used rx7
 

I currently drive a 1990 240sx and am thinking of selling it to buy a 1989-92 RX7 because my 240 is auto and i want a stick. Anyways i have been looking up information about rotory and the rx7 and i know about hp, modding, and drivablitiy of the FC but i an having a hard time finding stuff about reliability. What probablems have you guys had and what are common things you have to fix and replace? Also how much does it cost to do that? I have rebuilt a few piston cars but not rotory can i do that easily and will it help improve the reliability? Thanks rx7 drivers.

7's can be high maintenance...but well worth it!

there is a thread on here about common problems....just use the search bar at the top

Whatever you buy have a compression test done.

Actually that is incorrect... 10-15 year old cars can be high maintenance, but the RX-7 by its motor alone is generally lower maintaince than most piston engined cars.

No timing belt,
no valves to adjust,
computerized timing that is good for 30k-60k miles without adjustment.
regular gas on a NA.

The only thing high maintence is regular oil changes and plugs, etc (and show me a sports car that doesn't have that) and a few 10 year, 100K mile part replacements (like the PD and cleaning the fuel injectors).

I disagree with that. You can get regular gas on a N/A Piston engine, too. Infact, most people do.

I'm not sure what you're referring to about Computerized adjustments after a certain mileage. Piston engines don't need that either, and since he has one, I think he knows that, too.

Timing belt, I agree on, but it only costs $5.00 and you change it every 60K miles, so its not really maintenance.

The valves don't need to be adjusted in a Piston engine either, at least until you rebuild and thats if you want to.

It seems to me that people think that just because a Piston engine had more components, that it is a higher maintenance engine. In the words of my uncle, owner o 4 RX-7's, "If you want one of those cars, you have to take real good care of them at all times. Check the oil often, and they have a tendency to overheat."

A word to the wise: (the poster) Don't come onto a rotary messageboard and seek advice on engine reliability, your answer is in MOST cases, (NOT ALL) going to be biased/subjective instead of objective.

Its like me going onto a 3000GT forum and asking, should I buy a 3000GT or RX-7? What do you think the people there are going to tell you.

Just by reading this page, you'll find problems with the rotary, just be conscious of the fact that they are 13 years old, and some people take care of them better than others. Run a compression test before you buy, unless you want to have a PJ car for a daily driver.

Based on what I've read, and this is an unbiased opinion, (don't own a RX-7 YET) the 2nd gen has problems with electrical components. They also run hot from what I've been told and have seen. (3 threads with coolant probs on this page yesterday) and lastly, that they burn oil, which can be attributed to a problem with the seals.

Engine timing is by a crank angle sensor to ECU. That would be computerized.

Yet there are still GM's made with a Distributor cap...

Either way timing should be checked every 30K-60K miles. But it’s not like a car with a distributor cap that needs the cap and rotor replaced at least every 30K miles.

I don't no what cars you are working on, but every overhead cam engine made; needs a valve adjustment at either 30 miles or 60K miles.

And last I checked on a timing belt for a Honda it was over $300 installed, and on my Lexus over $500.

I would suggest a couple of factory shop manuals be read, for you PJ of various makes, so you can familiarize yourself with the maintenance requirements of engines over the last 20 years.

Icemark is right on. A timing belt change is REQUIRED maintenance at 60K and it's a lot more than $5. Failure to do that is asking for a blown motor. Ask me how I know.

Rotaries run hotter by nature than piston engines. This is a given fact and has been taken into account by the engineers who made the RX. A regular coolant flush every other season, along with standard parts replacements like thermostat and water pump will keep the car running fine. Mine has all stock cooling and rarely gets close to the 1/2 point unless I'm really romping on it.

Rotaries are MADE to burn oil. It is NOT a problem with any seals in the car unless you're worried about blow by....again caused by improper care and not doing regular maintenance.

My 7 has over 200K on the original motor, with only exhaust and intake upgrades done since I bought it 75,000 miles ago. As with any performance vehicle, you need to be absolutely ANAL about maintenance. Do that, and pick a solid car with a strong motor to begin with, and it'll last you a long, long time.

