what modification will i need?
 

I was just looking at a gt40 and was wondering what I would have to do to get this to fit into my FC with a jspec swap if there is going to be a space issue?

Well....

The GT40 is a 500+ HP capable turbo, so...

Full rebuild with a minimum of a street port. Preferably a bridgeport as in my opinion the GT40R (we won't even talk about the non ball bearing version) will be too laggy otherwise.

Fuel system to support those power levels. Large upgraded fuel pump (dual Walbros or large single like the Aeromotive), FPR, 720CC primaries/1680CC secondaries minimum, big filter, preferably a sumped tank or surge tank (or both).

Full standalone EMS to control it all, with associated wiring and tuning.

Big FMIC

New exhaust to handle the flow

Custom TID

Clutch to hold the power, as well as tires to actually get it to the ground (at only 13 PSI my car with a GT4088R will spin the tires through the first 4 gears).

There's probably a few things I'm forgetting....

Oh yeah, boost controller.

And then there's the GT40 itself. SpeedMachine sells a GT4088R kit that includes a manifold, wastegate, downpipe and misc. other stuff (fittings and the like) for $4999 .

Also the install labour if this is not something you can do yourself.

im getting a bridgeport for my tii. what fuel system should i run if im planning on a gt35r. im getting a pfc for ems. and have a full turbo back corksport power series exhuast. anything im missing to?

oh and a stage 3 act clutch.

peter!! power fc all the wayyy...banzai racings got the s4 adapter for it and its like 300 bucks and it plugs rite in and then group buys on zilvia get u the power fc for an fd which is the one that you need for an s4 for like under 800 bucks...try to find a group buy on here that it would be cheaper...jons already got the fuel maps for an fd on his comp. so youll save money on tuning it.

GT35R is too small for a bridgeport. Or to put it better, a bridgeport is too big for the 35R.

If you want to run a 35R, then stick with a street port. A bridgeport will be restricted far too much at the top end by the GT35.

A turbo more appropriate to a bridgeport is a the GT40R, GT42 and larger, T70, etc.

This is falling into a matter of opinion, but I say get a "real" standalone and not the PowerFC. I don't have any personal experience with the PowerFC, but half of the advantage of a standalone is replacing the 20 year old factory wiring with a new harness. In a high HP application, the factory wiring cannot be trusted.

lol I was thinking haltech E8 for my standalone and thanks for the helpful info. is a streetport going to starve a gt40 though? and yes I am kinda new to all the acronyms but what is a TID?

TID - Turbo Inlet Duct

Aaron, here's my question, how would a GT40R react to a PP? Actually, how many PP-T's have you even heard of?

thanks roen! I just want to do a gt40 cause it runs about the same price as a t04r does and free shipping. plus the bigger turbo I will stay out of boost a little longer conserve fuel in city driving

well it all depends on what you want to do with your car too so make sure your turbo is going to be within your ideal rpm range

is there a seperate mani and wastegate I can get any websites you guys know of? kits are expensive the turbo right now I found is $869 shipped

I think I am going to go with the full fuel system upgrade from jegs for 1250+shipping

whoa wait a minute. Since when does Jeg's sell a fuel system kit specific for our cars? got a link? IMO you're better off piecing together your own kit. that $1200 may include too much of one kind of fitting/hose and too little of another.

For this kind of power level, would 6AN suffice? or is it time to step up to 8AN line?

good point. it does come with all the wiring, zip ties, fuel filter, AFPR, and aeromotive A1000 pump and i believe a good amount of braided line and 6an fittings

i remember aaron saying i think either 6a or 8a can support 800hp. does the jegs kit come with new fuel rails? if not i think it would be cheaper to put it together yourself

If hes getting the one off jegs then it wont.

kgparts.com has the fuel rails and fittings you would need.

The Apexi Power FC is a "real" standalone, as stated you do not have any experience with the PFC so you should not be handing out any opinions on it..

Are you kidding me? The advantage of a standalone is having full tuneability, you really think half of the advantage is a harness, boy are you missing the idea. Do you have any idea how many bad Microtech and Haltec installs I see every year? DOZENS

Any idea how many bad PFC installs? NONE, why because it is plug and play. Do you have any idea how many 500-600-700hp cars are running around with PFCs and factory harness? Too many to count.

