AzEKnightz/Aftermarket solenoid rack installation questions
 

How are people routing vacuum lines aftermarket solenoids/AzEKnightz set?

The installation instructions for the AzEKnightz solenoids have you running a number of connections through the existing hardlines. Following the hardlines, it seems to me that you need to KEEP some if not all 4 of the solenoids you've replaced and their lines to keep the vacuum line routing intact. The stock solenoids are electrically unplugged but it seems like the ports of the solenoids still end up becoming essentially part of the vacuum line routing.

Originally, when I first installed the solenoids I followed the instructions exactly as provided. It worked and the turbos functioned perfectly but since then, I have moved to BNR stage 3s and in the process, I decided to "simplify" the vacuum routing according to the provided vacuum diagram below. The thought was to reduce the number of silicone lines and remove some of the replaced solenoids to clean everything up and prevent possible pinching of any vacuum lines. Unfortunately, since then, I've had some spotty secondary turbo function. My boost pattern is now more of a 10-4-8, with the 4-8 transition in the secondary taking a long time. Also, if I were to let off throttle during secondary boost (above 4500 RPM) boost drops to 0 completely and builds up very slowly again.
I've taken the UIM off and traced vacuum lines a number of times and even have another rats nets hardline set from a forum member just so I can reference trace how the hardlines route more easily off the car. I am positive I have the vacuum diagram correct and have bought a new set of the wastegate and pre-control solenoids (not yet installed) in a last ditch attempt to fix the twins.
Just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious with the vacuum diagram below or if I really should just put all the vacuum lines and solenoids back...

For those who aren't familiar, see the second screenshot for the 4 solenoids the aftermarket kit replaces from the rats nest.

Below is the "updated" vacuum diagram using the AzEknightz solenoids.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...20d7e39332.png

Replaced solenoids circled in red
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...aca6fd00d0.png

I just put the simplified sequential on my FD and there is not reason to keep the 4 stock solenoids if you replaced them with new ones. I also eliminated all of the emissions equipment on the car at the same time and put on block off plates, so for me the rats nest under the UIM was completely removed. In any case, the only hard lines the simplified sequential routing uses are the 5 lines next to Wastegate/Turbo Precontrol Solenoids. Did you check your actuators to see if they are sticking?

Your boost problem sounds like a turbo control problem, that's classic symptoms. There's a pressure and vacuum side for that system, one or both is not cooperating.

FYI DriftinJim sells a new solenoid setup that installs a lot cleaner and doesn't leave as much mess behind. I believe he's been selling them on Ebay.

Dale

@kelldog44 Thanks for the tip. Actually, I just realized I'm at a point where I can remove all my emissions equipment. I might opt to do that and run the simplified seq routing.

Did you happen to remove the ISC (BAC) and block that off as well? And when you did the block off plates, did you throw some gasket maker or anything on the plates themselves?

From banzai's kit I think I'll get rid of the EGR, ACV, Split Air and AWS systems while I'm eliminating the air pump. The double throttle I am tempted to keep

Just saw Jim's setup and I do love the way it's setup to be basically idiot proof which I could definitely do with.

Hopefully cleaning up some of the emissions stuff, replacing the two pre-control and wastegate solenoids and simplifying the vac line setups according to the simplified seq setup will resolve my issues.

I kept the ISC, from what I've read there is no point in removing it, just will cause a rougher idle. I removed everything else though, including the double throttle, Rob has a good write up on it. Figured since I was already in there, might as well just take the butterfly's out. I also did the coolant bypass on the TB since there is really no need to have it flowing through there. And mainly because the coolant hose below the TB was a PITA to get and pull off.

And yes to the gasket maker, I put Permatex Black on there because I had some on hand but I'm sure any gasket maker will do. I ended up having to JBWeld the ACV blockoff plate onto the UIM because the all of the studs were so soft they broke off no matter what I tried, took the blow torch to them and everything. But the JBWeld has held the ACV plate on there for ~500 miles with no issues so far.

Dale's spot on with the Turbo Control Actuator, its probably sticking. I would start there.

@kelldog44 Thanks for the info. Boost problems solved!
Dale was right, it was a control problem but the actuators were ok, I tested all 4 and they functioned fine. I replaced the green wastegate and precontrol solenoids and that seemed to have did the trick. I'm not sure it's a crispy 10-8-10 but past 4500 RPM the car gets a lot more violent which I love.

I went through the entire vacuum routing again and realized I had already moved to a simplified sequential setup, although emissions solenoids are still in place. I've finally got the idler and block off plates so very excited to clean up all those useless emissions stuff