JB

My 240sx has a timing chain, no belt, and it has self adjusting valves so no problem there and uses regualer gas. All i have to do for mantince is fluids, spark plugs, and Distributor cap. I just wanted to know what kind of maintance i would have to do. What i have read on this tread and others is that if you keep and eye on the oil, change spark plugs, clean ingectors, flush coolent and make sure i have a good car to start with. Does that sound like everything you guys do. Also is it true that you shouldn't use sinthetic oil? Thanks.

Synthetic oil is fine, but no real need for it; you should be replacing the oil every 3k miles at least. With the rotary engine, make sure you replace the oil regularly, the oil level are constant (full) at all times and NEVER EVER overheat the engine.

If its a turbo, detonation is your worst enemy!

I disagree with the use of synthetics.

I use Castrol GTX 20-50 NON-synthetic. Since our cars burn oil by design, synthetics don't burn off as well as non-synthetics. Advice from gurus on here as well as Atkins Rotary confirm the use of synthetic oil is BAD.
What that means for you as an owner is increased carbon and sludge deposits from the stuff that didn't burn.

Basically, this is my own maintenance schedule:

Oil & filter: As above at 2,500 miles

Air filter: Cleaned @ 15K.

Fuel filter: 15K miles

Plugs: 10K miles. NGK's only.

Coolant flush & fill: Every other season

Techron Fuel Injector cleaner every other tankfull and/or Marvel's Mystery Oil at every other oil change.


JB

Most newer OHC and DOHC engines have "self adjusting valves", that doesn't mean that they are self adjusting for life. They still need to be adjusted and shimmed every 60K miles. The 1UZ and 5VZ in my toyota products are classic examples of every 60K miles, although I do understand that the engine in the S2000 uses "self Adjusting valves" that only need adjusting every 100K miles.

Self adjusting valves just means that they don't have to be adjusted every 15K miles as in the '70s and '80s.

Both my owners manual and my repair manual says that they never have to be adjusted ececpt if valve noise increases. So that is not regualar maintance. The car is 13 years old and has never had it done and it run great.

Enough about piston cars, i still would like to know what some of you guy do to keep you rx7 running.

Jason - Think about a high pro piston car, it's not much different, although, as many have mentioned, you have to be a bit more anal about oil and coolant levels. there's a lot of people on here who change their oil every 2k to 2400 miles instead of 3k, just to be on the safe side. But if you take good care of it, engine wise, they appear to be solid engines with great reliability. Interior wise, the S4s (before 88?) seem to be a higher upkeep as far as little plastic trim breaks and things like that.. um.. not too much more i can add I think... personally, i feel that anyone who tells you a rotory is unreliable just didn't take care of it...

rotary engines are reliable to a certain point. As with all engines, they get weaker as they get older. The apex seals on them is like the popular way of them going, and that is usually from just old engines, or detonation. You shouldnt EVER have to worry about overheating if you take care of your coolant system.

Rotary engines also are more prone to revving than piston. I dont give a fuck what you piston owners say, but an object moving in an epichoidrial path with centrifugal force is going to want to continue moving that same direction due to inertia. So reving it up high will actually not put as much stress on the engine as a motor that is pushing and pulling in opposite directions. Revving high and 'beating up' the engine is actually something you should do as maintainence becuase if carbon builds up...it only takes one time for the apex seal to stick and scratch the housing or break off, causing a blown engine.

The rotary engine got its bad name mostly becuase of the 3rd gens. their inefficiant fuel system and twin turbo's drain the engines life and are time bombs to people who dont know shit about how to take care of rotaries

Thanks for all you help i think that i will look for a good used 89-91 rx7. I'm still not sure about turbo or N/a but I will see what is for sale and make my choice. I think that with proper care and seeing how some peole of 200k on rotary i have no doubt to it is a relibably car with careful care. Thanks again.