I'm trying to figure out what the best kit is for my t2, so far I've come up with innovate lc-1 , or ngk afx.

I'm getting all kind of mixed opinions and research is pretty much opinion based so i don't know what's the best option.

I'd like the innovate for the price and options, but quality and accuracy is a concern.





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Aem failsafe! Its a wideband and boost gauge in one. And you can trigger a failsafe with it like boost cut or water injection at a programmable boost or air fuel ratio.

Most people consider the Horiba MEXA-730 Lambda to be the best UEGO analyzer.

If quality and accuracy are a concern, then why are you looking at the cheapie units? :scratch:

I wouldn't call the LC-1 a cheapie unit. It is what I use on my Megasquirted 330Ci and it's what my MS setup guy uses in his car.

We both have ours permanently installed and they work great. Excellent customer service as well.

Innovate is good bang for the buck and they have many different options.

having owned the innovate unit, i think i'd get the NGK. i'm not really a fan of the bosch sensor

bingo, its the sensor that is the single most important thing in this equation

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the Bosch sensor? They have been very consistent and long-lived for me.

I'm using a LC-1 and have never had problems with it (other than having to replace the sensor once, but that's not all that surprising...)

I'd recommend getting a heat sink like this for any wideband you put on a turbo rotary:

Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

my experience is dated, but the NTK sensor is a little quicker, and more robust

Dang that heat sink is $90 , so.much money ..my rx7 is like a high maintainence gf, needs all the best stuff lol

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Is there any kits besides the ngk afx that use the ngk sensor

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Just run an extended bung and make a heat sink out of a piece of bent copper.

how would I do that , I was just going to put it in the stock o2 spot

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The wideband sensor needs to be mounted further way than the factory o2 sensor. Usually in the manual it says how far to mount it and at what angle. Maybe some can be mounted in the factory location? I don't think so though.

I would like to think if you are installing an o2 sensor it means your car isnt stock.

Usually the dp is changed, just get a bung welded in the right spot, or use one of those aem clamps

its not stock but why can't I use the wideband for the stock ECUs reading and to.see on my wide and gauge? I'd rather not use this dp I have to get a bung welded in , I'd rather replace it.

here u can see why.

I've had to grind the welds.to.get it to bolt u.and it still needs more.grinding ..I wanna replace it but as u can see in my other pic my exhaust was ghettoed by the PO so its harder to do than it should be to replace the dp

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all of these wideband sensors are OE sensors to start with, so they can be mounted in the stock spot.

Yep, nothing wrong with mounting it in the stock spot. And there is plenty of room to put a big copper "wing" heat sink in there.

I've had the NGK AFX for a good while. I opted to follow the instructions and mounted it within the 12" to 36" range away from the engine. Cost me a whole 30 bucks to have an O2 sensor boss welded on which also included a plug/bolt. The sensor is a wear item and the distance away from the engine is to maximize sensor life while getting accurate (undiluted) readings. The copper thing sounds like it could work, but I haven't tried it myself.

For this application, practically any of them will do. The Innovate LC1 seems to have some heater control issues, which is why they sell that heatsink. Basically, they blame you for their shitty controller.

As for the Bosch vs NTK/NGK sensor, again you wouldn't notice the difference from the sensor itself. They all need backpressure compensation, and none of the units in question here do it, so they're all wrong.

Evil Aviator makes a good point recommending the lab-grade stuff. The Horiba unit he mentioned is going to be used among Japanese companies. American companies use an ECM or Bosch/ETAS lambda meter, and the Germans use Bosch/ETAS. Or the air fuel ratio can be calculated from a gas analyzer. Those systems cost more than most 2nd gens are even worth.

With the price of the heat sink its the same price as the ngk afx.

What the best route is I still have yet to figure out, I may just get the lc1 and the heat sink later on.

I'm still on my break in period so I won't have a need to.install it.until that's over.

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PLX AFR2 with DM6 is easy and cheap
.. has soft warm up.. self cal.. will display lambda or any fuel AFR
has 5V out for your ECU logging,, and 1V out to keep factory ecus with feedback happy
.. will watchdog alarm if you wish
also integrates with other PLX devices in serial hub and can be used with software for standalone data logging

PS ..the dm6 touch screen system is pretty cool.. the trend screen display is very handy

You go to the "scrap yard" often don't you?
grab a piece of copper sheet and drill enough so that you can put a 4-6 inch square in between the sensor and the downpipe.
Just look at how the heat sinks are made.It's not hard to do,just bend it,so that it dissipates heat.
Most of the WB O2's are mounted about 30 inches from the Turbo.
An O2 bung is 6 bucks.

what values can it.read.to.and.from ? I saw 11.6 to 17.6 on eBayin a pic but I'd think it has a wider range than that

on the other hand on a spec page I seen 10-20 which sounds normal.

what is lambda ?


PS. Thanks for your input, I like this widebamd and will probably get.it

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