Wierd problem...
04-15-17, 07:54 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Wierd problem...
I've got a 90 GXL with over 343k miles. Today, as I was driving, when I hit the brakes the radio temporarily cut-off then went back on again. It would do this every time I hit the brakes. The alt gauge showed that the battery was being charged. It did this once before a couple weeks ago. I was driving to work on a cold rainy morning. Had many accessories on (i.e., wipers, defroster, headlights, radio) and when I hit the brakes the radio would cut out. Also, the alt would drop to 12 volts. Battery is an Interstate that's only about 3 years old. Not sure why it happened today since alt was charging. Anyone ever have a problem like this? Any ideas? Perhaps a bad alternator?
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 04-15-17 at 08:00 PM.
04-15-17, 09:33 PM
#2
It could be a few things... First thing I'd say is to check out what kind if condition your tail lamp harnesses are in. Make sure your grounds are good.
The factory voltage gauge can lie.. Break out your meter and see what the alternator is pumping out at idle with no loads, then turn on all the lights, max blower, radio, defroster, wipers, etc and see what happens.
If those check out, pull the radio and check it's harness for damage.
It's likely your alternator. The FC uses five incandescents for brake lights, which is quite a lot considering how pitiful the standard alternator is when it's already barely running the engine and accessories.
My alternator functions properly and sometimes when I'd brake at low engine speeds (sub 2,000), one or both of my amps would shut off. I recently went to led bulbs in the rear of the car and it has bandaided this problem. That is not however why I went to led bulbs. When you spend the money and get quality units, they blow incandescents out of the water for brightness, intensity, and a really really rich color.
The factory voltage gauge can lie.. Break out your meter and see what the alternator is pumping out at idle with no loads, then turn on all the lights, max blower, radio, defroster, wipers, etc and see what happens.
If those check out, pull the radio and check it's harness for damage.
It's likely your alternator. The FC uses five incandescents for brake lights, which is quite a lot considering how pitiful the standard alternator is when it's already barely running the engine and accessories.
My alternator functions properly and sometimes when I'd brake at low engine speeds (sub 2,000), one or both of my amps would shut off. I recently went to led bulbs in the rear of the car and it has bandaided this problem. That is not however why I went to led bulbs. When you spend the money and get quality units, they blow incandescents out of the water for brightness, intensity, and a really really rich color.
04-15-17, 10:10 PM
#3
your not kidding about the rear bulbs sucking amps, I got s5 tails on my s4 but with a FD alternator, if I got the headlights on, and am holding the brakes, I can watch my stock amp gauge DROP and the headlights get dim
always wondered if there was actually a fix to it
always wondered if there was actually a fix to it
04-16-17, 06:10 PM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
It could be a few things... First thing I'd say is to check out what kind if condition your tail lamp harnesses are in. Make sure your grounds are good.
The factory voltage gauge can lie.. Break out your meter and see what the alternator is pumping out at idle with no loads, then turn on all the lights, max blower, radio, defroster, wipers, etc and see what happens.
If those check out, pull the radio and check it's harness for damage.
It's likely your alternator. The FC uses five incandescents for brake lights, which is quite a lot considering how pitiful the standard alternator is when it's already barely running the engine and accessories.
My alternator functions properly and sometimes when I'd brake at low engine speeds (sub 2,000), one or both of my amps would shut off. I recently went to led bulbs in the rear of the car and it has bandaided this problem. That is not however why I went to led bulbs. When you spend the money and get quality units, they blow incandescents out of the water for brightness, intensity, and a really really rich color.
The factory voltage gauge can lie.. Break out your meter and see what the alternator is pumping out at idle with no loads, then turn on all the lights, max blower, radio, defroster, wipers, etc and see what happens.
If those check out, pull the radio and check it's harness for damage.
It's likely your alternator. The FC uses five incandescents for brake lights, which is quite a lot considering how pitiful the standard alternator is when it's already barely running the engine and accessories.
My alternator functions properly and sometimes when I'd brake at low engine speeds (sub 2,000), one or both of my amps would shut off. I recently went to led bulbs in the rear of the car and it has bandaided this problem. That is not however why I went to led bulbs. When you spend the money and get quality units, they blow incandescents out of the water for brightness, intensity, and a really really rich color.
My existing rebuilt alternator is almost 2-1/2 years old. My existing Interstate battery (60 month warranty) is almost 3 years old.
I just bought a closeout rebuilt alternator from Rock Auto for $68 with no exchange. (I think that they had two left.) Thought that I'd keep it in the trunk, just in case. I also just bought a new positive battery cable.
I've been have problems with my alarm going off spontaneously. This has been going on for a many years. As a solution, I put quick disconnect switch on my negative battery terminal with new ground cable terminating at the starter. It's looking like I fixed my alarm problem when I recently replaced my driver's side outside door handle, but the battery quick disconnect switch may be my problem. It's a twist type quick disconnect switch and may not be making good contact sometimes. Will need to take a closer look at it.
Don't know for sure. With these old cars, anything is possible
Take care and have a great Easter weekend...what's left of it.
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 04-16-17 at 06:13 PM.
04-21-17, 01:36 PM
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just an update... Radio problem started up again last Wednesday. I had late afternoon doctor appointment. I left work early for my appointment and when I got to the doctor's office began to enter the underground parking garage. I turned on my headlights and the idiot lights came on dimly and then turned off. When turning into my parking spot, I hit the brakes and noticed that headlights (reflection off glass door) got really dim then brightened again. After appointment, got home without any issues. Next morning, got in the car to go to work and the battery was completely dead to the point where the courtesy light wasn't coming on.
So, I replaced the battery with same type (Interstate Battery) and also the alternator. I bought the alternator form Rock Auto about a week prior to this mishap. It is a USA Industries new alternator that was on closeout for $68 with no core required. For the last couple days, car seems to be back to normal. Haven't had any problems with the radio cutting out. Unlike the previous alternator, this alternator appears to be charging continuously at 13.7 volts. So, it appears that the culprit was my previous 2.5 year old alternator.
So, I replaced the battery with same type (Interstate Battery) and also the alternator. I bought the alternator form Rock Auto about a week prior to this mishap. It is a USA Industries new alternator that was on closeout for $68 with no core required. For the last couple days, car seems to be back to normal. Haven't had any problems with the radio cutting out. Unlike the previous alternator, this alternator appears to be charging continuously at 13.7 volts. So, it appears that the culprit was my previous 2.5 year old alternator.
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 04-21-17 at 02:32 PM.