10 reliability mods you must do!!!!!!
 

Greetings all!


At first, I wish to thank all of the guys on this forum for all of your helpfull
posts. I bought a 95 FD on may 11 . I was a complete idiot about rotary a few months
ago...But after endless night in front of my computer, digging this forum, I know my
car 1000 times better now .

Also, I learned so much that it cost me a couple of thousand in
reliability mods....Damn!!!! But this car worth it!!


Below is my list of the ten "Must do mods" for any new FD owners.


1-CAT BACK. This is a must unless you want a car that sound
like a vacum cleaner on steroid. Also give 10-15 HP.


2-DOWNPIPE. This item give a good HP gain (10-15) and remove a lot of heat in
the engine bay. And the sound of the turbos!!!!


3-INTAKE. 14 HP gain. Filtration is improved 10 times. Apexi is the
way to go unless you do racing. See how Apexi blow away the competition:
http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html


4-BOOST CONTROLLER. A must have items if you want to know how the
turbo are running. Buy one now!!!


5-ALUMINIUM AST TANK..The original little plastic tank will blow out
and drain all of your liquid. Big engine damage will occur!


6-ECU UPGRADE. A must do item if you have 3 mods+. Don't play with
engine detonation!!! Rotary are not like fucking V8 Mustang engines!!!


7-EFINI Y PIPE. This item has resolved a boost leek on my car.
The original rubber coupling is sucking like hell and always come
to a leak. This is a Great reliability mod and it give an additional
pound of boost


8-POLISHED ALUMINIUM INLET PIPE. These pipes replace the OEM rubber
accordion-style turbo inlet hoses. The OEM hoses are ribbed and promote
turbulence to the intake air to the turbos. The OEM hoses CRACK OR SPLIT
WITH TIME CAUSING BOOST PROBLEM.


9-TIE-RAPPED SILICONE HOSES: Replacing the rubber hoses with silicone is a major,
all day (usually multiple day) affair but it is needed as your car racks up the
miles (heat cooks the old lines and makes them brittle) and as your boost climbs
the likelihood of a hose blowing off goes up. You should be able to get the hoses
and tie-wraps for about $50.


10-HIGH FLOW CAT OR MID PIPE.The stock main cat doesn't flow very well so a high-flow
replacement will boost exhaust flow and aid turbo spool-up. If you go for the midpipe
check your boost!!!!!! You will also probably need to port your wastergate to avoid
boost creep.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also when you got your new FD don't forget to change all engine fluids!!

-Engine
-Coolant
-Transmission
-Differential
-Brakes

Etc.....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also:

-Lube your radio antenna.

-Do not rev the car when cold.

-Change engine oil every 2000 miles.

-Check engine oil level every 2 weeks (1 week if you ride a lot).

-Use demineralized water for engine coolant in a mixture of 60/40.

-Change this dirty fuel filter every 20.000 miles.

-Add 4 Oz of your engine oil in the gas tank. This will improve
the life of your rotary engine.



The mods on a FD are limitless (Some quys here know what I mean). But I
thing my mods list is great. Of course I may go over and over but I am not
a racetrack drivers (and I am not god) so I thing its enough for me.

Next mod??? hummmmmmmmm........Vented hood....1200$....Damn!!!!!!!!

Enjoy your FD all!!!

Serge

Congrats on the 95 FD!
Those are extremely rare to come by.

Now about those reliabilty mods...
Some of them aren't really "reliability" as they are performance.
But you have a very good idea about keeping the car cool and more reliable.

I must add that you get an upgraded Rad before you get a vented hood.

The stock rad has plastic end tanks that will crack and seep all the coolant out.
Fluidyne is the rad of choice.

Also the silicone hoses is something that isn't entirely clear.
I for one don't use the silicone hose. They're more prone to splitting than the stock hoses are. There was a comparison between rubber and silicone along with another type of rubber that one the competition. It's a special type of rubber that costs big bucks (with all the hoses we have....) but they're the best buy and will out live the life of the car. I forget what it's called but if you do a search you'll find it somewhere around here.

I think you should start investing in a strut tower brace along with upgrading the suspension (depending on the model you have). I noticed that the base suspension gets a little floaty with the stock springs and shocks. I had to replace the shocks because they were blown so I decided to do the whole suspension at the time.
The only thing that didn't work out the way that I planned were the bushings. For some reason the "Unobtanium" bushings just don't agree with my 94 FD. Aside from that the Ground Control and Koni shocks really stiffened the car. Not to mention the Suspension Techniques sway bars. The car is absolutely flat whenever you take a corner. There is zero roll. Just point and shoot.
You also shave off weight when you upgrade the suspension. The stock springs and shocks are heavy compared to the coilovers and Koni's.

Also, if you're going to get a lot of power mods it's best if you go with a full computer management ECU. The Power FC, PMS, and Haltech are the norm and this also elimanates the need for that separate boost controller.

