what RPM should i drop the clutch
 

stupid question...but im curious to see what you N/A guys consider a good rpm to drop the clutch at a stop light? lets say your at the light and a honda with a fred durst wannabe pulls up? what RPM do you use for maxium launch. i have a vert, heavy, and a total pig on a hot day? BTW why do RX's suck so bad on a hot day?
need to get a electric fan or something.ok ..... lets see what you all say:D

don't drop the clutch. It's harder on the driveline, and your car will be slower.
I think the rotary makes too much heat, so the intake air gets really hot and the power really drops.

Any car will suffer on a hot day. If you have a proper cold air intake and aren't sucking air from the engine bay it won't make any difference that it's a rotary.

As for launch rpm, that will be different for every car so it's no use getting other peoples opinions. Engine mods, suspension set-ups, tyre choice, etc will all have a huge impact. You need to find out what works best for your car. Basically you want to find the point that causes just a tiny bit of wheelspin. If it bogs you're too low, if it spins you're too high. Experiment.

Hold the RPMs at around 3K and slip the clutch quickly while squeezing the gas. Dropping the clutch is the primary ingredient of gearbox soup. :)

yeah actually, any car will lose power on a hot day. It just seems to me that my rx-7 loses more power than my other car. Even if you have a cool air intake and everything the intake manifolds still heat up and the intake air will be very hot.

Yeah, ive noticed the intake manifolds do get really hot... saw this kid ricing out his civic this one night at the shop, was installing this rather thick plastic gasket between the manifold and the engine, it was supposed to keep the the manifold temps down... i wrote it off as rice, but what do you guys think, could something like that work?

I guess anything that isolates the manifold from the engine would help. But the bolts and studs that hold the manifold in place would still make a metal-to-metal path for the heat to conduct through. Probably minimal benefit.

I'd assume that launching a vert is pretty similar to launching any other n/a...

7500RPM, let the clutch out quickly but not instantly.. take maybe 1/3 - 1/2 of a second letting the clutch out.

and I don't care how hot the intake manifold is, if air is taking less than 1/2 of a second to go from one end of the intake to the other, it's not going to get much heat from it.

I forget what those gaskets are called, but it seems like they're all the rage these days. They do help, but .. really aren't worth the $$$ and hassle unless you need every last pony possible, or if you've allready got your LIM off..

They are called pheno-spacers. Yes they help. My friend is actually trying to get them made for our FCs.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=185631

Anyone interested should PM him and let him know. $100 really isnt expensive at all for a new mod..

oh ...so dont just drop the clutch.... let it off quickly but not suddenly. got it. no wonder i was smoking the tires and going no where fast. speaking of the intake temp.....why cant anyone out there make an all tube set up like they do for everyone elses car. i would like to get rid of that stock air tube in place of something better. can i use turbo pipes with the collars to fabricate something......or can i just buy a weapon r and modify it?

in nom technical terms you have to have that lame twisty straw intake tube because it connects to the air flow sensor right behind the air box. because the air flow rate and consequent fuel mapping are so important to preventing detonation (especialy on your TII) no one should mess with it unless they REALLY know what they are doing. thus the twistry straw stays because the air flow sensor does. as for the rest of it--just look at the fender well there is no where to snag cold air unlessyou drill a 4" hole in the sheet metal and take a pipe down under the headlights or in front of the radiator. so us poor fc's are stuck with a cone filter straped o to the air meter in place of the air box. alas.

^^ Ignore pretty much everything he said.

does anyone know if the Weapon -r system for our cars is all tube or just a lame filter and adapter setting?

That "lame twisty straw intake tube " (aka turbo inlet duct) is very easily replaced and has been done many, many FC's. No, you simply attach the AFM to a less twisty, less lame duct. Again, plenty of people have drilled holes or cut metal to run cold air duct to the filter or locate the filter outside the engine bay.

hold it at 7k slide your foot off the clutch .needed : good tires and good clutch you'll be fine

DO NOT go with the Weapon R system. My friend bought one a few weeks ago for his MR2 (AW11), that filter is the worst thing I think we ever did to his car. The power was nearly non-existant, the sound was just louder but nothing good. Since my baby is sitting right now until I get the money to make those pretty tags on the back. Anyway I put my Bonez filter on his car and...WOW. HUGE difference, the car not only sings, but it's noticeably faster. The mileage is better, it's just better all the way around. Do yourself a favor and just get the filter (either Bonez, APEXi, or Blitz...all very great). If you can get/make a box...it'll be worth it. Just don't go with the Weapon R...you will regret it once you get a chance to use a real intake.