Originally Posted by adam c
rx76k,
99.9% of the people on this forum have changed the oil on their car. Lessons are not required. |
Originally Posted by JConn2299
WFT?! "ONLY PERFORM WORK ON COLD ENGINE" Where did you get that one? Oil change 101.....any fool knows the oil should be warm when you change it. You don't want it so hot it burns your hand, but certainly better hot than cold. You won't get all the impurities out of your engine with cold oil.
You're new to this car, so here's another tip. Don't start it up, run it for a short period, then turn the engine off. You could run into a restart problem. Any time you start this car up let it get up to operating temperature before you turn it off. I've never let my car run for less than 15 minutes before turning it off. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/change-oil-filter-without-changing-oil-433487/ |
Originally Posted by adam c
Wow, another expert :rlaugh: :rlaugh:
Anyone who isn't a fool knows that there are often many methods available to complete the same task ........ like changing oil. I like to change it when cold because more of the oil is in the pan, not in the engine, not in the filter. When changing cold oil, some small particles will have settled to the bottom of the pan. Well guess what?? The oil at the bottom of the pan comes out first. I have used this method for years. WOW, another "expert." That's a laugh. There's an owner's manual for the FD. Have you ever read it? I refer you to page 7-13. It's under the heading "Changing engine oil" "1. Warm up the engine for a few minutes and turn it off. Remove the oil-filter cap." Some people here don't even bother to learn the basics. |
lol i dont feel as stupid anymore
|
Originally Posted by JConn2299
WOW, another "expert." That's a laugh. There's an owner's manual for the FD. Have you ever read it? I refer you to page 7-13. It's under the heading "Changing engine oil"
"1. Warm up the engine for a few minutes and turn it off. Remove the oil-filter cap." Some people here don't even bother to learn the basics.
Originally Posted by adam c
Anyone who isn't a fool knows that there are often many methods available to complete the same task ........ like changing oil. |
Originally Posted by saburo
Originally Posted by F0RSAKEN
Im glad this community is filled with such helpful, openminded, and decent people. Very refreshing.
I love this place. You're tough, but you're fair. ;) |
First, I run the front of the car up on a pair of Rhino ramps (best $30 investment you can make), then I punch a large hole or 2 into the top of the old filter before removing it so that the oil in it all drains into the engine instead of onto it. Next, install a new filter. Then, remove the drain plug. While it is draining, I use a floor jack with a block of wood under the differential to level the car for good drainage. Then I lower the rear, reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and add the new oil. No mess and no need for jack stands.
|
Originally Posted by adam c
Anyone who isn't a fool knows that there are often many methods available to complete the same task ........ like changing oil. That's right everybody. Disregard your owner's manual. Don't pay attention to the engineers who designed the car. Instead you should follow adam c, this dude who posts on the internet. |
Originally Posted by murphyefini
lol i dont feel as stupid anymore
No, you shouldn't feel stupid. You're just new to the car, that's all. What bugged me about your post was that you wrote what looked like a very comprehensive list, but it wasn't. It missed some basics, like warming up the engine, and also, as a thorough mechanic would do, replacing the crush washer on the drain plug. Then I saw your number of posts and your admission that you're a new owner and I didn't want some other newbie to be misled or get into bad habits thinking it was the way to go. On two occasions I've heard people whom I consider to be rotary engine experts be dismissive of this forum. They both said the same thing. "There's some bad information floating around on that thing." I also happen to think there's a lot of good information floating around here. But it pays to be thorough in your research before you come to a conclusion, especially if you haven't had a long experience with the car. |
Originally Posted by JConn2299
WOW, another "expert." That's a laugh. There's an owner's manual for the FD. Have you ever read it? I refer you to page 7-13. It's under the heading "Changing engine oil"
"1. Warm up the engine for a few minutes and turn it off. Remove the oil-filter cap." Some people here don't even bother to learn the basics. |
Originally Posted by Sonny
rx76k: Welcome to the forum! It can be a little rough here getting started. Don't get discouraged. People wanting to help out...regardless of what it is...are valuable to the forum. Sonny
|
Originally Posted by JConn2299
That's right everybody. Disregard your owner's manual. Don't pay attention to the engineers who designed the car. Instead you should follow adam c, this dude who posts on the internet.
Sonny |
kaktakular
|
Originally Posted by JConn2299
On two occasions I've heard people whom I consider to be rotary engine experts be dismissive of this forum. They both said the same thing. "There's some bad information floating around on that thing."
