50k miles. . . blown?
 

There's an FD I'm looking at with 50k miles on it, and I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to do a compression test. What is the likelihood of the motor being blown at this mileage? (It's a manual with Greddy Exhaust.) The vibes I get from the owner signal to me that the car is in great shape, but you can never tell.

I might do the test anyway, but of course the guy might be really suspicious of some dude moving around spark plugs on his car. If you were selling an Rx-7, how would you go about responding to my "Could you get the compression checked on this?"

Thanks

P.S. . . Is there anything on the Rx-7 that goes-out on average at around 50k?

If I were selling I would say "You'd be crazy NOT to do a compression check on the car"... if he has anything to hide you'll find out about it.

If you offend him then too bad... it's your money.

I purchased mine at around 44k miles on it (about 4 years ago) and unfortunately it had a coolant O-ring failure already. Wish I would have known then what I know now.

An unkept FD could have problems at about any mileage.

Alright: next question-

I have a standard/piston compression checker. Apparently this can work on the rotary provided some changes are made to the device. Is there anywhere online with detailed instructions on compression checking the Rx-7 (with a standard checker)? I'm guessing that it would take about 20 or 30 minutes to do the test. Any hints here?

Thanks.

After installing the comp gauge into the plug hole (make sure you don't take both plugs out - duh) disable the ignition and the fuel ... have someone turn the car over. You will want to see 3 consitent compression pulses. If there is one high reading on the gauge... then two (significantly) lower readings... there is a bad seal. You'll get a feel for it once you watch the gauge for a few cycles.

Just look (and listen) for 3 equal compressions.

Don't forget that car parts start to break between 70k-85k so sometimes a low mileage car isn't always the best deal considering that it costs more. At $60k, it's due for a $400 maintenance too.

If it's a good deal, check all the mechanic parts and fluids. Have fun shopping!

Mine blew at 48k :(
DO a compression check on it.

I'd do a compression test on a car that had 20k on it. You never know with a rotary and you never know how the last owner REALLY drove and maintained that car.