jjwalker

This is a how to on doing the window relay mod to your RX7, but using super easy and cheap DEI 451m modules. The 451 is normally used to integrate keyless entry to a vehicle using 5 wire door locks, but the thing is, it's just 2 20 amp relays in a single box.

To start off, I am going to identify the wire colors, the wires on the 451m, and how to hook it up.

This is what you need.

jjwalker

Here are the wire colors, what they do, and how you need to hook them up to the first 451m (driver side stuff for now).

The 451m has 8 wires. You need one 451m per window.

The wires on the car...

Red/black - driver side window up, cut this in half
Green/black - driver side window down, cut this in half
Black - ground
Black/red - 12v switched accessory

Wires on the 451m and what they need to connect to on the car

Red - small wire, ground it
Green - small wire, connect to the red black wire on the switch side.
Blue - small wire, connect to the green black wire on the switch side.

White/black - ground this wire.
Green/black - connect this wire to the red/black wire on the motor side.
Brown/Black - ground this wire.
Blue/Black - Connect this to the green/black wire on the motor side.

There is also a violet and violet/black wires coming off the 451m, and they become common at the 15 amp fuse. Connect these to the Black/red wire on the car.

Here is what a 451m looks like.

jjwalker

So all of the above will take care of the driver side window, no on to the passenger side.

It is the exact same as the driver side, but 3 wires are different.

Red/white - window roll up, cut this wire in half
Green/white - window roll down, cut this wire in half
Black/blue - switched 12v accessory

Just replace these wires with the red/black, Green/Black and Black red wires mentioned above.

Do keep in mind, to eliminate all current going through both switch panels, you need to do the driver side window mod in the driver door, and the second 451m in the passenger door. You CAN do them both in the driver door, but this only fixes the driver side switches. I chose to do mine both in the driver door, because I never use the passenger side switch, so it doesn't matter to me. Let me repeat, you have to put the passenger window motor 451m IN THE PASSENGER door to bypass all 3 switches.

jjwalker

And this is what it looks like when done. I did both of mine in the driver door, because like I said, i do not ever use the passenger side switch, so wasn't worried about it. Again, If you do not install the passenger side 451m switch bypass in the passenger door, the passenger side switch will still be the sole carrier of current to the motor when you use it. If you do both in the driver door panel, both driver side switches are relay bypassed.

jjwalker

I have people PM'ing me with questions, so I am curious why nobody has replied? Is this mod too damn easy?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed that this thread really hasn't received the attention it deserves. It's well written and in my opinion much more reliable than using conventional relays.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Wow...this is so much simpler than the other thread using multiple relays .
I'm trying this out .
The switch does get really hot when in use. This mod should alleviate the problem or any mod using a relay.
Buying my 451m's when done here.

Thanks for sharing.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I will be using this when my factory ones start giving me grief. Nice write up

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

Do it now! Using relays (which is what this accomplishes) alleviates the stress on those switches and can prolong switch life. I have brand new switches for my restoration, and they won't see any current until I have wired in relays.

jjwalker

I find it really REALLY hard to believe that more people haven't done this yet?

4 bosche style relays or using two of these? Which one is more difficult?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I don't remember much from the relay thread, but I believe on that thread, the bosch relays had 12V coming from the fuse block (or battery), where the PW switch was just activating the relays.

On any case, DEI was going to through an update on their model at the time I added the one touch feature to my FC, so I went with the autoloc:

One Touch Up And Down Window Unit - (Up AND Down) « autoloc.com)

Great write up BTW!

jjwalker

DEI makes a unit very similar called the 530T. I was going to go that route, but figured auto roll down and all of that stuff would be sacrilegious on such an old car...kind of like putting a 6 inch lift and knobby tires on a 1954 chevy truck.

Craze8

I am a big fan of one touch at least on the drivers door, considering everything I work on and drive other then the 7 all have one touch. good write up on the relay stuff.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

+1 chit I awesome!

jjwalker

I agree with you that is it is cool, just wouldnt do that myself.

The nice thing with the 530T is you can program it to your keyless entry system and press a button on whatever keyfob you have and the window go all the way up or down.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Archive material?

jjwalker

I am no forum god but why isn't this archived?

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

JJWALKER:
Could you use the 530T on both windows so they both can travel up/down with the remote?

I would essentially like to:

1. "alleviate" the switches
2. make the driver 1 touch and roll up both window when the alarm is active.

It seems that the 530T describes the second portion of this, but if I installed one on both doors, would it also "alleviate" the switches? or would I need to install a 530T on the driver door and just a 451m on the passenger?

jjwalker

530T in the driver door and 451m in passenger door.

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

That's what I was thinking the 451m would alleviate the passenger and the 530T would control the functions I want. I hope it can be programmed as an AUX function for the roll up.

There are times I leave my windows open a crack in the summer to let it air out, I would hate to always come back to an oven

jjwalker

Keep in mind, as I pointed out in the how-to, you CAN forego putting a 451m in the passenger door if you never use the passenger side switch. That is why I did both 451m's in my driver door as I never use the passenger side switch. So you could just use the 530T in the driver door and ignore the 451m if you wanted.

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

I appreciate that, but my girlfriend is always along for the rides so I will use in both just so I don't have to worry

jjwalker

Good idea, the rare occasion my wife is with me (we usually take her car because we have a 11month old daughter) I always remind her to not touch the passenger side window switch.

jjwalker

Oh oh, forgot to answer part of your question! For posterity...

The 530T will alleviate both window motors from the driver side of the car, if someone decides to use it. The 530T will give you auto roll up and down along with integration with keyless entry/alarm/remote start. If you choose to use the 530T you must use a 451m in the passenger side door to alleviate the passenger side motor from the passenger side switch.

Now, if you want to be able to roll up the windows using an AUX output from an alarm or whatever, you need to run a constant 12v source to inside the door. This can be easily done by tagging the ignition cylinders 12v constant wire. Since both window motors require 15 amps each, don't use a skinny wire to do this. If you don't, this function will only work if the ignition is on.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Well, since it's for posterity...

Fixed.