I also happen to think there's a lot of good information floating around here. But it pays to be thorough in your research before you come to a conclusion, especially if you haven't had a long experience with the car. theres a lot of garbage floating around here. |
Originally Posted by JConn2299
That's right everybody. Disregard your owner's manual. Don't pay attention to the engineers who designed the car. Instead you should follow adam c, this dude who posts on the internet.
By your logic, everyone should do everything that is recommended by Mazda. That would include keeping all stock parts: Stock AST Stock Radiator Stock Pre-cat Stock Intercooler Stock Coolant Temp Gauge I sure you do everything Mazda recommends ......... shouldn't everyone :rlaugh: :rlaugh: |
Originally Posted by rx76k
as one of the newest owners of an FD (picked it up 2 days ago), i checked the oil dipstick and there was almost no oil in it. well i threw in a quart and picked up some tools yesterday for an oil change today. i couldn't find a write up on this basic but very essential service required after every 2000 miles, so i wrote one.
i used purolator pureone since mazda wanted $10.25+tax retail for a freggin oil filter. the purolator features an anti-drain back feature that oem has and is smaller and comparable to oem quality. oil is oil, so i picked up a case at costco discount wholesaler. they also have a low profile jack similiar to shop floor jacks for a reasonable price. don't settle for a cheap $19.99 jack at kragen that lifts up to 15-3/4", which doesn't provide enough room. service on a rx7 will be difficult without a high lifting low profile jack. PARTS: -purolator PureONE oil filter PL14612 -chevron supreme 10w30 motor oil, 4 quarts -oil filter cap (tool; size that fits filter, usually black plastic) -3/8" socket wrench/rachet -17mm socket (for 3/8" rachet) -plastic funnel -oil pan (to drain old oil, style: white plug middle, yellow air valve, white cap) -low profile jack 3" to 21" @ costco $75.99 -jack stands -large pieces of cardboard -paper towels -safety glasses IMPORTANT!
Originally Posted by rx76k
ONLY PERFORM WORK ON COLD ENGINE:
1. pop hood, raise hood and secure it with rod.
Originally Posted by rx76k
2. jack the car at the jack point after the front wheel on the left side. you can't jack it from the front center of car since the jack won't reach.
3. ALWAYS use jack stands to secure the car in place. 4. unscrew oil cap under hood. 5. slide cardboard then oil pan under the car near the drain plug. on oil pan, unscrew center plug, open air valve, keep white cap secured. 6. ALWAYS use safety glasses since working under the car. beware of pieces of caked on oil dropping from the car into eyes. 7. slide under the car, use 17mm socket with 3/8" rachet to unscrew drain plug and empty dirty motor oil into oil pan. wipe drain plug clean with paper towels and save for later. allow 10 minutes for oil to completely drain.
Originally Posted by rx76k
8. use oil filter cap with rachet to unscrew and remove oil filter located under the hood, under the silver elbow (piece next to upper intake manifold).
Originally Posted by rx76k
9. match the old oil filter to the new oil filter o-ring to o-ring to lube the new filter with oil without getting your hands dirty.
Originally Posted by rx76k
10. screw in new Purolator PureONE oil filter by hand, tighten if necessary. note: the existing napa brand (same size as oem) filter i replaced was taller and more narrow than purolator making installation and removal difficult (e.g. scraped knuckles). the purolator filter should make future oil changes easier due to its smaller size..
Originally Posted by rx76k
11. IMPORTANT: under the car, screw on cleaned drain plug saved from earlier. otherwise oil will leak all over the place.
Originally Posted by rx76k
12. use a funnel at oil cap location and pour 4 quarts of motor oil into engine. screw on oil cap. pull, check oil level and wipe dipstick with paper towel as necessary.
13. make sure the bottom of car is clear. remove jack stands then proceed to slowly lower car to ground.
Originally Posted by rx76k
14. check for any leaks before starting car.
Originally Posted by rx76k
15. plug up oil pan, put in garbage bag and take to local kragen for free motor oil disposal. throw oil containers in garbage, they are not recyclable.
disclaimer: information for comparison only. use at your own risk. |
Originally Posted by rx76k
that is right.
