3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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1993 Mazda Rx7 20,614 Original Miles

Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:24 PM
  #26  
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Good luck with your new baby. Do not take it to any Mazda dealership!!!!!! I have a Land Rover Discovery Series II and believe it or not my FD is more reliable than the Rover. I am going to sell the Rover so if anyone wants to buy another headache send me a pm.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:25 PM
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landrover ii

Originally Posted by jons3rdgen
Good luck with your new baby. Do not take it to any Mazda dealership!!!!!! I have a Land Rover Discovery Series II and believe it or not my FD is more reliable than the Rover. I am going to sell the Rover so if anyone wants to buy another headache send me a pm.
do you have the cd changer in it? does it work if you have it?
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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SLOOOOW DOWN!

With the wide open nature of the exhaust, I wouldn't go testing the 10-8-10 pattern until you've got an upgrade on the fuel system and ECU. It's just not worth screwing with until it's safe. One other point, I wouldn't go switching to NON sequential until you've got the car sorted out and have lived with sequential for awhile. Make some friends with RX-7 owners and try out their non-sequential installations. Unless you are racing or simply can't maintain the sequential system, you may find that sequential is a better driver's car for more mundane stuff like going to work, taking trips, autocrossing, etc. I love my sequential setup for its low end torque capability. If I was racing C5 or C6 Corvettes at Willow Srings or Road America, then I'd go full hog and get a big Garrett installed by someone who knew what they were doing. In the meanwhile, please, please, take care of that thing. There are few unmolested RX-7s left.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazda99Nikon
SLOOOOW DOWN!

With the wide open nature of the exhaust, I wouldn't go testing the 10-8-10 pattern until you've got an upgrade on the fuel system and ECU. It's just not worth screwing with until it's safe. One other point, I wouldn't go switching to NON sequential until you've got the car sorted out and have lived with sequential for awhile. Make some friends with RX-7 owners and try out their non-sequential installations. Unless you are racing or simply can't maintain the sequential system, you may find that sequential is a better driver's car for more mundane stuff like going to work, taking trips, autocrossing, etc. I love my sequential setup for its low end torque capability. If I was racing C5 or C6 Corvettes at Willow Srings or Road America, then I'd go full hog and get a big Garrett installed by someone who knew what they were doing. In the meanwhile, please, please, take care of that thing. There are few unmolested RX-7s left.

I definitely will take care of it. The funny thing is trying to get someone to take care of it for me, "mechanic", I want to keep the car as reliable as possible but at the same time fine tuning it to 320 + hp. Im use to 400 in the m5 but this car is so much more fun to drive and looks way better to. Im slowly learning about the ecu upgrade, intercooler, etc. Thanks again.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 09:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by superior force
with all the bolt-ons and pettit ECU you can reach your hp goal, then get a set of wider wheels, lowerng springs, fresh bushings, and good tires and the car is amazing, like a go cart
I bought the Power FC by Apexi already. Does that automatically increase hp ?
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 09:22 PM
  #31  
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It doesn't necesarily increase HP on its own. It allows you to turn up the boost and fine tune your AFRs which equate to more power.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:00 PM
  #32  
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what are afr's ?
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
what are afr's ?
Air Fuel Ratio

-Alex
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #34  
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How do you fine tune them and turn up the boost? Aren't those done when the ECU is preprogrammed, or do you have to automatically do that with the commander?
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
How do you fine tune them and turn up the boost? Aren't those done when the ECU is preprogrammed, or do you have to automatically do that with the commander?
To fine tune everything you'll have to have the ecu tuned on a dyno, or you can street tune it. Depending on who you bought the apexi unit from, it may have come pre programmed for your mods. Something like the Pettit ECU comes pre programmed and can't be fine tuned. Take a look here...

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/

Thats assuming you have the Power FC, and not the Super AFC. If you have the Super AFC, take a look here.

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

-Alex
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
To fine tune everything you'll have to have the ecu tuned on a dyno, or you can street tune it. Depending on who you bought the apexi unit from, it may have come pre programmed for your mods. Something like the Pettit ECU comes pre programmed and can't be fine tuned. Take a look here...

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

Thats assuming you have the Power FC, and not the Super AFC. If you have the Super AFC, take a look here.

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

-Alex

Thanks Alex, I have the Power FC I bought it from Jason at the Rx7 store and he said he would program it to meet my exhaust which is full blown down pipe, straight pipe and exhaust. What do you think?
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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start reading the FAQ section all your questions will be answered... where are u in NJ? south?? Jim at JPR imports is the man and is located in Blackwood... if your in north NJ well i cant help ya... but like they said theres a whole post full of specialists
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:20 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
Thanks Alex, I have the Power FC I bought it from Jason at the Rx7 store and he said he would program it to meet my exhaust which is full blown down pipe, straight pipe and exhaust. What do you think?
Well then you should be just fine once you install it, but don't drive around going WOT until you install it. If you start adding more mods, you'll need to have the Power FC tuned.

