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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
(Post 11232802)
That's not very nice. Any car can be fixed with patience, knowledge, and effort. The usual issue is money.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11232950)
I'm sure his response was based on the post before his, which mentioned replacing a number of items.
i still am sticking to my guns, check the secondary injector clips, takes a few minutes and i'm wondering why it hasn't been done already. sometimes it feels like i'm pulling teeth.. it doesn't cost a dime. a TPS issue would cause other symptoms along with the brick wall at 4k. a loose secondary injector clip usually results in both secondary injectors not firing which causes the severe lean condition that usually causes this. grounding issues usually result in a severe stutter at 4k but power is regained after the injectors have fully staged where the clip issue feels like a severely clogged cat, engine struggling to get beyond 6k. |
Some stuff can take seconds for an experienced mechanic to fix that could take an infinite amount of time for someone inexperienced.
Knowledge is power. |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11233022)
yes, it was laced with a bit of sarcasm. like everyone has access to plentiful used parts, if someone went out and bought all new parts that list would equal several thousand dollars and still likely wouldn't fix the issue.
i still am sticking to my guns, check the secondary injector clips, takes a few minutes and i'm wondering why it hasn't been done already. sometimes it feels like i'm pulling teeth.. it doesn't cost a dime. a TPS issue would cause other symptoms along with the brick wall at 4k. a loose secondary injector clip usually results in both secondary injectors not firing which causes the severe lean condition that usually causes this. grounding issues usually result in a severe stutter at 4k but power is regained after the injectors have fully staged where the clip issue feels like a severely clogged cat, engine struggling to get beyond 6k. |
update.
replaced the following: -engine main relay -circuit opening realy -new TPS and adjusted - all ignition coils -ignition switch ive checked the MAF and followed the check procedures via FSM and it check out okay. car starts and dies right after. i see RPM needle bump when i starts %100 of the time but when its cranking and it doesnt start i dont see no needle bump. ive checked the injector clips and they are okay. im running out of ideas on how to fix this problem hmmmm any suggestions |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11232950)
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1M-.93V 1N-5.33V 1P-5.34V 1Q-5.35V 1T-5.35V 1U-8.36V 1V-.01V 1X-0 2B-8.19V 2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90 2D-4.14V 2E-8.63V 2F-7.89V 2G-5.20V 2H-8.20V 2I-6.14V 2J-6.14V 2L-8.16V 2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3B-1.63V 3C-11.55V 3D-1.62V 3E-11.45V 3F-11.45V 3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3H-11.44V 3I-11.44V 3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM |
Originally Posted by drifter_xs
(Post 11240067)
i checked some of the pin at the ECU with the key position ON and this is what i found. FSM 4A CONTROL UNIT PAGE 4A-31
1M-.93V 1N-5.33V 1P-5.34V 1Q-5.35V 1T-5.35V 1U-8.36V 1V-.01V 1X-0 2B-8.19V 2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90 2D-4.14V 2E-8.63V 2F-7.89V 2G-5.20V 2H-8.20V 2I-6.14V 2J-6.14V 2L-8.16V 2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3B-1.63V 3C-11.55V 3D-1.62V 3E-11.45V 3F-11.45V 3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3H-11.44V 3I-11.44V 3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM |
Originally Posted by drifter_xs
(Post 11240067)
i checked some of the pin at the ECU with the key position ON and this is what i found. FSM 4A CONTROL UNIT PAGE 4A-31
1M-.93V 1N-5.33V 1P-5.34V 1Q-5.35V 1T-5.35V 1U-8.36V 1V-.01V 1X-0 2B-8.19V 2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90 2D-4.14V 2E-8.63V 2F-7.89V 2G-5.20V 2H-8.20V 2I-6.14V 2J-6.14V 2L-8.16V 2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3B-1.63V 3C-11.55V 3D-1.62V 3E-11.45V 3F-11.45V 3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD 3H-11.44V 3I-11.44V 3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM |
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok. if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak. |
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
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To answer your other thread question (which is related to this thread)...
Voltage on 3J is supplied from the battery according to page 50-29 of the FSM (Which is easy to find on the FAQ in this section). Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11240747)
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok. if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11240757)
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
what should i look for since the car starts and holds idle? anything you want me to look at in particular? but i will add a extra ground to that pin tho ooh and thanks again and sorry |
Originally Posted by wvumtnbkr
(Post 11240880)
To answer your other thread question (which is related to this thread)...
Voltage on 3J is supplied from the battery according to page 50-29 of the FSM (Which is easy to find on the FAQ in this section). Hope this helps. |
The "9" don't matter. Look for the bl/W wire on the FEM-02 plug. I believe it hooks up with a Bl/R wire. Check to see if you have voltage on either of these.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it. Just a thought. Good Luck! Rob R. |
Did the OP ever check to make sure his trailing coils were going to the correct plugs?
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11240747)
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok. if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11240757)
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
Originally Posted by wvumtnbkr
(Post 11242048)
The "9" don't matter. Look for the bl/W wire on the FEM-02 plug. I believe it hooks up with a Bl/R wire. Check to see if you have voltage on either of these.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it. Just a thought. Good Luck! Rob R.
Originally Posted by Jet-Lee
(Post 11244974)
Did the OP ever check to make sure his trailing coils were going to the correct plugs?
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post 10 told you it was the earth issue .. and you ignored it till it was rammed repeatedly...yet every single search on hestitation would have listed it as number 1 cause
... you have fixed it on top of the engine.. but you WILL find its not the full fix .. as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one ) and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case |
Originally Posted by bumpstart
(Post 11246159)
post 10 told you it was the earth issue .. and you ignored it till it was rammed repeatedly...yet every single search on hestitation would have listed it as number 1 cause
... you have fixed it on top of the engine.. but you WILL find its not the full fix .. as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one ) and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case |
Had the same problem as you described. Pulled my hair out chasing it. Tried everything. Fixed it today and rotary eve mentioned it early in this thread. Check the secondary injector fuel injector clip. To test this I disconnected the fuel injector wire to the injector that closest to the firewall it ran poorly as you described. Resided a new clip and it now runs like a champ. I've been chasing this for 3 months!
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Originally Posted by 87FCna
(Post 11232182)
Replace omp,ecu,tps at the same time.
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