Water pump installation today, gasket question , best? 1990 FC3C n/a
 

Water pump went out, and I am replacing today, and was curious about the gasket. I've heard, depending on application, heat, moisture, pressure, etc. factory gasket is fine. Some say no, yes, add blue rtv, rtv, without gasket, silicone, You get my drift. In all my other vehicles, I have used blue RTV by itself, no gasket. Seeing that the rotary is new issue for me, does the fact that the engine temp runs higher than avg. vehicles have any bearing on the seal? I know when it all comes down to it, I'll do what I want---yeah yeah yeah, make me a believer with your personal experience.

THANKS - THE DOG

And wow, with shroud and fan out of way, I can almost make love in the engine bay. Also, vehicle is 15 years young, since OMP lines are so easily accesable, should I change them out? Look fine, but must be brittle. Got all 4 belts to replace also.

ok , the waterpump, make sure when u remove it u dont tweek the housing and unseal the gasket from the housing to the engine or else u wull need to remove it, sand the surfaces with a high git paper, as far as the water pump, make the gasket is off in both places good possibly sanbd with a high grit, use RVT and a gasket, let it sit ATLEAST 5 hrs, then your all good..

What Felix the Skittle-killer said!

Go to NAPA and get Permatex Right Stuff RTF and you'll be able to drive it 5 minutes after application without having to wait 5 hours.

I have NEVER had a failure with rightstuff and currently have it on my oil pan and waterpump on my 91 Vert.

http://www.permatex.com/right_stuff/right_stuff1.asp

Rotaries run at the same temps as piston engines.

Permatex, with or without a gasket? I'm assuming both, but just checking. And NZ, I have read a million posts, as Im sure you have, and on many occasions I have read that they run hotter. If I am incorrect, so noted. Thanks for input so far.

PEACE THE DOG

You're getting confused with exhaust temps, which are hotter. Coolant temps are no different to most piston engines.

Personally I'd just use a gasket. It worked fine for the first 15 years...

not to be a ass or nothnig, i must dissagree, i have had problems with just gaskets in the past espcally on the water pump area, i would use permatex ultra black RVT and the gasket just use a moderate layer on both side of the gasket and install and allow to dry atleast 2-4 hrs before using or puting in coolent, and nz is rite the coolent temps are the same itz the exhasut temps that are crazy hot

The gasket with a THIN film of RTV on both mating surfaces. That's to seal any corrosion pits that might be there from years of *use*.

Most MODERN cars run water temps in the 210 range on purpose. Emission purposes. At least that's what I've seen with OBDII scanners on three Ford vehicles. I know, only three....

Mine is working fine with the stock gasket. Though I did use some Gasgacinch gasket and belt dressing I got from Mazdatrix along time ago. Also my coolant temps during normal driving are normally around 185 to 195 degrees on my autometer gauge. This is cooler than some cars run.The Fords that Hailers mentioned and GM runs thier V8s around 210 degrees I believe.Not sure about thier other engines but probably about the same.

This is not a piston vs. rotary thing, it's an age thing. Most cars of the same age as FC's run exactly the same temps, including GM V8's.

What year did they go to hotter temps? I'm guessing maybe around '82-85, 'cause the Camaro my wife had ran around 210 most of the time.It had an 88 Tuned Port motor and the stock 195 degree themostat but the factory temp sensor didn't kick the elect fan on till 220-230 degrees.Tuned Port Inj. was first offered in '86 I believe. But to reinforce that its not a piston vs rotary thing alot of poeple with newer Camaros TPI,LT1,LS1s run colder thermostats and sensors to kick their fans on sooner which put them in the same temp range as the FC and I'm guessing the older V8's. Not trying start an argument this is just the experience I've had.

i used gasket and thin layer on both sides, of that ultra copper RTV, its orange, been working well for me.

I used the gasket and then waterpump and thermostat sealer from autozone. I put a thin layer on both sides of the gasket and sandwhiched it in there, let it sit overnight and its been leak free ever since. Just be careful not to go too crazy with the silicone or you will end up having a chunk of squeezed off stuff on the inside come loose and get stuck in the thermostat...... dont ask me how i know this ;)