non-seq turbo how to?
 

I'm sick of all these damn turbo problems so I want to do the non-seq turbo system mod. Where can I find a really really good write up? I don't know my engine bay very well nor do I know names of parts, but I do have the factory service manaul. Pics would be of the mod being done would be awesome too if any one has any.

Would I need any other mods besides the ones I have in my sig?

I've already done a search and didn't find anything.

I just went non-sequential yesterday and i'm very happy so far.:D This thread was on page 2:
https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=21185
that should get you started. Remember theres basically two ways to do it; The fully envolved way or the "poormans" way. I did the poormans way and it took me only an hour. I'm not gonna pull my turbos off my car to do the more envolved way unless theres more of a need to. The poormans way is basically forcing all the controling devices into permanent twin turbo mode, the way they normaly are when your above 4500rpm. I'm still trying to find out the benifit of going with the more envolved way vs. the poormans way, but i havent got too much feedback on it.

As far as your mods, are you running the stock fuel pump? also, how are your injectors, have they been balanced (like RC engineering service) lately? And how much boost do you want to run?

Hope this helps.

As far as my fuel system its all stock. I plan on getting a MP or hi flow cat, then a FMIC and turn the boost to 14 PSI. At that time I'll start doing some basic fuel system upgrades.

Would the "poormans" way require me to find my current boost problem. I'm only getting 0-3psi on the second turbo. I had this same probelm about 2 weeks ago and I fixed it. I checked for the same hose this time but its not it.

How much downtime would I be looking at if I did it the evolved way? Rember to factor in the fact that I dont' really know what I'm doing.

Thanks for any help.

Here is the updated procedure.
1. Take the air box out, and the 2 hoses that supply air to the turbos.
2. Take the blow off valve and charge relief valve off
3. Disconnect the vacuum line to the charge relief valve and cap it at the upper manifold.
4. T into the blow off valve´s vacuum line, and run a new line to the old charge releif valve.
5. Remove all vacuum lines to the charge control valve on the rear of the Y pipe. This should dissable the butterfly in the Y... keeping it open always. Besure to cap all the removed vacuum lines to the manifold and Y pipe.
6. Jack up the car, support it with jack stands, and take off the front passenger side tire (this makes it tons easier to get under and out of the car.)
7. Remove the head sheilding to the under neath of the turbo (should be 5-6 10mm nuts and bolts)
8. Remove the keeper pin from the actuator rod and seperate the rod from the door mechanism. Wire the door open. I ran a wire around the actuator around the door lever and back about 3 times. (tip: with the car off, the door is closed. to open it, it should be rotated towards the front of the car)
9. Remove the vacuum lines to the Turbo Pre Control actuator, remove the rod to the door, and wire it open. Make sure to cap all loose lines.
10. Leave the direct pressure line (the one with the restrictor) on the Wastegate actuator, but remove and plug the other line leading to the Wastegate solonoid.
11. Resinstall all your intake hoses, make sure it is all tightened, and take it for a spin around the block (or further)

It is recommended and neccessary to get a free flowing exhaust including downpipe. I have a totally new exhaust consisting of a downpipe, high flowing cat, and Racing Beat Muffler. I also took the opportunity to install a brand new Carbon Fiber M2 Airbox with K&N filters.

Comments: What I can comment on is the lack of power down low, but I was able to get ~10lbs of boost in 2nd around 5000 rpm... nice smooth curve, no sudden pull. You can clearly hear the blow off valves. They arent´ loud, but a nice ´pissssh´ sound. I think there is a little more noise from the turbos now, but nothing too bad, just a little more grumble.

I just read the evolved way and that seems way over my head.

Rotart93, is that the "poormans" method that FD racer was referring to?

I have a couple questions.

In steps 5 and 9 when you say remove do you mean remove the hoses completely and cap the openings or do you mean just disconect the end that goes to the charge control valve (step 5) or the turbo pre control actuator (step 9) and leave the hoses in the engine bay?

The BOV and CRV vac lines are the snall ones that go into it right?

Yeah, you should definetly take a look at the fuel system with the mods you're planning and 14psi.

As far as the poormans conversion, No you dont really need to diagnoss the 2nd turbo problem unless its something like a clogged cat or the 2nd turbo actually being bad.

The conversion is easy. This is what i did:

-Take the turbo contol actuator off. It only has two 10mm nuts on it and can be easily removed from underneath. (its the big fat round thing that has two vacumm lines going to it, one in the middle & one on the side, it has a small arm coming out of it. its also the closest one to the ground) Use the bracket from it to wire the turbo control arm all the way towards where the actuator used to be. I can post a pic if you need one.

-on the precontrol actuator, simply remove the two vacumm lines attached to it an cap it off (the hose too). This will keep the actuator from moving, keeping the gate closed.

(The precontrol actuator is the one located above the turbo control actuator mentioned above. It has the longest arm coming out of it. The wastegate actuator is located above it, so its in the middle of the three. The wastegate and the precontrol look similar and the turbo control looks comletely different.)

-disconect the two small vacumm lines going to the charge control actuator (i think thats the name) which is located on the Y-pipe. Its a small actuator with a very small arm coming out of it. Its right below the secondary turbo's last intake pipe coupling right before it does a 90 degree turn down to the turbo. Cap off the vacumm lines. This will keep the passage way open.


-finally remove the vacumm line going to the secondary turbo's blow off valve (its called something else i think) which is right next to the charge control i just mentioned. Then Tee in a new vacumm line with the vacumm going to the other blow off valve. This will keep it from venting secondary boost before 4500rpms like it is suppost to.

Nothing i did is irreversible.
Sorry this was so long. Hope this helps.

Rotary93,

I've been asking around and some people say leave the precontrol door closed, others say leave it open. I currently have it closed. Do you know what the difference would be either way?

Maybe I'll try it opening it in a week or so to see if it feels different.

Thanks for the info.

Fd racer,
Any pics you can give me would be great:)

Heres a pic that might help. It shows how i wired (coat hanger) the turbo control door open to the actuator bracket. I plan to redo this all better when i go in and remove all the solenoids and vac lines that i dont need anymore.

Heres a pic that shows the blow off valves linked together and the charge control vac lines (blue ones) capped below. Again this will all get redone, as it is really poormans style right now.

Well, I finally answered my own question. I opened up the precontrol door and wired it in place. It seemed to help the boost build sooner. It definitly was'nt a night and day difference, but it did seem to be better this way.