1993-1995 comparison
 

Hey guys, I sold my fc and was considering getting an fd. Can't leave the rotaries haha too beautiful. Well my question is what were the changes made during those past 3 years? What does the 94 have that the 93 doesn't and vice versa. Same with the 95. I see a 94 one that I like, but I always preferred the 93 one. Can you guys compare the 3 for me? Oh I also have another question. I think I read somewhere that the US had 3 trims: Base, Touring, and R. I know the Touring has a sunroof and leather seats, but did the Base have a sunroof too? I'm looking for an R and that 94 fd i wanted doesn't have a sunroof so Touring trim is out. Is that Fd a Type R or could it be the base? Thanks soo much
Andrew

Check out the FAQ sticky...
 

Some of your info can be found in post #5

Yes, read through the stickys for info on the various models and equipment packages.
But know that at nearly 20 yrs old, alot FDs out there have had equipment swapped from others. As an example my own R1 is now equipped with factory cruise control...which it would NOT have had new.

This info is pretty widely availible.

Some of the stuff not always mentioned that I've come across is that the 94+ cars has an extra reinforcement in the rear (I'm pretty sure I'm right haha). Hopefully someone can confirm this as well. Everything else I can think of is mentioned everywhere.

As many have said before, this is a thoroughly covered subject that is tedious for the forum members to answer. It is better to search things like this and find a writeup that has already been done. A simple search may have come up with this similar thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/my-rx7-r1-base-baffled-pics-inside-883207/

I understand that the search function isn't always simple, and can be time consuming. It does get easier with use though, so my advice it practice :)

Here is some info for you anyway. The year is the easiest thing to determine. It is readily available straight from the VIN http://www.xs4all.nl/~erix7/rx7vin.html but it seems that you already have this covered.

As Sgtblue stated, all the other features of the car could have been changed along the way. As you've found, the easiest way to tell if it is a touring is the sunroof because it cannot be changed. Apart from that, telling if it was an R2 or a Base gets a little more difficult. If there had been no modifications or swapped parts to the car, look at the seats. R1 seats are a cheaper alacantra knock off (suede appearance). If they are regular fabric, you've got a base. Truthfully a Base can be turned into a R2 clone very easily so if you are being told it is an original R2 and you are paying more money due to it, the only way to be 100% sure is to contact a local Mazda dealer and have them run the VIN.

No performance difference between the years other than the R1 model (93) have a stiffer suspension than the R2 (94, 95)). 94-95’s are essentially the same. Biggest differences that come to mind (aesthetically) between the 93 and the 94’s (95) are that the 93’s the tachs have a line at every 100 RPM while the 94’s are at every 500.

93
http://www.jdm-online.com/media/cata...file_98_35.jpg

94-95
http://angeloautomotive.com/images/gauges_odometer.JPG


The interior of the 93 is smooth (and tends to flake) while the 94 is textured.

The tan interior on the 93 is quite extensive (IMO ugly) as it covers the seats, doors, headliner, rear bin and, carpet. Basically everything is tan except the dash and shifter console so it’s overwhelming (again IMO). On the 94’s the only thing that is tan is the seats and the carpet and IMO much better and quite nice.
93:

https://i739.photobucket.com/albums/...epping/int.jpg

https://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l...installed2.jpg

https://i739.photobucket.com/albums/...ng/intrear.jpg

94:
http://www.featuredcars.com/images/f...-7_16068_2.jpg

The only thing that it would be a deal breaker for me is for the FD not to have a sunroof (so any R1, R2 models are out for me luckily those are lowest production numbers) or have it be automatic, other than that I can work with any year. But given how rare well maintained FD’s are these days I’d first look for the cleanest, well kept FD out there (with a sunroof ha ha) no matter what year it is.

Oh okay thanks guys. I took a look at those links you gave me He's on to roids. They were helpful. Does the suspension difference make the R1 perform better than the R2?

If you want to do track days, you probably shouldn't get one with a sunroof... you'll want that extra inch of head room when you're wearing a helmet

^
This. I am 6'2'' and long waisted. My head hits the headliner in the sunroof cars. Therefore I have to have bases and R cars.

No, not really. It was just shock valving. AFAIK, the springs were the same. And unless your looking at a very low mileage car, those have been changed or swapped to coilovers by now anyway.
Personal preference, but I wouldn't want a sunroof regardless.

