|
93 rats nest delete
just a ? can anyone tell me what all sensors I can remove from under my intake id like to do away with my rats nest and if anyone knows what sensors I are to keep.im keeping my engine with stock twins and factory ecu any info will help thanks
|
I think you mean solenoids rather than sensors. People on the forum usually call this "simplified sequential". You're basically removing all the emission related solenoids and vacuum lines. If you do a search for "simplified sequential" you will find a ton of info:
RX7Club.com - Search Results |
Why do you want to delete all of these things? If it ain't broke don't fix it.
|
Originally Posted by Spalato
(Post 11994990)
I think you mean solenoids rather than sensors. People on the forum usually call this "simplified sequential". You're basically removing all the emission related solenoids and vacuum lines. If you do a search for "simplified sequential" you will find a ton of info:
RX7Club.com - Search Results |
If you just start deleting solenoids you will get a check engine light. Some have put resistors in place of the solenoids to trick the ecu but the whole thing is a waste of time. I'd leave the stuff alone until you are ready to go with a standalone ecu and eliminate things properly.
|
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
(Post 11995357)
If you just start deleting solenoids you will get a check engine light. Some have put resistors in place of the solenoids to trick the ecu but the whole thing is a waste of time. I'd leave the stuff alone until you are ready to go with a standalone ecu and eliminate things properly.
|
For now I'd do the basic reliability mods:
Replace the vacuum hoses with high quality silicone. I use the stuff from boostcontroller.com. Replace the fuel pulsation damper. The stock ones fail and leak, causing fires. Get rid of the pre-cat and add a downpipe. This will help get heat out of the motor and you will pick up some hp. Upgrade to an aluminum radiator. Mishimoto fits best with the stock setup. Koyo makes a slighly better radiator but takes more work to fit. Eliminate the AST. They are not needed. Or at least get a metal one. Install a FC thermoswitch so the fans come on sooner, allowing the car to run cooler. Aside from that basic maintenance like fresh green 50/50 coolant every season, trans and diff fluid every year. Check spark plugs at least every other oil change. |
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
(Post 11995749)
For now I'd do the basic reliability mods:
Replace the vacuum hoses with high quality silicone. I use the stuff from boostcontroller.com. Replace the fuel pulsation damper. The stock ones fail and leak, causing fires. Get rid of the pre-cat and add a downpipe. This will help get heat out of the motor and you will pick up some hp. Upgrade to an aluminum radiator. Mishimoto fits best with the stock setup. Koyo makes a slighly better radiator but takes more work to fit. Eliminate the AST. They are not needed. Or at least get a metal one. Install a FC thermoswitch so the fans come on sooner, allowing the car to run cooler. Aside from that basic maintenance like fresh green 50/50 coolant every season, trans and diff fluid every year. Check spark plugs at least every other oil change. |
Removing the baked-on hard OEM rubber vacuum hoses is not an easy job, especially if you don't want to replace the solenoids after you've broken the nipples trying to remove the hose. If your boost pattern and idle are good, IMO leave then alone until going with the standalone and simplifying everything properly as mentioned above.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:33 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands