your own. You'll get better connectors, better cables, more maneuverability. I spent about 100$ on mine for all the parts, including a kill switch. You also don't have to drill any wholes.

This. Built my own as well

Sorry. . .just reread and see you want to move the battery to the trunk, not the compartment behind the seats. . .Oh well. . .

yes. I'd like to move to the trunk not the passenger storage. there's plenty like that as you pointed one out.

can anyone share a few pictures on builds? ;-)

thanks.

Looking to move the battery to the trunk as well, I have an imported FD and am stuck with rear seats.

moconnor's write-up is the win sauce.

http://www.stanford.edu/%7Esunid/battery/index.html

Seems like you don't want the rear seats...here's a solution.

Buy used rear side panels and compartments to replace your seats, then sell your seats and side panels to someone on the forum that wants them.

then you can do a battery relocation to the rear bin. :icon_tup:

I used this..... http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/

It worked out PERFECTLY!!

Some basic pics of mine
Yellow is my meth line. Red is my power wire. The whole that it goes in was already predrilled in the car but is filled with a little plastic cap.
Attachment 712958
Kill switch mounted in the top of the battery box hooked up to my Negative terminal.
Attachment 712959
Ground
Attachment 712960
Power runs back into where it ran when the battery was in the stock location. I am thinking about moving it so that it goes directly to the starter so you don't see the big red wire anymore.
Attachment 712961

I also have a 175a mega fuse hooked up to the positive end of my in the battery box.

Pictures?

90% of the work in relocating a battery is wiring, test fitting, and pulling and reinstalling interior panels. Whether the battery goes in the hatch area or the rear bins does not change the install that much.

I would avoid kits - they generally seem to be $70 of parts marked up to $150. Any kit that does not come with a breaker is purely an exercise in box packing and probably was not engineered and tested.

there is a simple way off doing it...all those how to's listed make it more complicated then it realy is....

i can show you how to do it with 30$ if you all ready have a battery...

my is in rear driver side bin but you can still use same steps and wire it in the trunk


let me know if you still need help with it and i will take some pic for you

Why not just post pictures and instructions here?

Coming at ya ;)

I deviated on a few parts on the install. The originator of the write-up utilized a distribution block for a carputer. I did not need this. I also devised my own method of mounting the 7 channel fuse block inside of the bin. I felt no need to make fancy platforms, I simply mounted the fuse block and cut a hole for the channeled wires to route to the interior. Overall this worked very well.

I will add that the fuse block worked very well. I used it to power all of my gauges individually on their own cercuit. I also utilized one of the channels to power on my relay for my fuel pump rewire.

I couldn't be happier with the results.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w..._1100631_n.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...2_990060_n.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w..._4356130_n.jpg

Could you post some pics, please?

ok autozone or carquest should have everthing you need

you will need battery cable
one red- length of your car
one black-short 2ft


ok this is where my baterry is located...or you can do it in the trunk... you can ground the batter to chassi in the trunk....
http://rocrotary.webs.com/-%20New%20Folder/IMG_0929.JPG



and you will run the read wire through like in the pic below...use rubber ring so that the wire dont rub on the chassi
http://rocrotary.webs.com/-%20New%20Folder/IMG_0930.JPG


and run it directly to + on the starter....
http://rocrotary.webs.com/-%20New%20Folder/IMG_0933.JPG


and then just attach the ground to the chassi like in the pic in the engine bay
http://rocrotary.webs.com/-%20New%20Folder/IMG_0934.JPG

and that would be all...30$

Thanks, this really helps.

This is exactly how not to do a relocation.

Running without a breaker and is bad enough, running the positive cable exposed under the chassis only marginally less bad, but topping it all off by routing the positive cable unprotected and unbreakered along a fuel line is where things really get in to :wallbash: territory.

I won't even mention the exposed positive area in the engine bay or the very poorly tied down battery.

Please post your set up and enlighten us.

Click on the word pwned.

if you know anything you wouldnt have asked for help :lol:

this way you dont need a breaker... breaker for what :scratch:

you know that you got open + and - inside your fuel tank on the fuel pump in the FUEL about 1/2" apart...WOW BOMMMM:fawk:

only fuel vapor will explode....fuel itself does not

i took the ruber cap of so you could see better....

i think you just got Breaker stuck in your head

you sound really anal man

this is simple clean way of doing it

zip tie is temporary until i get some more of them rubber clamps...

You are making no sense.

Only Jesus himself knows. I have always been tempted to pull all those silly fuse boxes out of my car too. What do they do? :scratch:

The word apart is sort of key here. The fact the line is fused (as is pretty much every frikken electrical circuit in the car) is pretty important too. What do fuses do again? :scratch:

Cars only explode in movies. Fuel does ignite though.

again yo dont make any sense...

there is no need to pull any fuse boxes....i never said that....or to install anything aditional....

there is nothing wrong with doing it this way... and this is probably the best way

and for fuel to ignite....there some how my fuel line needs to burst open at the same time
my + line there needs to get striped and ground at the same time and spark at that location...i dont think so...its heavy duty stuff....

and if you realy wanna install a breaker so bad you can do it on the + red line right after the battery...not need as OEM ones are still functional

from what I understand: if you run the positive wire from the trunk (or passenger storage) all the way to the front (let's say that's 6'). chances are if that 6' of wire got damaged (who know how) and touch your chassis, you got a short circuit. Hence, The fuse box is needed between your renew battery location and the 6' of wire.

you may got good wiring and luck and that scenario never happen. In my opinion, the circuit breaker is a piece of mind (like insurance).