I also noticed that you haven't touched the intercooler. The stock intercooler doesn't do much to remove heat. Alot of people get a bigger stock intercooler (preferably from M2) while others go full out and install a front mount.
This is a power mod that you will notice immediately. Especially if you have the rest of the stuff you mentioned in place....

Most importantly should be your brakes. I know it's not one of those "must get" parts but I think I should have done it immediately after I got the intakes and exhaust. The car just doesn't stop right with the stock pads and discs. Plan to upgrade them to rotors that are cross drilled and slotted. You don't nessasaryly have to go bigger, just a better rotor that will desisipate heat better (Brembo, AP?)

Other than the things that I mentioned the car is set to rip up the streets. :D

Later,

Viton. :)

hey serge comment ça va?

tu commence à aimer ta rx? :)

pour le hood appele chez Magnus Motorsport à Toronto, ils en font un de 8 lbs pour 550$ can.

Je risque d'en acheter un l'an prochain ou dans deux ans.

As tu fais tes hoses de silicone toi-même?

bye

puma

Thanks Jim....

I'm going to email you pretty soon in regards to those bushings....

Later,

Good List :-) I'd make a few changes additions and differentiate more between perforamnce and reliability. Intake wise, filtration will not improve 10 times with an aftermarket and is more likely to decrease. The tests you referred to are for aftermarket intakes and it doesn't consider the stock element at all. Plus, the heat of the air has to be considered and the Apexi is a hot air setup.

Radiator upgrades(mazdacomp, fluidyne, etc.) must be listed and lots of people do an AST elim. Its not just the plastic endtanks of the stock setup but also the improved thickness that an upgrade will offer. I think you also meant boost gauge not boost controller. Water/Oil Temp gauges should also be considered since the stock temp gauge is not very helpful.

Synthetic tranny and diff fluids are a must and a good synthetic for the engine should also be considered(redline, mobil 1, and royal purple are the most widely used). Water Wetter is also a common coolant additive. Pre-mix is generally not needed although getting some Protek from pettit won't hurt either. Main cats are fine reliability wise. The only problems I've heard is from people whose pre-cat has disintegrated and clogged up the main cat as a result. Some shops recommend leaving them in for reliability reasons since the restriction helps keep boost under better control.

Don't forget the fan mod.

did i not see boost gauge as #1????!!!??? thats my personal first mod...then turbo timer....then the list...but the list never ends...it dosent stop @ 10

wonder what # haltec& single turbo are?:D

Re: 10 reliability mods you must do!!!!!!
 

2-cycle oil would be a better idea. Marvel Mystery Oil is the premix of choice. I don't think engine oil in the gas tank would be the best thing, since it won't really mix consistantly and will probably fuck up the fuel filter pretty bad.
~Tom

Your'e right
 

Greetings,


Yes you're right I forgot The fluidyne radiator and intercoller. The suspension is fully upgraded on my car with 1.5 inche lower shocks. The car handle like a bedrock in corners.

Serge

Hey Puma!
 

Ca va très bien et toi?


Oui je commence a aimer ma RX 7 pas mal. J'ai juste
fait 2500 km cet été avec mais je commence a
comprendre la nature de cette bête.

"As tu fais tes hoses de silicone toi-même?"

.........Oui calis.........Et j'ai eu les mains en sang
pendant 2 semaines....Damn it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ma FD est en hybernation dans le garage et ca me
fait chier pas mal....Mauditte hiver.

As tu une photo du hood de Magnus???

Serge

Little confused about number 8, I don't think a crack in the turbo inlet hose won't cause a boost problem but a collapsed one sure will. If you mean the hose between the turbo and intercooler, and the intercooler and the intercooler and throttle body, ya that's a good one to upgrade.

I'd really like some polished intake pipes (filters to turbos), has anyone done it themselves with some aluminum or know of a cheaper source than m2 or rx7fashion?

ABSOLUTLY - no Engine oil in the gas, - 2stroke or MMO only, they are designed to mix with fuel and burn clean - engine oil isnt - also any pre-mix will lower fuel octane rating so don't over do it. the stock oil injector is actually ok for any legal level of street driving

... is for rich people...:D

Also - the downpie is both a performance & relialabile mod - it moomoves the hot exhaust out of the engine faster, lowers turbo housing temps and under hood temps - for even more under hood temperature reduction wrap the downpipe with ThermoTec or other high temp insulation material - My M2 DP is ThermoTec'ed and I can actually touch things under the hood after driving the car now - I guessing 50 - 75 deg cooler under the hood now.

You can add the CWC Oil Cooler kit and a J&S Knock sensor to that list. Also, temp guage.

je viens de m'informer pour le hood, il semblerait qu'il n'en vend plus, ils étaient trop cheap :(

Moi je vais esseyer de modifier le miens. Je vais aller voir un body shop.

puma