Air pump removal advice needed
 

Im getting ready to remove my air pump system and I still want to retain my sequential setup. I already have my Pineapple Idler pulley kit, aftermarket pulley and block off plate kits from Banzai, fast reacting IAT sensor and a Power FC. I haven't started the process yet nor have I ever done it but I'm wondering what components (i.e. ACV, EGR, AWS, etc) can be eliminated and which ones need to stay in order for my car to continue running right. My friend removed just his air pump a while back, didn't install any block off plates and his car idle'd funny when we started it up after the removal. I'm trying to avoid the same problem he had so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Do u understand what the air pump is for?

Yea it's just for emissions purposes.

I should've have stated that the reason I bought the block off plate is because I was reading in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...y-kit-1048616/ and saw that a forum member states (Post #12) that a block off plate for the split air bypass is needed or else the motor idles and runs funny. So I went ahead and bought the block off plate kit since I plan to do the single turbo conversion in the future anyway.

Well, u need the air pump for the cat and u need the cat if u plan to pass emissions. If it's going to be a track car, have fun.

I don't need to pass emissions testing, and I don't have any OEM cats on my car.

If you're not worried about emissions, you can remove all the associated components with the PFC and not worry about a CEL. If your friend removed the AP on the stock ECU that would explain a lumpy idle and even some hesitation when adding throttle. BTW, you can also remove double-throttle too (see signature). Ideally the block-off plates would be installed and the associated vacuum lines and connectors removed from the harness. But the latter would probably best be put off unless/until the engine is pulled for anything major.
I understand that you've removed the cats, but even without the airpump, the better high-flow cats like BONEZ don't seem to be bothered at all.

Ok thanks for clearing that up for me. Once I delete all the emissions components and related vacuum lines, will leaving the connectors unconnected cause any issues? As you stated, I don't want to mess with the harness unless the motor has to come out.

No, but my occasional OCD would probably cause me to try to keep moisture/dirt out of them using electrical or silicone fusion tape.

When the air pump is removed, the O2 Feedback Switch HAS TO BE TURNED OFF FOR PROPER IDLE! Then you have to retune idle fuel for best lean smooth idle.

I'm assuming that is done through the Power FC? I apologize for asking and sounding like a newbie but I've never messed with a PFC.

Settings 1. Read the PFC manual. If you do not have it, download it.
Use the PFC sub forum.
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Now the reason to do it. The engine only idles smoothly when running rich. But it is too rich
as compared to the needed stoich of 14.7. Thus the air pump leans it out close to 14.7.
O2 FB controls fuel by reading the O2 sensor voltage and adjusting fuel.

When you remove the air pump, the AFR is now very rich and the ECU removes fuel to try to get to 14.7. Leanness happens with a bad idle.