all the unflooding method failed..damm
 

after microtech and single turbo installed my car refused to start.
I checked fuel and spark and everything looks fine.
I think it's flooed since I move the car short distance last time.
I went through all the possible deflooding method but still no success.
it' just about to start with some smoke but not really turns over.
it's pretty shame since I'm a auto mechanic for about 15 years and can't start my own car.
well I guess I have to tow it to my shop and try more deflooding.

anyway which is best thing to put to recover compression?
everybody says different stuff ATF,engine oil,WD-40,washer fluid,alchol....etc..

waht is most effective stuff to recover the compression?
I tried engine oil and WD-40 .

I've used MMO with good success.

i would check the plugs again, make sure there not fuel soaked. have you tried starting it in reverse instead of second gear?

I haven't tried pop start yet..
my drive way is very steep if I fail to start I can't push..
well I'm gona tow to my shop and use compressed air and parts cleaner to clean
more standing gas and try to start again.

thanks..

im assuming you tried to hold the pedal down while starting it ? I know its part of the process but I have had my manual flood before.

The white smoke doesn't quite add up, though. I've never had white smoke after an unflood, but doesn't necessarily mean it is a bad thing.

My best results have come from a complete unflood,, i remove and dry the plugs by cooking them on a gas burner, then remove the EGI fuse crank over the engine for a good 20 seconds (kicks out all the fuel and crud out the spark plug holes) then i use a small oil bottle and either squirt a small amount of oil or automatic trans oil into the bottom 2 spark plug holes, then i crank the engine manually with a socket on the alternator nut, replace spark plugs ,leads and EGI fuse,,,, and fire away its never failed yet..

I wonder if something went awry with the Microtech/single installation?
As you say, being a mechanic for all those years, I am sure you have seen some severely flooded engines in the past.
Frankly, I have NEVER had a rotary that I couldn't get unflooded by simply holding the pedal to the floor. However, that only works with a stock ECU (cuts the fuel).

So you've tried "all" of them huh?? How about this, screw the "unflooding" part and just throw in a new set of plugs and pull-start the bitch. :bigthumb:

-J

new plugs and a little tranny fluid in the chambers after cycling. i promise you it will start then.

new plugs and charge the battery is usually what my car needs. doesn't fail

:icon_tup:

thats what i did...started up first try

My 7 flooded badly recently and I dont know why?? But pulling the EGI fuse and cranking the motor for 10 secs with my foot to the floor (twice) and then puttinbg the EGI fuse back in the motor and using a good push start sorted it out!!

Bye the way...my 7 sounded like shit before i did the above! No compression sound just wheez, wheez wheez.

After doing the EGI pull thing, the car made a feeble compression sound and a whole lot of pushing and cranking got it going!!

Good luck!! Ive been that guy and its all part of the fun, hopefully!!

Still have the same plugs in now and no problems!!!! BTW it will smoke like a motherfucker when u get it going but it just needs a good run!

I've seen many flooded engine before but I never seen rotary flooded for the piston engine brake cleaner is the best I used to have customer with carbed rolse royce and it was flooding all the time and I always put some brake cleaner and blow with shop air and it started right up..

I'm thinking about MT install but when you have gas and spark and compression
it gotta start..

anyway I gonna try to pull start next week after tow it to my shop..

I didn't feel this bad when I blew the engine last time but after all this work and having flooded engine make me feel so stupid..

REALLY????:scratch: Rotaries flood way way easier than piston engines do.... In a piston engine if it floods you can actually just let it sit for a day or so and the problem will solve itself! This is do to the the pistons having a certain amount of "blowby" allowence (end gap) and having a crank case as a "catch can". Rotaries have a "catch can" too.... it's called the bottom of the rotor housing.:lol: :lol:

And another thing, all these people who are saying to put "trans fluid" etc. are nuts.... Do you know what "flooding" means?? IT MEANS THERE IS TO MUCH FLUID ON THE PLUGS AND IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER TO HAVE IGNITION. So don't add to it :wallbash:


-J

when you pull the plugs and pull the fuses and crank the engine, all the gas and fluids come spewing out of the plug chambers. Thus, it actually lowers the compression (in lots of cases, too low for the engine to fire back up). It will not start up again until it has high enough compression. the tranny fluid solves this problem. carb cleaner, brake cleaner.. it all works just as well.

this procedure has been done a billion times and doesn't hurt anything.

According to this explanation, which is the first I've ever heard that makes simple sense, it's too much gasoline washing away the oil and reducing compression.

So you need to remove the gasoline first, then add oil to restore compression.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...55#post8030155

A little bit off topic, but...
 

In the early years of rotary engines, there was a reservoir of engine antifreeze (100% A-F, no water) that was used to inject into the intake for (very) cold conditions on start-up.

Its purpose was two-fold:
1. to increase compression so the engine could more easily start. and
2. to prevent the apex seals from freezing retracted into the rotors (resulting in no compression) due to the combustion water generated in the first few combustions freezing them in place before the rotors warmed up.

So, as DaveG said, lack of compression is a big part of not being able to start a rotary, whatever the cause.

Mine is very hard starting too but one way I tried to remedy the flooding is to move the plugs back from the chamber walls a bit by using non-foulers. I got them from Advance Auto Parts. When I add a little ATF down the vacuum tubes on the UIM, while having it connected by jumper cable to my other car, It definitely seems to work!!

Early days? My '86 FC had this.

Although I agree that low compression is a big factor in non-starts due to flooding, the fact that the trapped gas keeps the plugs wet (and non-firing) is the other.

I've used the propane torch plug-drying technique a number of times on a Honda 3-wheeler (used to push my racecar around in the paddock) that doesn't like to start cold and floods easily. The other thing that the torch method does that other plug-drying techniques don't, is to leave the plug warm, so gas doesn't condense on it quite so easily when starting a flooded engine.

:) I was saying "early" because my FB had it... I didn't know the FC's still did...

Dave

Not to threadjack but...I wonder if the RX-2 and RX-3 had the glycol injection? :scratch:

I've heard this before and I'm not buying it. Maybe on an engine thats been sitting up for a while and hasn't been in motion, but not a good runing one.

In that case let me ask you this: If you had a good running engine with 100psi on all faces, do you really think "cylinder washing" would cause the comperssion to drop 30, 40 or even 50psi to get a no start condition?? :scratch:

I'm not trying to arguing with you, just asking a question :)

-J

IMO, if the engine had marginal compression before flooding, then, yes; on your good-running 100-psi compression engine, then, no.

Dave

I didn't say you'd have completely insufficient compression. But adding some oil and turning it over will improve it. Like DaveW said in the other thread, wetted plugs also play a role.