99 JDM bumper skin / US rebar trimming - a little help please
 

All

Spent some time searching but most of the build threads are older and the pics seem to be long gone.

I have trimmed the rebar adequately for turn signal housings, 98% sure I have plenty of clearance. My question is, do you need to do any trimming of the rebar in the license plate area? The reason I am asking is, as I am trying to fit up the skin I seem to be getting some interference in the center. And some resistance to getting the skin lined up with the edge of the hood. I have not transferred any of the aluminum brackets over from the old bumper just yet, going to leave that to the body shop when I drop it off. Also, can I leave the 93-95 Styrofoam in place on top of the rebar as well?

Any one have an recent pics of what they needed to trim?

The $20 harbor freight body saw I bought worked okay. I am sure a more expensive tool could have worked better. I just held my shop vac nozzle next to it as I cut. Not that much to cleanup that way.

Thanks as always

I have a plate less 99 bumper, and did not require any trimming in the plate area. I left the Styrofoam in place on my car. It fit well for me. The only issue I have is the lack of a proper support for the lower part of the center opening. I intend to make a brace when I take the bumper back off to remove the original lower brace.

Vince

On the stock bumper anyway, that styrofoam piece is the 100% necessary to support the bumper or over time it will warp and sag.

Functionally the entire point of the 99 bumper was to allow air to be sucked in from behind the licence plate holder into the intake, so IMO be sure to cut a hole for the air to flow and get a '99 style intake, it is a night and day difference.

I figured the styrofoam wasn't an issue, but I wanted to ask anyway. I have a PFS SMIC and airbox, but I think I will open up behind the license plate anyway. It prob can't hurt.

I must have missed something, it was late in the day. I need to clean up the tools and re-group.

As far as I can tell I had two issues going on. I needed to trim the rebar just a little more on the drivers side, the turn signal area still had some interference. Once I knew that was good to go, it still wouldn't really line up, esp where it meets the hood. So I pulled the styrofoam out and that pretty much solved it. I guess I have two choices, leave it out, or attempt to shave it down until it works and/or supports the skin.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...570d25b7e2.jpg

What a timely thread. I am trying to install my 99Spec as well.

Just out of curiosity, how long does it usually take to get the front bumper off? I have never done it or seen it done. Trying to budget my time.

Did you remove the headlight trim pieces to gain access to the nut that goes on the top stud of the three studs on the bumper cover?

Did old hardware transfer over to the new cover? Did you have to buy any new hardware?

Realize I am a novice at best. Have only owned my FD for 2.5 years.

It took me maybe 1-2 hours. The hardest part was getting all of those phillips head plastic retainers out of the fender liners. I pulled mine all the way out instead of just loosening the front 1/3 like I have seen mentioned in other threads. The only rusted bolts I ended up having were on the bumper lip. Luckily all the other smaller hardware in the upper front fender area came right off. You need to pull the trim on the headlights and it helps to have your battery still connected to raise and lower them. I was going by trial and error, finding each clip or bolt that was still hanging on as I went. The brake ducts on each side have retainers to the tow hook/front frame rail. Then along the front there are 3 or 4 more. Once you have the bumper off, unless you have another set of the alum brackets that are riveted to the old bumper, all of that is going to need to be transferred. I am going to leave that to the body shop for now, because it looks like the original bumper skin was painted before riveted that hardware on.

I plan on buying new plastic retainers, fresh M6 hardware and u-nuts etc. I have a McMaster Carr local to me that I found and there are good deals on Amazon as well.

Will post updates here as I go if that will help others.

Thanks for the response.

If you can please take photos. I prolly won't touch mine for another two months.

​​​​I bought the 99spec rebar, lips, and the under tray.

Anyone know the rivet size?? Is the aluminum frame something I can buy separately?

Mostly the 92-93 bumpers deform like that. It doesn't seem to happen to 94+ cars, it doesn't ever happen to 99 spec cars, and it has nothing to do with the styrofoam.

It will certainly be more straight forward with the correct rebar for sure.

The main piece in the middle, facia retainer is $125. I didn't check all the other pieces. Email Ray Crowe and see where his prices are I guess. Will try and get some other pics up soon.


Jim Ellis online parts

1993 Mazda RX-7 FRONT BUMPER

I will go back and run through it again, with and without the styrofoam. I see no reason to force it to conform (and possibly distort in the future). Though I will leave it up the body shop once they transfer the brackets over to the new skin to figure out the best approach.

Thanks for the link. I have a bone stock 94 with 37K miles. I will be reusing a lot of the old HW and they are in pretty good shape.

Just wondering if I need to buy something specific to 99 spec bumper cover.

Got the brake cooler ducts and lips from JP..

Anything else?

Here are some more photos of it apart, so you get an idea of what you are dealing with.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...38a56b97ea.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5e0dedcecf.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f50a2bc9bc.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d22f7ac87.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d17ff89a29.jpg

Thank you so much!!! How did you remove the top nut by the headlight?

you dont need the rebar, it works fine. 2nd 99 spec FD and no issues. undertray or a splitter keeps the bumper forward and up. The only benefit of the rebar is to help a little on a minor fender bender, but you're basically screwed anyhow if you wreck.

Thanks for that info. I hadn't picked up the 99 undertray yet but I did notice and read that the holes wouldn't line up if trying to reuse the US one. It did seem like it might have been physically shorter but then I got sidetracked for the last few weeks.

With a wrench. :)

Maybe a 1/4" drive socket, but I think its easier with the gearwrench ratcheting box-end.

You can make it work with the 93, might just be slightly off. I made it fit just fine, don't even recall modifying it, a few zip ties were needed in the rear, because the radiator was sitting upright and pushed down the tray which shorted the back end.

Its up to you but personally wouldn't want to spend extra dollars for rebar or undertray that are specific. Tossed the 93 rebar instead of trimming


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f4f926eb4.png

No rebar, 93 undertray, never sagged had it on there for 3 years

Thanks again, great feedback. Had no plans to buy the 99 rebar, still considering the undertray and brake ducts just to ensure proper alignment.

So I am looking at put on a 99 spec OEM front bumper cover onto my 94 JDM fd, is there a difference on the rebar from the 94 efini(jdm) and the 99 spec or is there just a difference between the JDM and the USDM?

Yes there is a difference. 99 spec has different marker lights than pre-99 regardless of LHD vs RHD. You just need to do some trimming.