Oh okay so besides that, the car pretty much performs the same? The 94 fd i'm looking at is a non sunroof completely stock car except for the exhaust and strut bar. It's from a retired man and it's on 119k original miles.

That is a lot of miles on the original engine if that is what you meant by "it's on 119k original miles"

That would probably mean that he took good care of it though. Few make it that far without breaking for some reason.

yeah that is a lot for original engine without any rebuilds. It probably needs one soon though. Would it be a good fd to start with though? Seems really good and it might even be an R2.

Truly close to stock is always good IMO for a new owner. The FSM will be your bible and you won't have to guess at what a previous owner did. As long as you understand that most FDs experience a coolant seal failure at around 100,000 miles. Replacement of some pillow-ball bushings will be overdue as well...if the current owner hasn't dealt with them.

My car is manufactured 08/1993 (according to the sticker inside the door) but the dashboard is 94+ design, is that normal?

manufactured late in 93 is possibly a 94 model year. Mine is a 93 and was manufactured in 92.

Is he the only owner? If not, how can he guarantee it is the original engine? If so, how could he not know if it is an R2?

120K miles has been done. But, as stated before, it is rare. If it is 120K on an original engine, it is likely a great find. The rest of the car is probably in great condition too. But, I'd expect to have to replace that engine quite soon. Only one way to know for certain, get a compression test done.

Yep. These aren’t perishable items so they get built in advance to a certain model year’s specs and then go sit somewhere. Haven’t you ever been to a dealership and seen next years model already for sale and it’s like august… I remember seeing FD Rx-7’s in mid 1992 and as you know there are NO 1992 Rx-7’s.

I bought my car in 1998 from a dealership and it was 100% stock and I mean 100%. Now my 94 was built sometime in 92 (I forget the month I think it was Nov), and there is no question in my mind it’s a 94. From the registration, vin, dash, tach, window switch, interior color, UIM all are 94 style. Oh yeah even the seatbelt, as the passenger side seatbelt on the 93’s are freaking weird. WTF was up with that? Why did mazda do that? whatever…

I own an 1992 FD RX-7.


Albeit mine is imported from Japan.

-Geoff

^^Fine in the states.... happy? lol...

Edit- no wait even though the topic of conversation is well understood I must clarify before someone who somehow got a JDM 92 into the states chimes in. There are no 92 fds that where sold by mazda corp


Editx2- Oh no wait let me clarify that once again: By Mazda corp it pertains to Mazda USA :lol:


:lol:

I just found this pretty funny Montego, as Im the exact opposite. I wouldn't buy an FD with a sunroof, so its all bases or R packages for me haha.

Oh haha. Good point.s I took a closer look at the cluster and noticed the redlines were a bit different. Is that right? Oh and i think he was the 2nd owner.

If I'm not 100% if this is the only way, but, if the redline is different on the gauge it could be an automatic gauge cluster. Which would say to me that it is potentially an auto to manual swap. and that would open up all sorts of questions about the quality of the swap, etc. My auto is red starting 7K, (like the 94-95 gauge cluster shown above) the Manual should be red starting 7.5K (like the 93 shown above) make sure you look at this because it could be a big clue if it doesn't correspond.

Oh okay that's very helpful. I think i am going to check it out this weekend. Is there anything else I should look for?

Oh here's the vin JM1FD3335R0303469 is there a way i can tell if it's an R or Base?

Yes, give that number to a local Mazda dealership, they should be able to check build records and tell you what it came with.

Again, I would highly advise you to find someone in your area to take the car to. It may cost you some money now, but it could save you a lot in the future.

There's no information encoded in the VIN that would tell you the trim level. You either have to call Mazda, or look at the equipment on the car.

From the VIN I can tell you that it is indeed a 1994 and was built sometime after January 1994. My car has a serial number near 1900 and was built in January 1994.

Oh okay i'll give them a call. Did you have a place in mind to get the car inspected by? I don't know any rotary specialists. The Fc didn't give me problems i couldn't handle or at least it didn't yet.

