Another Simplified Sequential Thread
 

Hey Everyone please don't roast me too badly for starting yet another thread on this topic, however I found after reading through the 20+ threads on this, I just became more confused and un sure with what all is needed to be done and if its smart to do on a stock ECU to begin with.

So just to give everyone a idea of my set up right now, the car is mostly stock, its running on a stock ecu, has the stock twins and most everything else is stock. I do have a boost gauge and boost controller that came with the car along with a cat back and apexi power intake. and its a JDM import.

Also one thing to note is the whole reason I started this is b/c my ecu keeps getting triggered into a limp mode with the code 45 so i figured id change out the hoses while im under there.

So my questions is as follows:

1. What exactly all do you need to do the simplified sequential set up?
   1. I have bought a set of assorted vacuum lines in various sizes along with block off caps as well
   2. I have bought new solenoids incase - PN: N390-18-741 x 1, 1480-13-240A x 2, and N3A118741 x 1
2. Do I need to buy a block off kit?
   1. ive seen multiple posts where you delete the air pump, and the acv, along with a couple other parts. I have also been told that you should delete the I believe it was the idle control valve and speed control? if I plan to continue to use the power steering and A/C
3. While im in there I saw people recommending that I go ahead and delete the air pump, doesn't seem like a good idea from what I saw on the threads where you'd need a after market ECU for it.
4. Do you need a tune/aftermarket ecu if you do go forward with the simplified set up?

I do have a haltech 2500 with the pnp adapter sitting on the side. My thought was just to get the car to run right on the stock ECU first and then go and slap in a new ecu once the car is running otherwise im afraid that I wont be able to pinpoint what the actual issue could be.

First off, a code 45 won't be a limp mode or anything. The car will drive fine, the ECU isn't restricting anything.

45 is Charge Control Solenoid, solenoid F in the diagram -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#&gid=1&pid=1

The ECU is OLD SCHOOL, it's SUPER dumb. That solenoid has a power wire going to it and a wire that goes back to the ECU. The solenoid has resistance. If the resistance is high or low the ECU throws a code. That's it. It doesn't know if the vacuum lines are hooked up right to it, if the actual charge control is doing anything, nothing.

The shop manual also has troubleshooting for each code. For that you either have a bad solenoid or the wiring to the solenoid is bad. That's it.

Answers to questions -

1. I would hold off on doing simplified sequential. The good thing with having it stock is you can use the vacuum diagram, compare it, and know everything is right. If you start removing stuff you will most likely just make more problems.
2. To do simplified sequential you do need block off plates. Basically you are just removing emissions stuff. ACV, EGR, split air, all that has to have a block off plate.
3. You can delete the air pump with a stock ECU but you will. hate life. The car will be jerky on/off throttle and rough idle. Unplug the connector to the air pump and go for a drive. I had my air pump fuse blow back in the day and I thought my car was big time broken.
4. You don't need to tune for simplified sequential, it doesn't do anything that makes more power or increases airflow, just gets stuff out of the way.

I would hold off on getting the Haltech installed until you have things running right. If you can't fix this at this point you'll have even more problems with the Haltech. Also I don't know if that model will run the sequential system properly - from what I gather that's actually not too common for someone to run the sequential twins with a Haltech. Most go PowerFC with twins.

Also a thread on code 45 -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...there-1002575/

Dale

thanks for the clarification dale I’ll stay away from the simplification for now just to get the car running right. And ofcourse after that is when I’d do anything with the haltech no doubt about it.

So I think we spoke back around the time of dgrr if You’re the same dale I met out there haha. Either way this is branching off of the issue I was facing around that time where the car randomly shut off on it and then went to not starting at all. I was able to get the car running and able to get it startEd by putting a jumper in where the green fuel pump relay goes in by the battery however the car would then stutter going over like 20% throttle I’d say. However when is reset the ecu the stutter goes away the car goes into boost perfectly and drives they way you would expect it to.

So if the 45 code wouldn’t do that while I’m in there I’ll replace the temp sensor but why else would the car be going into limp mode then?

I’m only saying it’s going into limp mode since after the ecu reset the car ran and drove fine.

Yep, that was me :)

When you say "reset the ecu" how are you doing that?

I don't think you are in ECU limp mode per se, just something isn't running right on the car. I also wouldn't just randomly replace a temp sensor unless you know it's at fault.

Dale

Haha awesome well hello again.

when I say reset the ecu I mean I disconnect the ground from then battery holding down the brake pedal in the car for like 30 seconds give or take and then reconnecting the battery.

once I did that the car ran again without an issue. Even drove it like 15-20 minutes down the road and back. However after sitting all night it came back. Given this is after placing a jumper where the main relay for the fuel pump by the battery was placed.


the reason I was saying the temp sensor is from all the searching on the forums a lot of people mentioned that caused an issue too. But I can hold off on that as well.

First off, start with figuring out that error code 45. That's probably not why the car runs weird but if the car is waving a flag in your face saying something is wrong fix that first then go forward.

Also how are you checking codes? I know RHD cars are weird to check codes on since they don't have a check engine light.

I want to be certain you are interpreting the code right - it should be 4 long flashes, 5 fast flashes, then a substantial pause, then it should do the code again.

Dale

So quick update with the car. Long post alert! :D

This past week and I guess weekend I went through the whole car again. checked most everything that you would check when taking off the UIM and went through and replaced as many vacuum lines with fresh silicone ones as you would bother to do while you are in there. I also replaced the charge control solenoid which i was pointed towards with the code 45.

I am checking the code by using the diagnostic box with a resistor attached to an led and jumping a few spots on it to let the engine codes blink away and I recorded them so I am certain that the code 45 is correct :) I can add to the write ups on how to do that but there are plenty of posts on the forum here to help decipher that puzzle.

However once that was done. I did a oil change since this oils been sitting in the car since DGRR, after which reset the ecu and took it down to a friends place out here. Let it sit for maybe 45 minutes? when I started it the car was back in a "limp mode" or wouldnt go into boost. I reset it a couple more times just to be safe and ofcourse it went back into boost and no issues.

I took it home at that point where I drove more spiritedly and got it up to 7k rpm 3-4 times after which I figured the codes would register back to the memory in the ecu and I could pull the codes. Though to my surprise no codes! so confused as could be I called it a day went back to start it this past Sunday started up and went into boost all 3 times I did start it up and drove it.

Today tested it again same thing no issues got into boost drove it for about 20 minutes stoped turned off the car for another 20 minutes. Started it back up again no issues and brought it back home...

So im not saying my issue is resolved however so far so good!