Trusted thermostat
What thermostat is everyone running? Where can I get a reliable, quality OEM thermostat from? I've searched but everyone has had problems with the stant which is apparently what Mazda and Mazdatrix sells. I'd prefer to buy one locally so I don't have to wait. The Autozone one seems to have good reviews.
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Napa.
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autozone sells a failsafe brand, if the thermostat fails it's designed to fail in the open position. I have not used it yet nor know it's operation but when the time comes for me i'll probably get the failsafe. I think it's closer to $20 bucks tho, actually I'm not even sure if they make it for our application, but i'd check if I were you.
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I think a lot of people want the OEM one with the jiggle pin, but Mazda isn't even selling it anymore?
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My local dealer still has the OEM thermostat with the jiggle pin, so that's what I use.
When those run out I'll probably still buy them from the dealer, but drill a little hole in place of the pin before installation. |
i run the car without a thermostat.
in one summer i went thru 2, both of them failed, and ended up closed. so no more problems ever since i did this |
No more problems except higher engine wear, lower mileage, and the risk of overheating (assuming you didn't plug the bypass).
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Mazdatrix doesn't sell oem's?? I ordered a mazda oem one through them last spring...
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 9691584)
No more problems except higher engine wear, lower mileage, and the risk of overheating (assuming you didn't plug the bypass).
lower mileage ???... what do you mean. and it stopped the overheating problem when i removed it. it never went higer then 1/3 on a hot day. otherwise it was stable at 1/4. and which bypass are you talking about !?? |
Thats what I read, one guy tried like 3 Mazda tstats and all failed. Anyway I followed clokker's suggestion and went to NAPA. The thermostat (ordered an FD one as he suggested-the listed one for the FC is too big) is made by Tama enterprises from Japan and it has the jiggle pin and comes with the O ring. Opens at 180*F. Pics are next to my old one with no jiggle pin which worked without problems for ~60k miles and 3 years:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Picture049.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Picture050.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...cture052-1.jpg |
My local Mazda dealer still has them as of about 6 months ago. Eww look at that dirty keyboard.
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Originally Posted by got_boost
(Post 9691718)
lower mileage ???... what do you mean.
and it stopped the overheating problem when i removed it. it never went higer then 1/3 on a hot day. otherwise it was stable at 1/4. and which bypass are you talking about !?? |
Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 9691765)
the problem is with running sans tstat, you dont actually know the engines temp. sure the water temp is cooler but thats because its not able to stay in the block and do its job of absorbing heat. which means the heat is staying inside the engine, making it run hotter and killing lifespan. your temp gauge isnt there to measure water temps, its there to measure engine temps. its no longer accurate if there is no gate to monitor the flow of the water.
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what reasons then?
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OP, why the rusty Tstat? Not using proper a/f coolant mix?
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Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 9691814)
what reasons then?
2. The pump and cooling system was designed to have the thermostat in its housing. The primary and bypass system was not designed to freeflow without it. Thus there is no control over where the water goes. This can POTENTIALLY under certain circumstances actually starve the engine coolant passages of minimum proper coolant GPM while at operating temp. (gallons per minute or volumetric flow). Supplemental: Measuring coolant temp is not ever actually measuring engine temperature, thermostat or no thermostat. It is just the generally accepted method of monitoring engine temperature. Assuming a full cooling system (no air) you can still reasonable expect that your coolant temp sensor is reading properly (except if it is the stock piece of crap). This is also assuming that the sensor is in the proper location. Further, in rotary engines the oil temp is the more important parallel indicator of engine temperature. |
Originally Posted by pfsantos
(Post 9691815)
OP, why the rusty Tstat? Not using proper a/f coolant mix?
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Originally Posted by got_boost
(Post 9691718)
lower mileage ???... what do you mean.
and it stopped the overheating problem when i removed it. it never went higer then 1/3 on a hot day. otherwise it was stable at 1/4. and which bypass are you talking about !?? When my wife's Saturn's cylinder head temp sensor failed a couple winters back, the mileage went down noticeably, you could smell fuel in the exhaust (a-la RX-7!), and the oil smelled of gasoline and got visibly dirty quickly. It also took a lot longer to warm up, because of the ECU kept it running rich, even when the dash gauge showed it was up to operating temp (runs off a different sensor), because the ECU was seeing a cold engine. |
And as another bonus when your car runs rich it destroys your cat converter (assuming you have one)! Which in turn causes more engine wear and heat!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cascade_failure |
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