What to look for buying a turbo II - Help!
 

I will be purchasing a 87 - 90 Turbo II in the next few days, probably with less than 85k miles and a 5-spd. I know that you guys are experts when it comes to the inherent weaknesses of this car, the rotary, and what I should look for or have tested (compression?) prior to buying. Also, I welcome thoughts on stock vs. modified and 87-88 vs. 89-91 turbos. Thanks for you immediate response!

Lance

1. Have compression tested by someone that can REALLY test it.
2. 85K, ask things like new clutch? Does is shift smooth? Any clunk noises in the driveline?
3. If your having someone check out the compression, pull off the top mount intercooler (4-6 some odd bolts a 3-4 hoses) and look inside for oil residue. A old turbo that hasn't been replaced might have its oil seals wearing out. So if there is a little oil; thats ok. Lots of oil, you may want to wonder.
4. Ask if the owner let it cool down after driving (I let my 91 TII cool for 2 minutes EVERY time)
5. Check all eletrical items; and by the life of you, don't take it to be serviced until you ask us :D

Inherent weaknesses:
-Clock/Idiot light malfunction (resolder job NOT hard, not worth buying new parts)
-Fluid dependant, if you like skipping oil changes, your gonna get screwed. Also eats oil via injection into the motor, about 1 quart every few thousand miles (I forget exactly how much, just stay on top of your oil level)
-Switches, its the wiper, or the doors; just remember the car isnt within 8 years of being new. Take it into consideration, most things can be repaired rather than replaced.
-High insurance; unless your a 40 year old woman.
-The back tires seem to oddly dissappear faster than the fronts...:( still haven't figured that out :D

If I were you, I would try and stick with a stock car; you know then it wasn't pushed around too hard. Do a carfax and find out the history of the vehicle (accidents, yada yada odometer reports yada yada; people here may help you out with them!)

87-88 TII-around 180 HP
89-91 TII-around 200 HP (but weighs 300 pounds more)

The 89-91's have a higher compression and a few minor engine differences (read MINOR). The 87-88's have the benefit of a mechanical oil metering pump (good thing, you don't want to lose engine lubrication and blow a 2K motor due to a 90$ part.)

Depending on how you want to go, just read up what you see on the forum and try to make an educated pick. Buy a car from an old person (less likely to be ragged--note I said "likely"). Either way your going to get a NIIIIIICE car with a TII, I just picked mine up about 3 weeks ago.

Got work to do, hope you have luck!

Joe

91 TII
83 GSL

I disagree on the insurance being high. I'm paying $400/yr for this car with homeowners, multi-car, and above 25yrs old discounts.

I have partial-full coverage. If someone steals it or hits me with no insurance, I'm covered for $7500. If I crash it - I'm out $7500 and if I hit someone I pay a $1500 deducatable.

Swaney,

Josepi pretty much covered it. The cheapest overall rx-7 would be the $8500 model with proper mods and emaculent condition. The cheapest to get into/longevity cobmo would be a fair-good shape one with new engine. The cheapest to buy upfront would be one with a blown engine, good engine & bad interior, etc...

Hope that helps :)

1992 FC3S Turbo II rx-7
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