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-   -   Vacuum Hose Diagram for 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II? (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/vacuum-hose-diagram-1987-mazda-rx-7-turbo-ii-794890/)

skelaw 10-19-08 07:20 PM

Vacuum Hose Diagram for 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II?
 
Alright, I coudln't find it on the 2nd gen specific but if anyone could point me in the direction of one, I would like a diagram of the vacuum hoses in a 1987 Turbo II. does anybody have one of those in a file or somewhere?

I have the silicone hoses, I just lost my copy of the diagram and I don't remember where I put it.

I am also planning on removing the vacuum spider completely and capping off about 4 new places.

Any help RX7Club?

Aleks

Osirus9 10-19-08 07:32 PM

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Attachment 706285

indigogt 10-19-08 11:34 PM

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Here it is dude.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1224477190

HAILERS 10-20-08 05:40 AM

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The attached decal used to be attached to the hood of every Turbo car made. It's very percise in where the hoses go.

Jonathan12uiz 12-11-08 05:39 AM


Originally Posted by Osirus9 (Post 8651040)

question for you. i have all the emission blocked off with plates. what is that item located at the end of the oil injection air bleed in your picture.

diedxjustxyesterday 02-02-09 06:23 AM

Its the collector for the oil injectors isn't it?

HAILERS 02-02-09 11:01 AM

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diedxjustxyesterday 02-03-09 06:54 PM

Hate to thread jack but where does the line for the switching actuator at the bottom of the Turbo go? because i have removed my rats nest and that really looks like its hooked to one of the vacuum solenoids and a check valve of which i have removed both.. got a pic of said check valve and where it goes... im reading 20 lbs of vaccum at idle, i needs help!

HAILERS 02-03-09 07:44 PM

It goes just like the jpg I attached above.

diedxjustxyesterday 02-05-09 03:28 AM

that looks like a vaccum solenoid that its attached too which is on the rats nest which is nonexistant on my vehicle.

HAILERS 02-05-09 07:12 AM

If you look at post #5 above, it's the same as the decal off the hood of a 87turboII that I attached in post #7. The vacuum comes off the top nipple of the three on the front of the throttle body..........then goes to a check valve.............leaves the check valve and goes to a solenoid..........then on to the metal line on the switching actuator.

I believe NZCONVERTIBLE did that dwg in post #5, If you look you see a red ARROW leaving the check valve near the switching solenoid. And if you look up at the throttle body in that jpg you see a red Arrow going into the top nipple of the throttle body. That jpg in post #5 apes the decal found on the original turboII cars.

The switching actuator fails to the open positon if no vacuum is on it. The solenoid is actuated by the ECU. The solenoid has a constant batt voltage on one of its two wires anytime the key is on, and the ECU puts a gnd on the other wire when the rpms get to something like 2800 rpm.

slow50 10-10-10 08:43 PM

would all of these cause an erratic idle? The reason I'm asking is my 87 turbo 2 is surging between 1400 and 1600 rpm's after I pulled the upper intake to fix a blown coolant hose. I found 2 vacuum hoses behind the intake that seem like they don't connect to anything and these are the only diagrams I've found. Not trying to hijack the thread really, just seemed like a good place to post

GordiniRX7 10-13-10 08:20 PM

There wasnt much to hi-jack, lol 1 year and 8 months since last post.
But since idk the answer to your question, BUMP.

TIIFC3S 10-14-10 11:38 AM

Vac leaks relating to the rats nest can cause that problem. My car had a surging idle when I bought it and I found out later that there were numerous vac leaks related to the rats nest. I also found out when taking it apart the previous owner removed the twin-scroll system as well.

I followed the diagram in the #2 post above exactly when I put it back together and adding the twin scroll actuator back onto the car. After making sure there were no vac leaks and adjusting the TPS, my car idles at 750 solid once it's warmed up. And fyi, S4's don't have a secondary air bleed. So no need to search for it.

Here was my post:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/double-rats-nest-removal-twin-scroll-addition-913213/

GordiniRX7 10-15-10 10:10 AM

How much vacuum line do I need to do the emissions and vacuum rack removal on the s4 TII? It doesnt look like much.

