Anyone need to replace their motor mounts?
I just finished putting my engine back in and decided to do the poor man's polyurethane motor mounts to replace my bad stock ones. If anyone is contemplating doing this, I highly recommend this mod. I definitely get more feedback from the engine, vibration and a throatier exhaust sound, but nothing annoying. Also with this mod there definitely is no need for a torque brace, the engine barely moves (the shift knob no longer looks like a spoon stuck in a bowl of jello). Anyways, the car feels tighter (and I like the new sounds and vibration). Can't beat new motor mounts for ~$70 (and a little bit of elbow grease).
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how do you do this poor man's version just fill the stock ones with polyurethane?
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throatier exhaust sound? wtf? it's motor mounts
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Originally posted by HobbeZ how do you do this poor man's version just fill the stock ones with polyurethane? |
Originally posted by 93BlackFD throatier exhaust sound? wtf? it's motor mounts |
Hardness
What hardness/mixture of poly did you use?
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Hmm.. Interesting. More info please! Pictures??
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interesting.... what tool do you use to cut the urethane?
i bought rotorsports racing engine mounts, and paid a nice premium for it. :( |
Gotham Racing has good deals on their mounts right now.
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I need new motor mounts too :(
I just checked prices :( :( :( (Dang is there anything inexpensive on this thing???) |
The polyurethane that I used is 80 shore A, 3000 psi (amber color). I used a compound mitre saw to cut the stuff, it sort of melts as you cut it and gets all over the saw so its fairly messy. I have the earlier style motor mounts with the aluminum driver side mount. This one is a little tricky because the mount has a protrusion that goes into the stock rubber insert. You could probably machine this protrusion down so that the mount has a flat surface, I just made a recess into the polyurethane puck that matched the protrusion on the mount its hard to explain, it makes sense if you can see it but I dont have any pictures. I cut a 2.1" puck for the pass. side, and a 2.3" puck for the driver side. Then I cut two 3/8" pucks to go on the bottom of the subframe. The 6" length rod from Mcm@ster was just enough. I used two 4" length bolts to bolt the whole sandwich together. I fed the bolts up from the bottom so that the least amount of bolt protrudes down from the subrame, and used thread locker on the nuts. Maybe I can take some pictures if I can get the camera working.
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Tight! I'd like to see pic's to. :)
Who's the guy that used hockey pucks? ...and how did those hold up? |
i got solid aluminum ones for $110 shipped :)
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