-Alex
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TurboLumpy
start reading the FAQ section all your questions will be answered... where are u in NJ? south?? Jim at JPR imports is the man and is located in Blackwood... if your in north NJ well i cant help ya... but like they said theres a whole post full of specialists

exit 123 off the parkway im in woodbridge, n.j. i think blackwood is about an 1 hr away. i'll find someone hopefully around here.
thanks
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #40  
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if anyone knows of anyone specializing in rotaries around the woodbridge area off hand, please let me know. thanks
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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In response to your PM........

Tune basically means programing the aftermarket ecu so that it runs the engine at it's best performance while staying reliable. The engines timing and Air/Fuel ratios are altered to match a vehicles added performance mods (exhaust, intake, fuel ect). Every vehicle is differant. Not all exhaust flow the same. Not all intakes flow the same. Jason said he would program your APEXI ecu to match your exhaust. That is basically a rough tune which usually leaves the engine running a little rough. Don't think this is bad because it's not. All he will be doing is adjusting the values of the ecu to meet your car's set-up. If you take your car to him in person, he could use his dyno to fine tune your vehicle. This makes the engine run smoother and more efficiant(almost like a stock factory car).

The APEXI ecu does have what is called a base map. It's programed to run a vehicle with certain modifications. This is still classified as a rough tune. Fine tuning can yield 20-30 hp increases all by itself compared to a rough/base tune. WARNING!!!!! Don't just use any near by shop to tune your Rx7. Make absoluetly sure that the shop has much experiance tuning rotary's. Turbo charged rotary's needs extra fuel underboost compared to a piston engine. Also the engines timing is very important. If that shop tunes your rotary with piston engine values you might as well order a new engine.

When properly tuned the rotary is a very durable engine regardless of what anyone says.

Edit: In my first post, I didn't realize that you had a full exhaust. Avoid doing that boost test.

Last edited by t-von; Feb 19, 2005 at 11:00 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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The A'PEXi PowerFC isn't like a "chip" upgrade for the performance sedan type cars (the BMW, Audi, etc). To go with it you need at minimum a proper tune. If you have exhaust, intake Jason can give you a good tune with a predone map but it won't be optimal since every car is a bit different.

The PFC can also be used to control boost though it isn't optimal, you may want to look at a separate boost controlling unit like the HKS EVC V, GReddy Profec B II, or A'PEXi AVC-R.

The couple of critical things to keep it running well for a long time, make sure you change your oil every 3k miles. Rotary engines are like two strokes that end up with fuel in the oil (the rotor rolls through the oil for lubrication, any unburned fuel gets dipped in the oil) and this can thin it out as well as make it dirty much faster due to exhaust ash also making it down into the oil.

The next item is change the spark plugs. Now with many piston engines you can go a very long time without needing to change plugs. On the rotary if you don't have an optimum tune and run in the optimum heat range for that tune and the plugs you're running they can foul quickly. With the setup you're going for I'd consider changing plugs at every oil change, they're cheap since you'll be running the stock heat range plugs (4 plugs should be around $12-15).
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TracyRX7
The A'PEXi PowerFC isn't like a "chip" upgrade for the performance sedan type cars (the BMW, Audi, etc). To go with it you need at minimum a proper tune. If you have exhaust, intake Jason can give you a good tune with a predone map but it won't be optimal since every car is a bit different.

The PFC can also be used to control boost though it isn't optimal, you may want to look at a separate boost controlling unit like the HKS EVC V, GReddy Profec B II, or A'PEXi AVC-R.

The couple of critical things to keep it running well for a long time, make sure you change your oil every 3k miles. Rotary engines are like two strokes that end up with fuel in the oil (the rotor rolls through the oil for lubrication, any unburned fuel gets dipped in the oil) and this can thin it out as well as make it dirty much faster due to exhaust ash also making it down into the oil.

The next item is change the spark plugs. Now with many piston engines you can go a very long time without needing to change plugs. On the rotary if you don't have an optimum tune and run in the optimum heat range for that tune and the plugs you're running they can foul quickly. With the setup you're going for I'd consider changing plugs at every oil change, they're cheap since you'll be running the stock heat range plugs (4 plugs should be around $12-15).
Ok great info. I believe Jason sent me Platinum NGK's for the car also. I have them and they were pretty costly though. I guess like you said, every 3k miles, I'll probably be in every 2500 for oil and plugs to be safe even though the Platinums are costly. Thanks
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SlingShotRX7
DUDE..

