Pineapple racing idler pulley big turbo
 

so not sure if I’m installing this totally incorrectly? Added some pics for visual reference. Thx

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d2bc5cb40.jpeg
Is this the right orientation? It would seem with the circular raised bevels (the bearing would sit on it)? But in the directions it says the pineapple racing logo should face the front?? Then that would make this raised circular bevel face the back..
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b4482e403.jpeg
So got everything on there. The small Allen bolt right side of bracket is easily stripped and unfortunately stripped on me. Would recommend to find and use a regular stainless bolt m6-1.0-30mm
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6a7b6c043.jpeg
On the pulley bracket There is a little space where the stud goes into the water pump. I wanted to let it sit flush so I added a washer. Used the supplied long bolt (to replace the stock stud and nut) but as you can see the bolt head is hitting touching the water pump pulley (blue)…
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0d14a1fb4.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0f07baea.jpeg

That looks like the original idler that goes up by the water pump inlet/outlet.

Doesnt big turbo version bracket look like this?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f5de24fe96.jpg


But to answer your question the bevel side of the pulley faces the motor side with the writing facing out like you say.

The bevel was to clear the casting up in the original water pump neck location.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...21ec482f00.jpg

So I got the stripped small bolt loose and was able to take it all off. Took off the washer in the back of the indented side. Tried to tighten it all back and it seems like it sits fine and straight without any washer. Maybe that’s what was causing the big m8 long bolt to hit the water pump pulley. So the water pump pulley clears the bolt now by a very little. Is that supposed to be like that? So seems like everything is back on and I didn’t tighten the two bolts hold the bracket super tight or I did not put lock tight either. Is that recommended?
But both of the belts do not fit. It’s too short. I loosened the alternator all the way. And it still barely doesn’t fit. Am I running the belt pattern wrong?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...12a4bf7a5.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fe25e14b2.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d049e3ab7.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c3dc93e21.jpeg

You have to get a new belt length to run the idler pulley.

I dont know what alternator and waterpump pulley you have, bit you can use Pineapple Racings site.

Use the drop down menu-

https://www.pineappleracing.com/fdidlerpulleykit-2.aspx

I think my water pump and alternator pulleys are greddy and I got the belts from rob for the pulleys. But they both are still too short..

Then get longer belts?

I used FFE idler and just measured and bought a belt. You have a good starting point having a belt thats a bit too short.

Alternator belt doesnt look too short though. Get the alternator down lower. Might have to get stud that goes into slot out or get slotted bracket loose. Get the belt on the alt pulley and then get alternator and bracket back into position.

Likewise PS pulley can go down further in that pic. If you lowered it and belt still too short, try tricks like on alternator.

Or you could unbolt bolts on WP pulley, put belt on alternator then slide WP pulley on- that way your not fihjting the height and friction of the belt ridges (smooth back of belt on smooth pulley).

Or take Right most bolt off PR idler, slacken it till belt goes on, tighten idler and put bolt back in.

the way belt sizing works is like this:
the ribs on a multi rib belt are an SAE standard size, so you just need to know the number of them. the next thing is the length, US belt suppliers generally use inches, and everyone else uses MM.

the stock alternator belt is a 5PK-1355 (i think it was a MitsubOshi), so its 5 rib, 1355mm long. or if you wanted a US belt 1355/25.4 = 53.3" or a K050533. (some manufacturers us the outer diameter of the belt, and some use the inner, so there is a tolerance here, also belts kind of vary anyways, which is why there are adjustments)
the K and PK mean something but i'm not sure what, a DK means its double sided, some cars have the ribs on both sides of the belt.

any good parts person knows that the size is in the part number of the belt, but apparently going from inches to metric was something innovative.

so you can take a tape measure and run it around the pullies and get a measurement that will be close

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6202782fc.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...759959c20.jpeg


got the belt on! Thx for the tip! Put it around the alternator first and all around the 5 grooved pulleys. then slipped it on the water pump pulley (smooth on smooth)!

Will put the other belt on and (changing to koyo nflow radiator). And will start it up (bleed it- heater on max w car nose tilted up) w a lyle style funnel.

Vegas is scorching hot now (110-120 deg) and water temp was reading at 95-100. Even w the lower temp thermostat. We will see how doing all these cooling mods would help or not.

Oh good, it went on OK.

Yeah, couldnt remember exactly how I got my belt on with the idler- but remeber it took some enlightened thought and then once tensioned the tensioner definitely was in its normal operating range (so a longer belt wouldnt have worked).

Did that install from Pineapple, gave then the wrong spec on my pullies. Went to Autozone, got the next 3 longer belts, middle one fit perfectly, took the other 2 back, total cost about $16.00.