what's the proper starting/warm-up procedure?
 

When I start the car, it jumps to 3k for a few seconds. I wait for it to drop back down, then I drive off, trying to stay below 3k until it's warmed up. After I park, I let it idle for about 15-30 sec. and turn it off.

Am I doing things right?

This may seem dumb to some of you, but I've only owned my fc for 2 months, it has a low mileage motor, and I can't really afford to rebuild it any time soon, so I want to be as cautious as I can and make this engine last for a while.

btw, I know there's more to preventive maintainence (sp?) than this.

no need to let it idle after driving, but other than that you are fine with what you are doing

ok, thanks

I'm a bit anal about warming up. On every vehicle I have, all of them have a high-idle cold-start-up. I wait several minutes, atleast until I see the temp needle above the "c" and then I run it "easy" until it's at the middle. But, like I said... I'm anal about it.

im the same way,i let my rx7 warm up for at least 5-7 min,ive never driven it cold but ive put it in gear and the rev goes up and down a little bit,i'd suggest always letting the car worm up

There is absolutely no need to let the engine warm up before driving it. Just like with any other car, as long you just keep the revs and load down until it's at operating temp you're not doing any damage.

Just wait for the oil pressure to build b4 u go

Start it with trans in 1st gear. It will keep the high revs down to a minimum. This high RPM start up was only done to warm the precat quickly and lower emissions.

Yeah, i'd say the 3000 RPM startup is doing more harm than good. I always start in gear so it doesnt do that. For warmup, the most you really need to do is maybe idle for 30 seconds or so, then just don't lay into the power till she's at operating temp.
Quote from someone else: - This is especially important on rotaries compared to piston cars, and even more so for the turbos. This is because of the stacked plates nature of the engine. The torque spec for the tension bolts takes thermal expansion of all the parts into account, so that the right amount of tension is applied when everything is hot. When everything is cold, there is less tension holding everything together and you increase the chance of popping a seal when you lay into the power.

ok, thanks

It takes about two seconds after starting to reach steady oil pressure...

As mentioned, there's no need to warm up a stock RX-7. Start the car, put on your seatbelt, then drive away.

However if you have done something stupid like removing the cold start cam/thermowax, then you're on your own...

Ya but I've seen honda poeple drive as soon as they start it, revvin it hard.

I just drive and go!! But I just use my 7 in the summer.

exactly ;)

Doesn't it (potentially) do damage to the engine to rev it @ 3000 before the oil has a chance to properly circulate?


Are you talking about the the coolant injection thing for winter?

No, the cold start cam raises the engine speed up when the engine is cold. This isn't the 3k startup thing, it only raises a little over 1k.

hm i start the car, see if it idles (carb) and if it does i drive off, i do happen to rev it pass 3k sometimes, but not with major load, i just creep it up there occassionally forgetting to sw gears, since i am also running on only 2 spark plugs, my car doesnt make power until then, it moves a bit more.

why is that Aaron? i thought that i was ok to remove the thermowax or disconnect it, isnt it? could you please explain or link it for me please. thanks.

What the fuck?

the car would not want to idle when it is cold...
i dont see why anyone would want to do it... NA or turbo.

IMO, it's best to cancel the 3000 RPM start (put it in gear. If it won't idle when it's cold, put it in and out of gear until it will, letting the CSA rev it up a bit but not to 3000 RPMs), then don't give it too much throttle (a cold engine has very bad gas mileage, among other reasons), and don't rev it past 3500 or so until the engine temp goes up (cold oil doesn't lubricate as well...let the car warm up first).

In other words, I just let it warm up long enough that it'll idle without using the 3000 RPM start, and then wait for it to be at operating temperature (half-gauge for S5, 1/4th for S4) before using any heavy throttle or high RPMs.

Now if you're at a track and want to cool off after a run, open the hood and let the car idle... don't just shut it off (and don't use the parking brake).

Wtf does the e brake have anything to do with that? Just curious (mainly because i know it doesnt ;) )

If you've used your brakes heavily, they will be extremely hot, and putting the ebrake on after a hard session is known to warp rear rotors.