wont start after rebuild
 

Got my motor back from defined autoworks in groveport ohio yesterday and since then I have been trying day and night to get it started everything is installed i've went threw everything seriously 12 or more times making sure everything is installed correctly with no luck. 1 issue I have had a problem with is finding where the pressure sensor hooks up to I know its a vacuum line but I can't seem to find the right vacuum (I guess) and it has oil pressure full coolant. Motor has 0 miles on it, I have been buying parts left and right trying to trouble shoot the problems I have brand new plugs new lower/mid/and upper intakes new throttle bodies new injectors nothing is working anyone have any ideas? please and thank you.

Slow down there buddy. You may know this, but I'll assume you don't, so bear with me:

Do you have spark? Check by holding each plug wire (spark plug end) near a ground (NOT near the battery). Check all of them. Is there a spark? Oh, also check that you're running the wires correctly. The leading coil is near the headlight. Those plugs go to bottom spark plugs. The coil has L1 and L2 on it. L1 is front rotor, bottom plug. L2 is Rear rotor bottom plug. The trailing coil is near the firewall. Has T1 and T2...top front and top rear rotor respectively. When you put the CAS in, did you line up the gear dimple and housing arrow with the engine at 0 deg.? Take out and check. While the CAS is out, spin it while plugged in with ign. on. You should hear the fuel injectors clicking. May need an auto stethoscope. So check that.

Do you have fuel? Jumper the yellow test connector near the AFM and intake snorkel. Turn on ignition. You should hear the fuel pump whirring and after a few seconds you'll hear fuel moving inside the fuel rails and returning back to the tank.

Did you maybe switch the two fuel lines going to the rat's nest (from the filter and the return)? But I believe it should still start if they're switched.

GL and update. Stop spending $ and swapping parts...do a lil' more diagnosis. Get the FSM if you don't already have it...has a troubleshooting section that helps a lot.

I once spent a lot of time on an '87 that didn't start. Ended up being the fuel ballast resistor below the air filter. Wasn't sending 12V to one of the primary injectors (the computer fires them by supplying ground). Would have solved it much quicker if I knew about the spinning CAS back then.

Oh, and make sure you don't have a huge vacuum leak...like the 1/2" (?) hose to the bottom of the snorkel (between AFM and TB) disconnected.

And it helps to have someone else (even if they know eff all) look around and ask you about disconnected plugs or hoses or nipples without a hose on them. You've been staring at it so long, the prob is prolly right there staring back.

Got fuel? Got spark? Got Milk? The engine will try to start without oil or coolant but you don't want that...like osteoporosis.

I don't think the engine will start if the fuel lines are switched...I tried once.

Update on the motor put a little less than a teaspoon of 2 cycle oil in the spark plugs (trailing only) and it fired up first try but idle is at 2,000 rpm running smooth going to adjust the tps and check for vacuum leaks to get the idle down

update number 2 got the car running right and water pump went out leaking from bottom weep hole so have to wait till tuesday to get another one and hopefully all my problems will be fixed.

Nice! We're you able to bring the idle down? Still sound smooth?

Sealing off the vacuum leaks brought the idle down to 1500 but couldn't mess with it to much because of the coolant leak and don't want to risk anything with the motor being new