AEM 4 channel ignition???
 

I am running an LTX8S 4 bosch coils and a ported motor and 40r kit from aspec. And fuel and etc.....

Is this ignition system any good??? I need to buy one tomorrow, so let me know your guys thoughts??

Thanks

Edan

Everything I've heard and been told says it is. I just ordered one myself from them.

Thats wha I am going with. The only problem is it doesn't say HKS on it. Bummer

Well I guess I am going to go with it too... It would be nice if it said HKS on it. Your right. I will probably just buy an HKS sticker and but it on it.

Ok, what's so great about the twin power over the AEM then? Other than it being $200 more. If you want the HKS, why not save up and get it...it is only $200.

The guys at Gotham recomment the AEM over the HKS...The advantage of the HKS is that it's plug and play (well, after you buy the FD adaptable harness) The AEM from what i understand (could be wrong) is that you can control the leading and trailing plugs independently...So it has a bit more options that than the HKS but requires hard wiring / soldering and such. It's cheaper than the HKS by a couple hundred but if you have a shop install it for you, by the time you are done you end up paying the same price as the HKS after they tack on labor. I will need to upgrade my ignition to run more than 15psi boost on my single setup and will more than likely choose the AEM becuase that's what Steve Kan recommends...If you need one check out www.GothamRacing.com I know they have pretty competitive pricing.

Do a search on the AEM unit. Seems to have some bugs right now and cuts out while your driving. 93Blackfd (Brian) and jspecracer7 both had their unit just quit working while they were driving and left them stranded.

Tim

We have installed a bunch of AEM's. Make sure you shield the wires really well. We have also had a couple of them go bad and a couple cut out while people are driving, but overall they are a nice unit.


Jason

I think Garfinkle used the AEM and he also had issues.. I have HKS and I'm very happy with my amp..

Jason is right about shielding the wires, I had the same issue when we put a B&M unit on a car, not saying that is the problem on all of these though.

From what I understand the Twin Power is not an amp, it is a double sparker. I am having issues running aviation fuel and fouling out plugs badly with the twin power. It may be fine for lightly modded cars, but not high boost /race gas situations. At least not for me.

Ive got the AEM and I love it, compared to my freinds Jacobs Pro Pak the AEM is far better, smoother throttle tip in, better idle, no break up under high boost/rpm, feels more powerful, my car even sounded healthier after installing it. It took me a few hours to install but the over all effectiveness of it is amazing, one of the best mods Ive done for my car...

What is the best method for sheilding the wires? Where is the best place to mount it, maybe not in the engine bay? Can it be mounted in the trunk? Maybe they are failing due to the haet? Just a thought...

Does anyone have the instructions for installing it? I want to see if I am up to the task or not.

My guess is they are failing from the heat, it does get really hot. You could mount it out of the engine bay and just run the wiring thru the firewall.

Jason

well aem sounds nice but the hks is proven and bolts right in. I dont want to buy a mod that i have to worry about failing. A mod is an upgrade not a weak link----buy the hks.

well the HKS won't plug right in if you have a Microtech or a Haltech or a Modified car.... not just bolt ons.......

I do. I'll post the link tonight when I get home unless someone beats me to it.

http://railgun69.homeip.net/AEM%20CD...structions.pdf

Right click, save as. On page 13 (irony?)

http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=5974

And yes, unfortunately you have to register.

I can't get it :( right click no workie...

Sorry...having technical issues here...should be up now.

Ya, my AEM failed me about 100 meters from my driveway :( Luckily I made a bypass cable just in case (with my luck...I need shit like this) Put the bypass cable in and *presto* Fired right back up. I put the AEM at the very front of my car, double sticky taped to my FMIC.

How would you guys recommend "shielding" the cable? Are we talking about shielding as in heat? Or shielding as in RF interference?

Did AEM Replace it? Just curious what the outcome was? I also would like to know what Jason means by sheilding the wires???

I can't imagine that heat would affect it so much. With the type of device that it is, I'd imagine from RFI. I think that you'll want to shield it that way as it may produce a lot of it. It is an amp after all.

Happened just last week. It ran flawlessly before. Idled sooooo smooth. I threw the bypass cable in and it ran but it was definitely rougher.

damn....now i am definately going hks...i am not going to deal with this crap for a $200 difference!

Mine just came in. I'll keep everyone posted on any issues. Hey jspecracer7, so the deal is that you have to splice the unit in. Did you make a something like a quick disconnect harness for it and if so, I assume that you made a harness (your jumper) to work as described when the unit failed? If so, what kind of ends did you use?

Thanks!

Got it! thanks.

I just noticed mine was pretty feakin hot after driving for awhile on a really hot day, I mounted mine over by the master cylinder. I thought about moving it after that but I guess im not really too concerned with it, Its probably gonna get hot no matter where it is...

How receptive is this company to issues and suggestions? If there seems to be a trend with heat related failures, perhaps we can push the issue to them to improve the product. An integrated cooling fan? Better heatsinks? Something along those lines. I for one will try to mount a fan on it (not permenantly as not to void the warranty) to prevent any issues. Not too hard to throw a 12V PC fan on it.

I may be missing it, but I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the ignition system. Which section of the manual is it?

I'm trying to wire in the AEM amp, but don't have a clue where to begin.

In the instructions there is a rotary specific diagram, its really not too bad

Yeah, I know that. I posted that above, but it doesn't indicate what wire from the ignitor is the #1/#2 lead and trail, ect trigger. I suppose I could trace from the coils, but since I'm splicing right at the ignitor, as I'm sure most everyone else is, it would be easier to do it that way.

Aem customer service is great when you can reach them. Im on my 3rd ignition box the first lasted a month. and the other 2 havent fired up or stayed running long???? My car has been on stock ign for a month now, it sucks. misfires when I hit 14psi and anythin over 6k.
Im fixn to try a different coil and go from there. And the bad thing is that I had a HKS twin power and changed to AEM?!?!?!? Also changed my techedge wbo2 for the aem wideband and cant get it to datalog with the datalogit?!?!?!?!? dammit man. Makes me think twice about getting the AEM EMS

Hey Railgun69 I used the harness to the coil packs. You can disconnect from the car easy just unplug from the coils and just follow it down a little and another connector. Some have a ground in that little harness too. There is a upgraded coil harness from mazda that doesnt have a ground. Just remember the color of connector and do one wire at a time.