VI Flash Pour % Ash % Zinc Brand (10W-30) 142 480 -70 <.5 --- AMSOIL (old) 162 520 -76 --- --- AMSOIL (new) 140 415 -33 .85 .12 Castrol GTX 150 401 -26 .96 .11 Chevron Supreme 135 392 -22 .70 .11 Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 133 400 -31 .85 .13 Exxon Superflo Supreme 139 430 -30 1.0 --- Havoline Formula 3 139 390 -25 1.0 .16 Kendall GT-1 160 450 -65 --- --- Mobil 1 140 410 -27 1.0 --- Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 156 410 -30 .9 --- Quaker State 139 475 -40 --- --- Red Line 155 410 -35 .9 .12 Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 1.0 .13 Shell Super 2000 155 405 -35 1.0 .15 Shell Truck Guard 175 405 -40 --- --- Spectro Golden M.G. 153 428 -33 .92 .12 Unocal Super 130 410 -26 1.0 .11 Valvoline All Climate 135 410 -26 .99 .13 Valvoline Turbo 130 410 -26 1.2 .20 Valvoline Race 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12 Valvoline Synthetic % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. i can't seem to update the original post. UPDATE: change oil when engine is warm so small particles will be in oil. a cold engine allows small particles to settle down and not exit when draining the oil. |
Originally Posted by AMRAAM4
nice work adam c. I was just about to write a similar post. It amazes me how many fucking douchebag comments there had to be to a honest guy trying to add information to the board.
Originally Posted by AMRAAM4
Sure, it is common sense
Originally Posted by AMRAAM4
to most and is probably already here somewhere, but what the fuck...these are the same people who yell at noobs and tell them to learn how to do shit or "seeearch" :rolleyes: I'll take one of thes threads each weak as opposed to "where's my coolant leak??" (gee, I dunno, check the fuckng hoses perhaps!)
rx76k, although a repost of some sort...good work, don't let the folks with busted cars and a couple hundred posts here bust your balls. |
Originally Posted by Retserof
First, I run the front of the car up on a pair of Rhino ramps (best $30 investment you can make), then I punch a large hole or 2 into the top of the old filter before removing it so that the oil in it all drains into the engine
Originally Posted by Retserof
instead of onto it. Next, install a new filter. Then, remove the drain plug. While it is draining, I use a floor jack with a block of wood under the differential to level the car for good drainage. Then I lower the rear, reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and add the new oil. No mess and no need for jack stands.
|
Now if I pissed anyone off ....don't be so sensitive. I enjoyed this post as much as the good guy bad guy forum !!!!
Welcome to the list rx76k and when you get through figuring out the turbo contol system on you car give me a detailed list on fixing it as mines not boosting correctly yet. |
Originally Posted by JConn2299
What bugged me about your post was that you wrote what looked like a very comprehensive list, but it wasn't. It missed some basics, like warming up the engine, and also, as a thorough mechanic would do, replacing the crush washer on the drain plug.
Originally Posted by JConn2299
But it pays to be thorough in your research before you come to a conclusion, especially if you haven't had a long experience with the car.
Originally Posted by JConn2299
Then I saw your number of posts and your admission that you're a new owner and I didn't want some other newbie to be misled or get into bad habits thinking it was the way to go.
Originally Posted by JConn2299
But it pays to be thorough in your research before you come to a conclusion, especially if you haven't had a long experience with the car.
|
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Engine should be operating temp. If you can't stand the heat +take it to an oil change place. They will wait for it to cool off.
UPDATE: change the oil warm or cold, at your preference.
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Do you have to use a Purolator, you can use the part number for the 626 and have a taller filter
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Are you sure it takes 4 whole qt.s ??? or is it 31/2 or 4 1/2 I think I always wind up with 1/2 qt. left when I add to the fill line. Then use it to add at 1500 mi. (I am generally 1/2 qt down by then)
|
Did you know if you over fill it, that it may smoke ? ? ?
|
1 Attachment(s)
I am not going to comment on the need for a oil change write up, but to add my two sheckels...
I never use a jack or jack stands stands for an oil change, it is a waste of time. All you need to do is lift the front of the car two inches or so to get the drain pan under the car. Normally you cannot because the car has a low clearance. So, make a Quick GP ramp.
Now you have a handly dandy ramp that can be used easily. The rubber matting on the bottom will prevent the ramp from sliding forward when you attempt to drive up the 22.5 degree angle of the plank ends. The big benefit of these ramps is that you don't need help gettin up on them and they won't slide out from under the car as you drive forward. Also, you don't need someone else to help spot you to see if you are about to drive off the end. Just takes a minute to drive up, and then you just drive off the other end. After the engine is up to temp, reach under and remove the drain plug and yada, yada, yada... complete the oil change. Personally, I never use new crush ring. Never have for 25+ years, never had a leak. I just make sure I do not try to tighten the drain plug using super-human strength - snug is good enough. |
This is getting old. Can someone please tell me how to rotate the tires?
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:13 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands