Guess it wasn't worth it to bypass the TW. I'll be pulling the TB and dynamic chamber off and messing with that damn 90* line...

As a temprary fix you could also just place a large vacuum cap on top of the upside down screw which rests against the thermowax piston and this will force the primary throttle plate closed.

Well I started it up (haven't reconnected the coolant line to the TB TW yet), but if I lift on the arm the the TW should push up, it only raises the RPM slightly, and will still surge, between 1450-1550 rpm.
Is there something I'm missing? I can't seem to find the fast Idle adjustment screw, is in on the firewall side of the TB, closest to the Dynamic chamber?

Edit:
If that is the fast/high Idle screw, but turning it back it lowered my idle rpm (fully warmed). I can push the throttle shaft further shut, to the "top" screw/ nut stop and it idles down nice. No surge. As soon as I touch the Throttle up at all it won't sit back to the "top" stop and Stays at a touch higher idle.

I also loosened the Throttle cable and that allowed it to idle down a touch...:blush:

try screwing in the phillips screw on the thermowax, similar to what satch mentioned but more permanent. it has a spring under the head and faces straight up, screw it down to compress the spring fully and see if that helps. if not then your throttle cable may be too tight.

Not sure about this Phillips screw? I have blade screws on all over the TB, but zero phillips. There is a blade set screw on the top of the TW that is wrapped in an expanding spring, same one?

Karack (RE) is talking about the Fast Idle Cam screw which is located on the rear of the throttle body. It's the upside down screw that rests upon the Thermowax piston. In a normal situation as the coolant running to the Thermowax warms it causes the piston to extend downward upon the upside down screw which presses the throttle linkage on the back down which closes the primary plate which lowers the idle.

Ok what I thought was the fast Idle set screw, I have no name for. When I adjust the Fast Idle set screw ontop of the TW, It doesn't effect much, til a point where it will raise my idle.

The other screw, also on the back side of the TB, but closer to the Dynamic chamber. I can adjust it out, but its like the springs on the shaft don't have enough strength to pull it back to the stop screw?

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/3...acementthe.png

The screw on the right of the pic is what I have adjusted out the most. The stop screw is not depicted on this pic, but is visable from the top of the TB.

Actually, I made a boo boo by saying what Karack was referring to. The screw on top of the "Dynamic Chamber is the Idle Adjust Screw and is only adjusted after the Initial set Coupler is jumpered. The small screw at the front of the throttle body, but towards the top of the body helps to set the secondary plates. This bolt is normally tightened down fully from the factory and it need not be tampered with unless someone has messed with it. It normally has a white coating on top of it so as not to mess with it.

I have no screw on the top of the dynamic chamber. The second screw Im refering is the on in the pic, just left of the "25*C".

Im Working on my TII. Sorry if that screws up some shit of your explanations? Also just in the process of putting my Retk7 1.7 ecm in. should I hold off til this issue is sorted? The whole reason of all of this was to put 720CC secondaries and cleaned primaries in with the Rtek7. As well as a Boost gauge.

After the last adjustment, I took it for a rip and I has no high rpm jogging like it did before, but also does not boost as high as it did before. Super smooth though throughout the rpm band.

screw we're referring to is the one on the left side of that diagram.

remember it is a S4 TII, BAC has the idle set screw as well as the idle hard stop screw which is under the intercooler near the fast idle cam/thermowax adjustment.

without coolant running through the thermowax it won't move much if at all, screwing in the fast idle cam screw will bypass the thermowax to let the throttle idle onto the hard idle set screw. if it isn't touching the hard idle set screw afterwards then be sure the throttle cable has slack in it.

The second screw you refer to can adjust the Fast Idle Cam but there are instances where that is not enough of an adjustment because of the cam not sticking downward enough so to make up for the difference then the other screw (left side of your diagram supplied) is then adjusted tighter so it closes the gap between the cam and the tip of the screw thus helping to close the primary plate more. This screw is much easier to access. Yeah, I wasn't sure whether this was the NA you have or the turbo you are currently dealing with.

is the idle hard stop screw the one also in the pic, or is it just the stop screw with a nut on it? I have the intercooler off and pvc piping inplace for the time being.

And Thank you guys very much for the help!

Neither of the screws in the pic is the stop screw.

ok thats what I was thinking. It is damn near directly below the tb's top coolant line then? I'm not touching it, just want to know the proper names to stops/ adjustment screws.

it faces up and towards the passenger side of the car near the fast idle screw, generally has a inset small flat head screwdriver tip with 8mm locknut.

Bingo.

Anything special to do before firing the car up for the first time with the new ecm plugged in? Fuse is pulled right now aswell. First time messing with this on the rx.

Setting idle with the initial set coupled?

The ISC is jumpered so when you adjust the idle screw at the BAC the BAC won't interfere with the idle adjustment. If it is not jumpered then the BAC will attempt to offeset the idling adjustment. The coupler is located near the leading coil and has two wires (a Black wire and an Orange wire) within a Green connector.

Wicked! You Guys Are awsome, my RX7 Now sits and purrs! Idle's perfect.

After this last test drive, the old secondaries must have been absolutely screwed, cause it now revs perfectly smooth right through to redline. SO Glad its running like brand new, now I can play with the PSI's a little bit.