TIIFC3S 10-17-10 12:55 PM

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I bought my vacuum line from a local chain parts store so the line is really cheap. I can't remember the size I bought, but bring a piece of what you already have to match it up. I think it was 70 cents a foot, so I'd get like 10 feet in case you make a mistake or you want to run your lines in a particular way. The expensive part is the new fuel hose. It needs to be special hose that's coated for fuel and had cords running through it. That was $8 a foot, and I bought 8 feet which was a little too much. I think it could be done with 6, but I'd buy 7 feet just to be safe in case something goes wrong. It's expensive for hose, but it's worth it when you see it all completed. This is the best pic I could find of the fuel line set up. The fuel pulsation dampner is removed so that's where the purple plug is. I was just mocking it up at the time of the pic, so there are no injectors and the vac lines aren't all hooked up.

GordiniRX7 10-17-10 05:15 PM

That is very helpfull, thank You. Are all of the vacuum hoses needed one size? or do I have to match certian sizes? what size should I get for the fuel hose?

TIIFC3S 10-18-10 11:51 AM

All the vac hoses that you'll be dealing with should be the same size. I honestly can't tell you what size the hoses are because I just brought existing ones in and said 'I need this.' But for the fuel line, once you have the rats nest out, use the piece of fuel line that connects the primary fuel rail to the secondary fuel rail. It's maybe 5 inches long and the store can match the hose to that. For the vac lines, the size you need is the same that goes to your boost sensor, twin scroll actuator, vac solenoids under the oil filler neck(which all but the green one you'll remove), etc. They're all the same. And I forgot to mention earlier, the reason why I bought so much vac line is I redid all the vac lines. For my BOV, boost sensor, and boost gauge in addition to the rats nest and emissions removal.

AUGieDogie 10-19-10 03:19 AM

So where does the FPR vac line go?
In the "rats nest removal" picture it just kind of disappears.
on Hailers under hood decal (which I have never seen on any of the 5 cars I've owned) it seemes to go from the Air Supply valve, to the press. reg. solenoid and then down to the FPR. Is that right?

TIIFC3S 10-21-10 11:47 AM

I suppose it does disappear in both the diagram and in my pic. In both the pic and diagram, you'll see part of the LIM that angles back toward the firewall under the subzero start block off plate. I think it's originally an emissions related vac point. With all emissions related valves removed, all that's needed it a vac hose from the FPR to that vac point. It's on the diagram, but is much easier to see when you have everything taken apart. In my pic, the FPR vac line connects to the LIM right behind one of my secondard injector clips.

GordiniRX7 10-24-10 08:54 PM

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Okay, can anyone tell me where these things go?
I know that the purple is from the brake booster, but I forgot where it goes. And I know that the red is a coolant hose but I'm not sure where it goes, I understand that in Rotary Resurection's(Kevin's) article on emissions removal, this is plugged up and sealed, but where does it go?

Attachment 706305

Also, why does that article not disscuss or mention the swtching actuator on the factory turbo, or the solenoid needed to run it? Is his article intended more for aftermarket turbos?

TIIFC3S 10-27-10 02:35 PM

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Everything I did refers to a stock turbo. The thread link in post #14 talks about the twin scroll system, switching actuator, and the solenoids needed to run the system. It also covers what all the solenoids do and which can go.

The red coolant hose attaches to a pipe on the underside of the throttle body(firewall side) which points towards the passanger side of the car. I don't really remember where the brake booster line attaches to. It's been a few months since I did all this so I don't remember what went where. But I can say in the pic I attached, if you zoom in on just underneath the II on the intercooler you'll see a hose. That's the hose that attaches to the hardline on the firewall. I tried to trace it to see where it goes, but since everything is on my engine right now I can't see where it attaches. But it does go under the UIM/throttle body.

I looked for better pics to help, but I don't have any. And I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to attach a zoomed in pic that was within size limits. I'll have the engine taken apart again in about a month, so if you haven't done the work by then, PM me and I'll take a pic of the underside of the UIM and I'll send it to you.

GordiniRX7 10-27-10 03:00 PM

Someone already told me where the coolant hose goes. I plan on removing the thermowax and everything, so I can just plug that hole. But theres another hose, I think it attaches to the ?back of the waterpump? I see it in the picture you just posted. It looks like its comeing out of the BAC. Where does that go?

arghx 10-27-10 03:07 PM

if you are deleting the thermowax/fast idle system then you can cap/plug the hose on the back of the water pump housing and remove the hoses from the BAC. The BAC doesn't really need coolant running through the side of it, that's mostly to keep it from freezing up in very cold climates.

GordiniRX7 10-27-10 03:22 PM

Well Im removing the BAC. Do I plug where that hose comes from too?


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