What went wrong.. cracked rear iron
 

My car
1987 T2 4000 miles on streetported rebuilt by Kevin Landers
Microtech installed and tuned by "Rolo"
Car pulled 278 hp at 15psi afr of 11-3
all the stuff to support much more HP
Hybird turbo
1600 inj
93 octane fuel only
Fmic
Walboro
Lightened flywheel
act clutch

I did a 3rd gear pull and when I got home I noticed oil leakin from where the iron meets the housing. After much research I now know its the dowel pin cracked iron.
I would like to know what you guys think. The engine has only been in a couple of months I don't want to do this again.

280 is not that much Hp I don't want to have it doweled. I dont do clutch drops either.

I have talked to Kevin he has been helpful and made some very generous offeres. I do not think he is responsible for the break in any way.

I have not spoken to "Rolo" but I do not want to question his ability.

Im not looking to blame anyone but wiould like to prevent this in the future.

Johny Ligon

detonation, unfortunately it could have been the tuners fault but sometimes shit happens that is no ones fault...

This happened to my streetported NA I think because my tension bolts were coming loose. They only had 8 ft-lbs torque on them, and I torqued them to 28 when I assembled the block. I'm guessing the torque impulses against the dowel pins eventually stressed the hole to the point of cracking, and I had the same oil leak in the back right below the filter.

Check your tension bolt torque before you take them out. Blue locktite on the tension bolt threads when assembling has cured the problem for me.

*edit* wow that's a nice sig! Oh yeah!

the s4 rear iron has a weak spot. same thing happened to a local guy 3 times in a row now. bdc is flying out to rebuild and tune it.

They thing it detonated due to intake temps and a poor tune.

:(

hybrids make make more heat too so i hear. something about the backpressure backing up into the motor and going backinto the intake stroke and heating the charge.

www.coolingmist.com

Odd, Rolo at CFT tuned my MT and cracked the front housing in the same spot. (last Firday) I'm just taking a stab in the dark here but, it could of been his 3 pulls at 25+ psi that did it. I too don't want to point fingers, only make sure it never happens again. Really not sure why the car was boosted to 25+ psi 3 times in a row as I made it clear that max boost to be 14psi....weird.

too much or bad timing ...

Sounds like the tuners fault to me. He should have limited it to less boost. If he couldnt limit it due to hardware reasons, he shouldnt have done 3 pulls.

I find that hard to believe... are you sure you torqued them correctly?
I torqued my engine, to 28, waited a while, retorque it to 28, etc etc.

locktite wasnt used... and you shouldnt either! a better assembling technique might be in order

Lol.. did you miss the part where he says Kevin Landers assembled it?! This could get interesting if he sees this thread.

True statement. I have been running over 350 on my S4 with NO streetport and had no problems. *DISCLAIMER* I do spray alcohol to control knock.

I am not going to say anything derogatory, and Karack kinda of alread hit on this point, but it really sounds like you got detonation. Thats what generally causes that kind of break. Was there any audible knocking? I seriously doubt that it was any fault of Kevins, although knowing him, he probably feels in someway responsible even though he cant control what people do to his motors once they leave his shop.

This thread is back from the dead. I think HIMNI racing brought it back, prolly after doing a Rolo search.

TO CLEAR THINGS UP;

The engine Kevin built for me did NOT have loose tension bolts, that was 88 intragals engine.

I sent the engine back to Kevin he sold me an S5 rear iron and installed it for the cost of materials only I felt this was very fair, and If I was to have another engine rebuilt I'd have Kevin do it.

I recently had Steve Kan retune the car making 305 rwhp. I still don't know the cause of the cracked iron I can only speculate now, The s4 irons do infact have a weak spot in the rear iron

While it's always fun to rattle Kevin's cage, please don't do it at my expense.

Johny

I wasnt the one trying to rattle Kevins cage, it was slpin.

quoted you for stupidity. and elementary reading skills.

Umm, pretty sure I read this:

And then I read this:


Either way, I am not getting into a flame war with your pathetic ass.

scroll up, and re-read everything

looks like you were the one that accused kevin landers

i accused 88integra

maybe if you could read a little better, i could teach you how to drive better than mid 12s with a 115 trap.

Last time I checked sub 2sec 60fts speak for themselves.

If we're thinking of what im thinking of (the upper corner of the rear iron), then its just an unfortunate weak spot on the engine. if you notice it's beefier on the S5 than S4 and even beefier on the FD engine. good luck getting everything fixed man.

I said 25 psi. Latter found it is was 43.4 psi from the profec spec II. Mine was a S5 engine.

Some s5's engine had reinforcements along the rear dowel, which sometimes moves the crack to a different dowel area. But 25 psi and 43psi is a hell of a differnce lol, that's a lot damned air (hot too!)

airing up a tire? lol

Anyone besides me think 11.3 AFR's is kinda lean?


-Ted

just you.

Buuuuuuurrrrr...that was cold...

I guess you just called Rolo, one of the best Microtech tuners, a crappy tuner due to his shitty ignition maps.


-Ted

And we're done here...The thread is 8 months old.