Teck

So the check engine light came on earlier today after I left a stop a stop sign and it started bog down. Turned around and brought it home decided to look up how to get the codes. It pretty much did the same thing as shown on this video from another thread I found earlier while searching the forums.

My car is a 1989 automatic GTU. I just got it about a week before Christmas with around 59k miles. The car itself looks and has run well since I got it and only problems I've had and fixed were changing the belts, new o-rings on the oil filter pedestal, and new tires because the old ones were pretty much gone.

Just a few more details of what happens:
-When I first start up the car the check engine light is not on.
-Once I drive and hit around 20mph/soon after it shifts I encounter the problem (similar to the video)
-This is also when the light decides to come on and stays on.
-Car doesn't stall but continues to limp
-I only tried it once when I first encountered the problem but might help to know that when I pushed the 'HOLD' button down the car seemed to run fine. Once off it started to bog down again.

As far as checking the codes, I followed the steps on here but the only thing that seems to happen is when I set the key to the 'on' position it will go out for a second then it comes on and stays on. Tried grounding it to different parts of the car but same results except for one time. Can't recall where we tried grounding the cable to but the light went out when the key was first put into the 'on' position then came back on for a fair bit of time and went away again but it was nothing like what I had seen in another video of a guy showing his check engine error codes. The amount of time on before going away was good deal longer than what the '10 count' on the video showed. It looped this long check engine light pause a couple of times and then it went back to staying on with no luck trying to reproduce any kind of blinking again.

Any help I can get is appreciated

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

You answered your own question:

10

intake air thermosensor (AFM) broken wire,

short circuit intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F)

Check to see if it's plugged in or not.

Teck

I hope it is but I found it strange because of how long it took to the whole 10 count flash and then not being able to reproduce any sort of code. I will check it tomorrow when I have time though to see if that's it.

Teck

Been gone most of the day but my dad decided to check it out earlier. He mentioned the connection was pretty dirty so he cleaned it up and put it back. Check engine light still came on and problem continued according to him. Thinking about going to the store tomorrow to see if getting a new one and replacing it will fix it.

Teck

Ordered the part and it finally came in today. Took old one out, put new one in and... check engine light still comes on. Tried checking the code again but after setting the key on the 'on' position it goes away for a second then just stays on like before. Again had no luck reproducing any kind of blinking from it.

While driving it the check engine light won't come on if you just barely give it gas. I was in my neighborhood so I just slowly let it pick up speed and it had no problem getting to 30mph. Came to a stop to make a right turn and this time give it some gas. As soon as it gets around 20 mph/shifts the engine light comes on and the car doesn't seem to want to leave 2k rpm even if you give it gas.

Any ideas besides finding a diagnostic machine to wire it to?

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two intake thermosensors. Which one did you replace?

Teck

Replaced the AFM

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Or you have a bad connection AT the AFM.

Issue I'm working on, check engine light code indicated water thermo sensor. The sensor was just fine, but the plug that goes onto it isn't. My project for this weekend.

Teck

The connection seems to be good but after some more searching we think it might be the omp. I took the car to a friends shop yesterday and after reading up on the omp possibly being the problem I decided to leave it there since it was pretty late already to take a look. I probably won't have time to go back till Monday but I was hoping to get some feedback on replacing the omp if its bad with either a new or used one or just going the premix route.