Look in the NE FORUM section.

there is a thread with LIST of all kinda mechanics/shops in NE.
and there like a alot in NJ.. as a matter of fact..
They are organizing a TUNING session with STEVE Kan (consider one of the top tuners)
in NJ, like next month..

and BTW.. Make your TURBOS NON Sequential.. You can do the poor man non sequential
and its nothning more than switching the PFC and switching some solenoids..

BTW..
who can blame him for rather having a FD than a M5.
FD's are one of the best looking cars ever made, and done right
will run circles around anything.. and is it me or DO the NEW BMW's front end
look PONTIACish and rear end look CHRYSLER STRATUSish.
Ignore the above person in regards to the turbos.

If the turbos work fine, leave them sequential and enjoy it.

Non-sequential is for people that cant trouble shoot their turbos.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 03:27 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
Ok great info. I believe Jason sent me Platinum NGK's for the car also. I have them and they were pretty costly though. I guess like you said, every 3k miles, I'll probably be in every 2500 for oil and plugs to be safe even though the Platinums are costly. Thanks
dont' change out your plugs ever 2500 miles, that's just throwing money down the drain. from what i've read (i don't own a 7 yet, trying to find a frame in good shape that i can build for myself), people here normally change their plugs about every 10k miles. Someone back me up on this so he doesn't just think i'm some tool who has no clue what he's talking about. also, just as a precaution, change your fuel filter, so you know when it was changed last...the FD filter is the same as a miata filter, and since the FD has twice the power of the Miata of equal vintage, the filter in the FD lasts only about 15k miles.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 03:40 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by whitey85mtu
dont' change out your plugs ever 2500 miles, that's just throwing money down the drain. from what i've read (i don't own a 7 yet, trying to find a frame in good shape that i can build for myself), people here normally change their plugs about every 10k miles. Someone back me up on this so he doesn't just think i'm some tool who has no clue what he's talking about. also, just as a precaution, change your fuel filter, so you know when it was changed last...the FD filter is the same as a miata filter, and since the FD has twice the power of the Miata of equal vintage, the filter in the FD lasts only about 15k miles.
Yea, changing the plugs every 2,500 miles is a waste of money. I'd say about every 10,000 miles check them to see their condition. If they check ok, then leave them in until about 15,000 miles. At that point go ahead and put in some new spark plugs. Change the oil every 2,500 to 3,000 miles, or every 6 months if you don't put that many miles on your 7 in a 6 month time period. As far as the fuel filter, atleast every 30,000 miles, since your car isn't to far off from that point, go ahead and put in a new one.

-Alex
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Yea, changing the plugs every 2,500 miles is a waste of money. I'd say about every 10,000 miles check them to see their condition. If they check ok, then leave them in until about 15,000 miles. At that point go ahead and put in some new spark plugs. Change the oil every 2,500 to 3,000 miles, or every 6 months if you don't put that many miles on your 7 in a 6 month time period. As far as the fuel filter, atleast every 30,000 miles, since your car isn't to far off from that point, go ahead and put in a new one.

-Alex

Thank you.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 11:07 AM
  #48  
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congrats on the purchase

umm there is a shop in north jersey called acosta..they are pretty good, i gone there a couple of times but they never tuned my car..they have a 900hp rx8 so that should explain it all..
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ulost2my7
congrats on the purchase

umm there is a shop in north jersey called acosta..they are pretty good, i gone there a couple of times but they never tuned my car..they have a 900hp rx8 so that should explain it all..

Yea I just found that place on the forum. Im going to let them tune my car. Hopeflly all goes well. Im sure there good from the looks of there website and from what you said. Where have you tuned your car? Thanks
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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Go non sequential.. Pverdick, has a point, but he failed to mention, that
when you start Opening up your exhaust and intake and upping the boost.
That there is this thing called " SPIKE " that can cause you to BLOW your engine.

During the Transition from the Primary turbo and when the Secondaries come online
there is a moment, when the both the turbos SPIKE, which causes a lean condition
which can cause KNock that will eat up your apex seals... So the question is
WHY not take that Variable out the equation????

Other arguement for Sequential is the so called " LAG "..

Unless you a lil GIRLIE man that races and do pulls from IDLE, and drive like a lil fairy
just to cry about lag.. Then Why not just keep the car stock??

I have mid size single turbo(t78) and believe me, there isn't the LAG that everyone
whines about.. Granted.. Some are like some Racers.. that may say " I Got you to 20mph"
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