0.9 pressure cap... why not higher??
I've been taken a look at some japanese interviews and I've seen some FDs with 1.3 bar cap on their aftermarket ASTs. I've searched and it seems you don't recommend going over 0.9 pressure caps because the coolant system is not prepared for these pressures. But, which are the parts in danger exactly? The system gaskets, heater radiator, the hoses themselves?
It's known that the higher the pressure is, the higher the boiling point becomes, so theorically high pressures are better in order to improve cooling, isn't it? I'd like to understand which parts are not supposed to keep higher pressures :) |
Mazda actually lowered the pressure caps in a TSB as there were reports of coolant hoses failing and catching fire (coolant is flammable).
|
Originally Posted by victorFD
(Post 7723465)
I've been taken a look at some japanese interviews and I've seen some FDs with 1.3 bar cap on their aftermarket ASTs. I've searched and it seems you don't recommend going over 0.9 pressure caps because the coolant system is not prepared for these pressures. But, which are the parts in danger exactly? The system gaskets, heater radiator, the hoses themselves?
It's known that the higher the pressure is, the higher the boiling point becomes, so theorically high pressures are better in order to improve cooling, isn't it? I'd like to understand which parts are not supposed to keep higher pressures :) |
I run a zero pressure cap with Evans NPG+ coolant. Yes, ZERO pressure. Oh, and my AST is eliminated.
|
So, for example, if you're running a full aftermarket hose kit stronger than stock, theorically it would be better (in cooling purposes) a 1.3 bars AST cap, do you mean this?
|
Originally Posted by FDeez
(Post 7724264)
I run a zero pressure cap with Evans NPG+ coolant. Yes, ZERO pressure. Oh, and my AST is eliminated.
|
Originally Posted by victorFD
(Post 7725837)
Zero pressure cap? I am not able to understand how your FD cooling system is working actually... :Wconfused
|
Doesn't NPG+ require a 0 pressure cap...
|
Originally Posted by rotarymandan
(Post 7725846)
Doesn't NPG+ require a 0 pressure cap...
|
ahum..... were do you get a 0 psi cap? I want one :P
|
Originally Posted by rash_rvg
(Post 7726146)
ahum..... were do you get a 0 psi cap? I want one :P
|
yeah, its for NPG+. I was recently "sold" to it :)
I have to eliminate the AST also right? |
Originally Posted by rash_rvg
(Post 7726158)
yeah, its for NPG+. I was recently "sold" to it :)
I have to eliminate the AST also right? |
:icon_tup: Thanks! :icon_tup:
|
Originally Posted by victorFD
(Post 7725835)
So, for example, if you're running a full aftermarket hose kit stronger than stock, theorically it would be better (in cooling purposes) a 1.3 bars AST cap, do you mean this?
|
Originally Posted by victorFD
(Post 7725835)
So, for example, if you're running a full aftermarket hose kit stronger than stock, theorically it would be better (in cooling purposes) a 1.3 bars AST cap, do you mean this?
|
your temp gauge will read an average of the temp of the coolant flowing past it. one advantage of raising the system pressure and raising the boiling temp is to prevent localized boiling in potential hotspots. i dont know how rotaries are with this, but in a piston engine its a good idea because it will prevent the coolant in hotspots from boiling and letting areas around the combustion chamber get too hot and potentially causing detonation.
|
Originally Posted by phunk
(Post 7728608)
your temp gauge will read an average of the temp of the coolant flowing past it. one advantage of raising the system pressure and raising the boiling temp is to prevent localized boiling in potential hotspots. i dont know how rotaries are with this, but in a piston engine its a good idea because it will prevent the coolant in hotspots from boiling and letting areas around the combustion chamber get too hot and potentially causing detonation.
|
so how about a 1.1 bar?
|
Just a thought...
A car has coolant seals that are going, but not gone. The coolant only disappears after the system is pressurized, and does so in minut amounts. Would running a system with no pressure eliminate coolant loss to a certain extent? Would it constitute as a band-aid? |
Originally Posted by MADDSLOW
(Post 7731686)
Just a thought...
A car has coolant seals that are going, but not gone. The coolant only disappears after the system is pressurized, and does so in minut amounts. Would running a system with no pressure eliminate coolant loss to a certain extent? Would it constitute as a band-aid? |
Originally Posted by cptpain
(Post 7731730)
no, it might just make it worse
|
Originally Posted by MADDSLOW
(Post 7731686)
Just a thought...
A car has coolant seals that are going, but not gone. The coolant only disappears after the system is pressurized, and does so in minut amounts. Would running a system with no pressure eliminate coolant loss to a certain extent? Would it constitute as a band-aid? |
so then if i have an aftermarket ast its be alright to run 1.1?
|
Originally Posted by FDdragon
(Post 7733150)
so then if i have an aftermarket ast its be alright to run 1.1?
1.) need to because there car runs on the higher side and need the added "head room" to avoid boiling over. 2.) track the car or are running a single turbo, and while the possibility of a fire under the hood exist, they are prepared to deal with it. I still haven't figured out why using the Evans coolant would be considered a band aid, due to the fact that it's always a possibility the car may run a tad bit higher temperature. My interest in the Evans was the fact there's no water to introduce minerals in the system to help the metals eat themselves up (another cause of o-ring seal failure is the thin web gets eaten up) this is generally related to neglect of the cooling system. The zero pressure part is just a plus as well because there's no stress on the hoses and or water pump seal. I would suggest if your going to run higher pressure carry a fire extinguisher. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:06 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands