Water H2O trick...
 

ICEMAN said to use a single vac nipple/line and KEVIN says to get a tee fitting to connect two vacs (on from each rotor).

i know there are many methods, which is better/BEST?

QUOTE FROM ICEMARK
"Okay on a 89-92 non turbo to hit both, rotors, but with only one water feed, you need to connect your hose to the bottom vac connection on the fire wall side, between the throttle body and the dynamic chamber.

There are three vac connections there. You must use the bottom one. The one that has a dog leg coming off of the dynamic chamber.

This (BTW) is the same small lead that feeds from the bottom of the purge valve and goes to throttle body to just behind the primary throttle body plate.

Now this is for a water feed only... do not run chemicals through that line, as the line feeds through the dynamic/upper intake, and then the black plastic/bakelite spacer to the throttle body, just behind the primary plates.

Now your other option (if the above is beyond your mechanical ability to get too) is to use one of the large tubes coming off of the bottom of the snorkle, and hook a small vac line size tube to an adapter and use one of those. But the vac won't be quite as strong there. I generally perfer this though, as it will hit all the intake tracts as well, instead of just the primaires."

THIS IS FROM KEVIN.
"To perform this, I use a gallon jug of water and a long vacuum hose, say 3 feet. Though this is different for nearly every year and model, the underlying goal is to find 1 or 2 vacuum nipples on the intake manifolds after throttle body, preferably on the lower intake manifold so that the water can run straight down into the block. You want to feed both front and rear rotors evenly…generally you have 4 intake runners, 2 for the front, 2 for the back. Some engines have one nipple that can feed both (s4 turbos, for example, have one above the BAC valve that is evenly split between F and R primary runners). Some engines (fd’s and s5 na’s for example) have 2 separate nipples that can be teed together externally (vacuum hose and tee) to evenly feed both rotors.

With the engine running, remove the vacuum cap or lines that used to cover the nipple you’re using. You might have to apply throttle, so the engine doesn’t die due to a vacuum leak. Insert your hose(s) onto the nipples, and bend the hose somewhere in the middle by hand so that it seals off the air intake. Now, dip the end of the hose into the water at the bottom of the jug. Either grab the throttle linkage and rev the engine up, or have an assistant hold the throttle for you, above 3500 or so. Release your crimp on the hose, letting the engine vacuum suck water in. The engine will begin to shake and misfire, apply throttle as necessary to hold 3-4krpm and keep the engine from dying.

Expect a lot of steam from the exhaust. This is normal. I let the engine drink the whole gallon at once. When it’s done, it’ll begin to clear up slowly, and you can gradually let off the throttle and replace the original vacuum hoses/caps."


THANKS A MILLION.

please... id be satisfied with a picture of the vac/nipple icemark recommended. i want to do this soo bad, help a rotary lover out.

The only difference is placement.

On Kevins, the water is flowing in the LIM, while on my location it is flowing in to the throttle body.

But go look where the throttle body is. There are three nipples with Vac lines on the back (firewall side) of the intake manifold where it meets the throttle body. Should be real easy to see.

QUOTE FROM ICEMARK
"Now your other option (if the above is beyond your mechanical ability to get too) is to use one of the large tubes coming off of the bottom of the snorkle, and hook a small vac line size tube to an adapter and use one of those. But the vac won't be quite as strong there. I generally perfer this though, as it will hit all the intake tracts as well, instead of just the primaires."

wheres is this vac located, or called?

im looking behind between where the firewall and the DC is at and cant find any vacs that look big enought to suck the water. i have pictures but dont know how to post them either. someone help PLEASE...

here are the pics

thanks for the post.
i can take better pictures with better quality of someone can point me in the directioin. thanks

Bump.

What's the point of doing this?

^^yup thats where you want to put the water^^j/k....but what the hell?

anyways...the nipples on the throttle body should be easy to see...has you TB been hacked in some crazy mod by the previous owner?

Would I do this the same if I had all my emissions removed?

Remove carbon build up on the rotors.

Instinct suggests that using distilled H2O would be preferred over tap H20. Do not recall comments to that effects. Thoughts anyone?

car should be all stock... it came factory capped off i think. im sure ICEMARK would know what it is. i have everything still on the engine, can this be the reason why it is hard for me to locate the vacs/nipples? would it be easier to locate if i took off the DC, ac, ps?

you get what you put in...

its not that hard to locate, there is a row of vacuum lines at the back of the intake where the UIM meets the throttle body. you want someone to remove their engine so they can take a better picture? there isn't much room to get a picture, it is just something you need to find by description.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ click teck and go to s5 none turbo emission removal.

is there a picture in this link that shows the vac/nipple needed to perfom the water trick? if yes can you post the picture and maybe highlight the nipple/vac/area on where it is located? THANKS

So..... is it REALLY hard to hydro-lock a rotary, or what? I mean, in my experiance, letting your engine drink a whole gallon of water usually is a bad idea. In a piston engine anyways.

which vac please... im thinking its the baby blue or yellow one goin to the IM. or maybe the marron ish one? thanks

its me the girl again, hehehe, still need help, im hot, sexy and love rx7s so answer now!

please man, its my day off. which is it, the yellow, baby blue, or marron colored vac that is used to perfrom the water trick?

if im not mistaken i belive its the red one he says on the dynamic chamber by the throttle body the lower one towards the firewall so i would assume he means the red one and i belive it should hit all the internals

It's this RED one... God i love my Photoshop.

TR

Edit: you're welcome ^_^

thats the one i thought thank you takahashi

yeah thanks man and sorry for the delay, i was banned for a week from the forum.

Question: why were you banned for a week? Just out of curiosity?. I was about to remove my UIM & TB (boost leak), I coud have taken pics, unfortunately, i have a turbo,so they wouldnt help much... I also have a N/A completely disassembled ast my moms, but too far to drive just for a pic.....

i figured it out.

reason i was banned was because i wasnt allowed to talk to rx7girl. i guess only the people with those privilages are the people running this web site. they said they were editing the thread for unnecessary post and off topic chat but for some odd reason it seems they were only editing that certain thread. so they delete all my post even though i had a specific question for her about her mod on that specific topic. and yeah i might get banned for another week for saying this but WTF... GET OFF HER NUTTS

I did the water trick in lab the other day at school( i go to tech school) I took a water bottle, and pulled a vaccum line right above the LIM on the UIM facing the strut. Let someone sit in the car and rev to about 3k, then let the line drink up all the water, Refill and repeat =D works well, you can see white smoke from the exhaust instantly (steam) then after a few min of idling, the smoke turned grey (carbon)...dont be alarmed if your car keeps smokeing for a while...after about a day of boosting around town, mine stoped. And be sure to let your car get hot before hand.

yeah darksider somethings go like that but hey

Can Someone perform step by steps with taking pictures? Dude, if you mess it up with any line in engine with it, it will have a major damage to the engine... dude...

Probably going to do this soon. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow after I change my oil. We'll see. I'll post results if I do.


Chris

so is this some sort of steam cleaning procedure? what would prompt you to do this?

Justin

Think of it like steam cleaning the internals

its not a bad idea to do it every now and then to keep carbon from building up too much.

I like seafoam

so do u leave 1 end of the hose connected to the UIM and the other inside the water bottle 2 drink up all the water?

I talked to one of my intructors who is a rotorhead and i guess you can do the same thing with atf??...

was that replying to my question?

the vac is hella easy to find, i cant believe i couldnt find it from ICEMARKS description. inbetween the intake man/throttle body and the firewall, there are 3 vac lines that line up with eachother vertically. unplug the one from the bottom that has a vac nipple/pipe attachment comming out from the intake man/throttle body and attach a longer vac line to stick in the water bottle.

i think i did it wrong though becasue i was revving 5ks all the way through.

nope i din't think so. but to answer you. yes you hook up the vacuum hoseand lstick the other end in your bottle and let it drink.

Ryosuke

Helps remove carbon deposits from the rotors and seal grooves. In my opinion it's a waste of time and something to do only if you are very bored or excessive carbon buildup is actually causing problems (in which case you likely have another problem somewhere else like an overly rich fuel mixture).

Well as you know I am running overly rich. I did the seafoam yesterday. I followed icemarks instructions and used the seafoam first. It smoked a whole whole lot. I then used about a half gallon of distilled water which it didn't smoke hardly any at all. I figured the seafoam had cleaned most of it out if that were the case. I used a second can of seafoam and it smoked like hell again. Then ran a slight amount of water thru it. All this after an oil change. I then took all my plugs out and cleaned them, I found out that I was running 9's all the way around instead of 2 7's and 2 9's. So I swapped the L out with 7's. I took the car out and drove it around for a little while. The first time I gave it a little bit of boost(3psi) around 3k it hesitated like a hell so I let off and I got back on it and it let out a huge cloud of smoke as I was driving down the road. It seemed like it just had to push a little more to get past 3 but then it cleared up and drove like normal. I guess it was just excess burning off. The car seems to run much smoother now. After I did the seafoam and took the plugs out they were still black so I cleaned them off with a wire brush. Either way I'm probably gonna do a treatment with each oil change just to be on the safe side until I can get a FPR. Thanks for the help Aaron


Chris

Aaron??? what?! huh?! naw just kidding, he is a genius... by the way Aaron, did you get that grounding thread together yet?

seafoam is damn expensive to suck through your engine so fast... why not add some "cuts grease on contact" dish soap to the water... or better yet, use straight up simple green or formula 88

and then, if you're still bored, start making concoctions of what you think makes the most smoke when burned and see who can make the largest, darkest, meanest smoke cloud and post pics lol

Because seafoam is the shit

water is cheaper :D

Dude, Seafoam is not that expensive.

It's almost like a quartz of your engine oil. 5 bucks, man.

Well, just think that if you can skip one of three meals in a day, you can afford it.

Btw, I didn't realize that Spark Plug is 34 dollars with Denzo brand. Autozone and Pepboys don't have other brand... Oh Well...

-Ryousuke

Seafoam is expensive??? Now I know just how cheap FC owners are.