Window Electrical Problem Perplexing???
 

Window switch on passenger side rolls passenger window up and down no problem.
But the switch on the passenger side rolls it up but not down. I looked and cannot figure out what the problem would be... the owner that owned this before me was knob and could have done almost anything, can someone point me in the right dirrection.

I would guess your switch is going bad.. Not the connections but the plastic housing under the console.. My driver side switch did the same thing.. I pulled the door panel and found the plastic was split only on that side.. Hope this helps.. Have a Good Weekend,

Jimmy

bad drivers switch.

^ x2


all the current for the window motors goes through the driver's switch.


edit: well actually i take that back since the wording is a bit off, if the window is not rolling one direction with the passenger side switch that could be the problem switch. please correct your original statement so i know which switch is doing what.

Passenger switch works both up and down
Drivers switch works for rolling passenger window up However not for Down.

bad driver's window switch panel.

alright so here is another thing,
I installed relays in my windows, and before the drivers switch would both roll up and lower the passenger window, but
the passenger switch before the relay install would only lower it. Is there something corssed here?

that is a odd one, i will see if i can go over the wiring diagram to get an idea of what's happening unless Icemark happens back by this thread before then.

there is no relay wired in after the switches, i didn't trace it farther back up to the source but if there is a relay it only provides power for the whole system and shouldn't have affected the switch operation in one direction only(the whole system would be inoperative). i am going to stick with a faulty driver's switch, the only way to be sure would be to pull it out and ohm test it, even an ohm test can sometimes give false readings due to worn contacts(can have the proper resistance but not able to provide sufficient current because of corrosion).

the relays are only there to give full 12V power to the motor. they had an interesting effect on the system. by reversing which switch did not work... So that is why I ask that it must be something in the wiring or the soldering of the switches being backwards... or crossed or something.

as posted countless times... here it is again:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...?postid=118754

thanks IceMark, I did read in in my manual but I cannot figure out why adding the relays would have reversed the switch.
So here is a break down;
Before relays;
the passenger window switch would roll down window but not up,
The drivers switch would do both for both the passenger and drivers windows.
After Relays;
The passenger window switch would roll down and up the passenger window,
But the drivers now would roll the drivers up and down no propblem, however the passenger window would roll it up but now down.
Thank You
I have checked it but am lost. Any help you could give me beond the usual, it seems that this is a little odd.

there should be 12 volts at the circuit, adding relays would only be used to mask a high resistance problem if the motors were running slow. i would try removing the relays and fixing the main problem, your concern could be faulty relays or the relays could be backfeeding the system somehow, they are only complicating a simple circuit.


relays work to complete a circuit so unless he modified the path for elecricity then adding a relay wouldn't change anything, that or he added power to one side which would cause a problem with backfeeding through the everse side of the circuit. my thought would be to remove the hokey additions and start from scratch, hell you may not even have a problem without the relays there...

yes but the problem just reversed switches once the relays were added, there was still a problem. So I believe the problem existed with the wiring of the switches. However according the the fsm they apear to be correct.

Okay how do you have the relays in there???

It should be on the passengers window, you should have the relays in the passengers door, and wired as follows:

Cut the Red and Green wires coming from the passengers switch that go to the power window motor.

The Red wire coming from the switch, will go to 86 of the relay, the other side of the red wire (the side that is going to the motor) will go to 30 of the relay.

The green wire wires the same on on the 2nd relay.

Then on both relays, you will tap off the Black/blue wire, and attach the tap off wire to 87 of both relays. 85 and 87a of both relays will get ground (you will have to run a wire in to the door and ground it in the kick panel.

This turns the factory switches so that they only activate the relays and will eliminate any ground problems.

I have them hooked up exactly lik you had described with the exception that I don't have my grounds to the door inself.
But that still doesn't explain why one window switch will only do one operation IE down or up. and not the other. Then when i installed the relays it reversed and switched which switch had the problem.

With that set up, either switch would work the window up and down as long as the switches were good.

How do you have the grounds wired if you don't have them wired as I posted.

I have the earth from the relays pin 85 to the wire earth for the light in the door pannel.

You can't do that, that wire only has ground when the door is open and the circuit is not designed for more than 3 amps... the motors can draw up to 20 amps.

so I should undoo that earth and ground it to the door itself?
If I do this would it "most likely" fix my intermittent switch problem?
Thanks Mark for your help, I am getting Fed up with wiring. The previous owner hacked it pretty badly everytime I do something I end up fixing tones of his mistakes.

No you need to run a new wire in from the kick panel (where it would attach to a bolt on the body) then into the door.

The door itself is only grounded by proxy.

Your lucky it didn't work the way you had it. If it had, you would probably smoked the wiring or the dome light circuit/switches.

alright thanks Icemark,
I will change that, and hopefully it works, if not I will ressurect this thread.

Just to clarify in my mind, the circuit for lighting in the car is it not positive actuated and constant earth? this would mean that the worst that could happen is that I would heat up the smaller guage wire.... yes no?

The dome light circuit is constant 12 volts on one wire, and the other wire is switched to ground by the door switches.