Um since dual oil coolers is one of the main giveaways for a Type R can you guys tell me what it looks like and where it is located? Did the Base model have spoilers too? Are there any other giveaways I should look at? When i call mazda do i just say " Hi, can you guys check this vin for me to see what trim it is?"
Thanks

Have you even read the FAQ Sticky? Rather than asking question after question, how about doing a little reading first...

Also "search" is your friend. You can find many threads on dual oil coolers. Here is one in which an owner added OEM dual oil coolers to his car.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...al+oil+coolers

If it has dual factory oil coolers, a RED RX-7 factory engine strut bar, and black suede seats, it's likely. If not, you probably are looking at a base model.

Yeah it's all about personal taste. The reason I love the sunroof is because when it gets hot (which is quite often around these parts)and the car has been sitting in the sun for a few hours, it gets darn miserable in there. So I just pop open the sunroof, hatch, doors and stand outside for a couple of minutes and just let the heat out. It makes all the difference in the world to open that puppy up. Also once I get on the road the heat still radiates from the dash and cabin so keeping the sunroof open really circuates the air. Once it finally gets cool, close everything back up and crank the AC :)


I could only find one pic of a 94 cluster and it was an automatic. On 5 speeds the redline begins at 7.5K just like the 93's.

and no sunroof.

theres also VERY MINOR suspension changes

Oh okay thanks guys. I know what you mean montego haha. Well I think it's a base model. The seats had squares on them that resembled carbon fiber and it had cruise control. I looked at the bottom right of the bumper and saw an oil cooler but when I looked at the passenger side I think it had something black covering it. But I still need to call mazda to confirm it.

okay i just called and confirmed that it is in fact a base model. Would 9.5k be a good price for a base model?

There are many factors when determining vehicle price.

# of miles (engine & chassis)
state of the interior
suspension
wheels
title (salvage/clean)

take a look in the 3rd Gen Cars for Sale section to see what some cars sell for.

Comparision
 

As stated, there are subtle interior, mechanical changes from 93+. The biggest difference is the interior plastics are textured in 94+ cars. I wouldn't worry too much about suspensuion etc. You will be changing that anyway. These are consumable items and if the car has close to 120k the suspension will be due for a change. I bought my 1993 in August of 1992, so yes you could have a 93 built in 92, a 94 built in 93 etc.

If you need to do a rebuild, but everything else is stock and in great condition 9-9.5K is a decent price.

I don't think it will need a rebuild soon. I redlined it and drove it to its limit when i tested it. It ran strong. It starts right up. The car is spotless. It's prestine. If you told me it was a 2011 and I didn't know it was made in 1994 I would believe you. If everything is good she'll be mine tomorrow.

im not talking about shocks and springs and bushings, im talking about subtle changes in the geometry.... the rear suspension has some extra bracing i believe

Show us some pics after you get it, I know I'm not the only one interested in seeing it. :icon_tup:

This is the first I've heard of this... Very interesting if it's true.

well i mean its not going to be significantly apparent, i dont think it is.
for me it was very slight. even then i doubt what i saw because i drove quite a few stock FDs of all 3 MY's and they all feel the same.

but then again, that was years ago that i saw the underside of any 94/95 FDs since i have a 93 and there arent any FD's in my area. so my "experience" may be a bit fuzzy.

Hey guys, when I drove it home. It was fine, but I noticed something in 5th gear. After 3k rpm or around their the car slowed down. I had to let me feet go off the gas pedal and repress it for it to boost again. Is this turbo lag? Besides that in 5th gear everything is 100% working. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

There is an extra crossmember crossing the tunnel under the driveshaft. Perhaps this is the reference.

Geometry is definitely the same.

David

Can't find pictures, but I think this is a reference to the two additional braces on the 94 and subsequent models. IIRC they ran forward from the cross-member just in-board of the lower 'I' arm mounting point... to the chassis near the last tunnel cross-brace.
I'm not sure what prompted Mazda to add them. I've never had any issues on my 93...and never heard of anyone else having issues either.

Welcome to the world of troubleshooting the sequential twin turbo setup on the fd. Sounds like you could possibly a vacuum check valve issue, or a small leak in the vacuum chamber.

this is probably the unfortunate reality, good luck and have fun. Remember to take some breaks too.

aaaw man. Sounds terrible. I'll get pictures up tomorrow for sure. Been busy today

huh... didn't even know that. Cool