Holy Shit. Did I just witness AaronCake get called out and pwn'd all in the same sitting?

oooohhhhh so owned....so yea back to what i was saying power fc all the way

lol yea haltech is pricy as hell but good

The GT40R is a bit small for a peripheral port. If you are PP'ing, then you're going to be wanting 600+ HP so you need something a bit larger. Staying in the GT series, the 42 with a big hotside, the 45 with an equally big hotside, and then larger... You need to run a LARGE hotside to avoid backpressure. This likely means that you're out of T4 territory.

2 years ago a friend and I built a PP 12A for his 1st gen. The engine is built, as is most of the intake manifold. It's going to be turbocharged but currently I don't know the specs of the turbo he is going to choose. Knowing him, it will be a big T4, journal bearing.

Are you shopping on eBay? If so, then post the link to the auction. Even the journal bearing GT40 is about $1000 retail.

There's no issue with conserving fuel during city driving if the car is tuned properly.

There will be NOTHING cheap about installing a GT40/GT40R on a 2nd gen (or any car really).

Probably a waste of time. Only the fittings hose and pump (filter?) will be usable.

-6 is fine to about 600HP. Any more and you'll need to step up.

Those suck. :) A search will turn up the fitment problems that people are having.

As I said, it's opinion and based of few facts. I've seen the thing in use but not tuned or installed one myself. I don't consider anything that plugs into a factory harness to be a "full standalone". Of course there's no reason you couldn't make a new PFC harness, but that's really not the purpose of a PNP unit. :)

[quote]Are you kidding me? The advantage of a standalone is having full tuneability, you really think half of the advantage is a harness, boy are you missing the idea. Do you have any idea how many bad Microtech and Haltec installs I see every year? DOZENS

I don't know if you're familiar with the condition of the wiring harnesses in most FCs (at least around here anyway...your area may be different) but they are abysmal at best. So many problems are solved just by replacing the harness.

I've seen a tonne of horrid Microtech/Haltech installs. like anything, the result will depend on the skills of the installer.

hmmm... interesting...

I've heard of nothing but problems with those rails. Some products are problematic, regardless of installer. If stuff doesn't fit right and hits other components then it's an issue with manufacture.

It could also be said that aftermarket fuel rails are totally unnecessary since the stock rails will accept metric to AN adapters just fine (in the case of S4).

Edit...OK, instead of saying "they suck" I should have said "some have found them problematic to install and the benefits are up for debate".

I was looking at the GT40 on cheapturbo.com and yes I know somepeople say bad stuff about that place but I have heard a TON of good about that at well a T4 GT40 for 869 (free shipping idk how but no shipping came up when i went to check out. I already have a fuelrail and russel threaded fittings so I think the jegs kit might work fine. I will link the kit and the turbo i found below

http://www.jegs.com/p/Aeromotive/756988/10002/-1/11913
http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/gat4b.html

I will probably get bitched at for this but the problem with the KG rail is that, at least when you get it as part of the Rx-7 Store kit (which I unfortunately bought), it comes by itself with no mounting hardware and NO INSTRUCTIONS. and if you complain to rx7store about no instructions, they imply that you are an idiot and if you know what you were doing you would be able to somehow immediately know that:

1. you need to stack two washers (I think) to make it fit because there are no included spacers.
2. you need M8 x 1.25 allen head bolts (hex head will hit the rail and not tighten properly) that I believe are 20mm long. The stock secondary rail bolts won't work.
3. Bosch 1680 injectors do not work out of the box with this rail. They create a huge vacuum leak unless you remove the Bosch lower pintle cap, o-ring, and spacer and install an s5 pintle cap over it (s4 will not work).

and once again, nobody at rx7store will tell you this. so people like myself end up making multiple, frustrating trips to the hardware store. and if you call them and ask them questions they give you a bunch of shit and tell you that the kit is "only for professionals" to install. I've never bought the KG rail directly so I'm not sure if it is less troublesome if you go that route.

that sounds like a pain int the ass and go figure you ask a simple install question and you get flamed. I guess I will be a guinea pig for the jegs kits hell if it works that would rock and anyways even if I don't use the WHOLE kit the guys I work with in the shop could prob use some on their 240's