Air Pump full time?
 

Is there a way get the air pump to run all the time. I need to do this to get my car through emissions. I looked through the wiring diagrams and couldn't find a section that included the air pump. Is there some way ground something or provide power so that the clutch is always engaged but the car doesn't drop in to limp home mode. Thanks in advance.

I don't see why you would want the airpump to always be on?

The airpump is always on under 3K RPM and that's where they will check your for emissions.

The plug to the airpump is only 2 wires. I'm not sure if it sends a ground or 12V but i'm sure it's not hard to rig it to make it run full time if you wish.

Danny

I have the air hose unpluged right now and I can hear when it goes on and off. It doesn't seem to come on at idle to I need to get it going all the time. I just need to get it through emissions so that I can isure it and fix the real underlying problem over the next week.

I am thinking I canjust rmove the connecter and put power to one of the pins and ground to the other I just hve to figure out which, but what resistance should the resistor be that I connect to the ecu side of the plug?

Unless you are having some sort of malfunction, the air pump runs from idle to 3250 rpm. Period. You don't have to do anything to it.

anyone know the type of resistor I need

you need to read what people are telling you. not try to figure out what type a resistor. ;) if it is not on, there is a problem with it.

I don't imagine the bearings on the airpump will take much more than 3250rpms. Besides that, the ACV will probably vent the pressure above that speed anyways. There are other, more possible, ways of passings smog exams. For example, the denatured alcohol trick or a simple bribe.

The bearings are not rpm limited. It has to do with what oxygen is needed to generate the catalyst burn of the unburned fuel in the catalytic converters. Above 3250rpm, the engine's burn more efficiently leaving very little unburned hydrocarbons (under stock conditions) to need the 02.

Tim

Ok, well as you may or may not know, hear in BC they take our cars through a simulated driving test, taking the car to a number of different speeds. As far as I can tell the car's emissions seem to when the car is in neutral/idle, and when it is coasting.
Fearing that my acv may be screwed I just hooked the air pump directly to the cat. This is a brand new cat by the way. After I failed, to make sure I didn't burn the cat up, I disconnected the hose going to the cat. Now I can hear the pump blow air into the engine compartment as I drive. Once the car is warm the air pump turns off when the car is decelerating in gear, at idle, and above 3000rmp. Now I know that this means my air pump or my electrical system is screwed, but I have 3 days left to fix the problem before my insurance expires.
The first thing I was going to try was to get the air pump to work buy triggering it through the connector and running a resistor to the ECU side of the harness. If this doesn't work I will grab an air pump from one of my first or second gens and trade pulleys and run it straight to the cat.
This is a short term set up just to pass emissions and then I will reconnect the air pump to my ACV. So in any case I need to know what type of resistor to use.
I put the car on a gas analyzer after it failed and the emissions are bad at idle and the clean up really good as the car revs up and the air pump comes on.

AdamP,

What the guys are telling you is that you are going to more trouble than it's worth. There isn't that much to the operation of the air pump. If it's coming on sometimes but not others, it's most likely failing. Just replace it. I purchased a used one a while back for around $50 on http://www.thepartstrader.com for when/if mine fails.

However, to get you past emissions, there are MANY products on the market you can put into your gas tank to get you past. As JONSKI mention, denatured alcohol:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=166879

Why don't you mesure the resistance on your air pump.

resistor has to have same resistance like air pump.
I think that's the Idea. so ECU think air pump is still there.

but may be you need high watt resistor tho.

If the ACV on your third gen is anything like on a second gen, then the airpump air is sent to the exhaust ports when at idle....constantly, as it should. That's done to assure that the catalytic conveter gets a lean mixture prior to entering the cat. A RICH mixture results in early failure of the cat. When driving at a steady speed this air isn't needed because the 02 sensor and ECU have the mixuture at 14.7afr, give or take.

What your hearing when you drive, is the airpumps ACV *switching*. It cuts the air to the exhaust ports and either dumps it overboard or sends it to the split air pipe depending on conditions.

EDIT: I just looked at a manual online called 93 SERVICE HIGHLIGHTS, and on page F-16 it shows the functions of the Switching and Relief solenoids that CONTROL the ACV. You can readily see why you hear the coming and going of the ACV/airpump air if you read it.