[3] Clutch/Flywheel - Problems/Suggestions
 

Hi Folks...

Background:

'93 Touring
Pettit Intake
HKS Ignition
RP Pulley
Greddy IC
M2 D/P
SR Midpipe
Apexi CB
Blitz EBC
RP Fuel Pump
Power FC


Had Ricks put the M2 heavy- duty clutch/flywheel ( http://www.m2performance.com/pTranClu.htm ) combo in about 6 months ago. I've put about 5k miles on the car in that time frame. The stock clutch had 80k miles on it and was beginning to slip slightly. Rick replaced the rear seal while doing the clutch install as well.

Followed suggested break-in period. Clutch never felt "tight" after break-in period. After 4th gear runs on the freeway, I could smell clutch, although it wasn't slipping enough to notice it in any other way.

Tonight, I was going to race a friend in a Supra. 1st gear, slip right to redline.... 2nd gear, slip right to redline.... Put it in 3rd and gave it a little gas trying to get off the road and it went to redline. Parked it, cooled down a bit, and now it seems to drive okay. 4th and 5th gear pulls on the freeway don't show any slipping. 20 miles of driving with the windows down and it still smells like clutch.

Since install, it has always had a bit of a chatter when leaving lights, etc. It seems to be worse with higher temps.

My question(s): Does anyone else have any experience with the M2 heavy-duty clutch/flywheel package? I did not have the clutch line replaced, could that be the problem? Granted, the thing is probably toast now, but I don't want to replace the clutch and flywheel, only to have the same thing happen again.

Thanks...

-Matt

I have experince with the M2 heavy duty clutch with 8.5-lb flywheel and counterweight (included).

Which clutch disc did you buy? Did you get the 8.5-lb flywheel?

My original rubber clutch hose split at the hose connection end, so I suggest you get this replaced with a braided stainless steel hose, before you experience a clutch failure.

I recently had to replace my disc and clutch fork after 2 years with the M2 heavy duty pressure plate (it's ACT I believe) which has 33% more clamping force than stock. Only one of the fork tines had failed, so I had some clutch use. The AIM guys thought the higher clamping force from the ACT (M2) pressure plate contributed to the clutch fork failure. The Racing Beat street stip disc had worn out prematurely. I believe this was due to my not properly breaking in the clutch disc. I always smelled clutch disc, especially when slipping the disc when climbing an incline from a standstill, or going in reverse from a standstill.

Thanks for the reply....

I got the 9.5 lb flywheel and heavyduty clutch. sounds like the same thing you are using.

I only have about 5k miles on the combo, so I'm sure something has gone wrong. Possibly my fault, possibly not....

I'm going to talk to M2 tomorrow to see what they say.

-Matt

One of these will fix all your troubles :)

http://www.ajc13b.com/clutch-5.jpg

Uhhh... and what exactly is that?

After further testing, the problem seems to be heat. Today I was able to drop the clutch at 4k and spin them easily. If I let the car sit for 20 minutes after a normal drive and then fire it back up, the clutch will slip easily.

sigh....

-Matt

That looks like a RE Amemiya clutch. I got the Mazdaspeed twin plate clutch myself. Twin plate is the way to go. It seems like everybody in Japan runs twin plate. I love my clutch.

Twin plates are your friend! :)

Hey Lone Wolf, does yours whistle at you at medium revs?? My flywheel has so many holes in it it whistles :)

What are the advantages with the twin plate clutch setup? Does it handle more power, or is it smoother or something? Also, what do you do when you wear it out? Can you purchase just a a single disc? Sorry for so many quesitons.

eric

It handles heaps more power!

Its alot harsher than a single plate clutch, but it makes up for it in the power it can handle! You could go up to a 20B and not have to change the clutch!!