tps adjustment, one light does not work on tester.
 

ok first off i just wanna say i searched, but came up with a lot of unrelated results. that being said i will explain my problem. i looked in the fsm also, and i couldnt pinpoint my problem.

so ive tried to adjust my tps. i have the 2 lights hooked to the green plug and what not. when i hit the throttle only one light flicks on for a split second, the other one does nothing. i know the bulb isnt burnt out because ive switched the wires and still that one "side" of the green plug makes the light flash. ive taken a picture of the plug and will point out which wire IS NOT lighting the bulbs. it is the BLUE/YELLOW wires in the green plug.

now my question is, what the hell could be causing this? the last time i adjusted my tps it was fine, both lights lit up fine, i adjusted it and everything was good. now my car needs emissions done and i cant tune it cause this problem. any ideas, input, tricks, or suggestions welcome. even if you know where these wires connect to so i can trace the problem down. thank you very much for your time.

heres the picture

The adjustment is to be made with car up to operating temp, engine off, ignition on and only one light is to be lit. If both, or neither is lit, turn the adjusting screw until only one light is lit. It can be done on a cold engine, but you'll need to move the high idle cam so that the throttle drops done to hot idle position, then continue.

Ditch the lights.

Measure the voltage at the pins and adjust it to spec...

If you want to stick with using the lights method then with the car fully warmed up and running, back probe the L/Y wire as you turn the adjustment screw of the TPS until the voltage drops to 2 volts or less. The LED lights can be hooked up to the plug while doing this and see if the light connected to the L/Y wire lights up when this is achieved as it should.

If you set the TPS to 1 volt on the G/R wire at the TPS then the voltage on the L/Y wire should read less than 2 volts and not 12 volts.

Also, when properly warmed up and either running or key to on as you remove the blue relief solenoid plug from the solenoid as well as reconnecting it you should hear a clicking sound.

thanks for the responses. i have work tomorrow, but as soon as i get some free time, i will let you know whats going on.

I tried the resistance method, and the voltage method and they never worked for me. The LED test light always hit it spot on. YMMV, but that is my experience.

To clarify, I would go for a good drive and get the entire engine nice and hot, let it heat soak for about 5 minutes and then have at it with the test lights, and it has never failed me.

Done it many times and the only method that proved 100% was the test lights.

its a legal move to open the throttle with one hand, and push the TPS plungers with the other.

if you can't find a spot where 1 light is on, you either have a bad TPS tester, or bad TPS

i like the light method too, its the OUTPUT from the ECU, in effect the ECU tells you its happy.

the resistance method, is on the input side, so it doesn't factor in the harness or the ecu variables

yeah like i said before the light method worked for me like a charm before. i passed emissions no prob, the tester was actually quite surprised at how well it did and then im stuck with this.
you know i was doing some thinking at work today. ever since i almost overheated my car (coolant line blew and temp gauge got to 90% VERY quickly) ive been having some very strange problems with my car. the idle has not been the same since, i had to adjsust the idle screw all the way down. even then it was still at around 1200. some other probably unrelated electrical issues with the interior also started happening too. but idk.

im pretty busy the next few days but ill try to keep yall posted

As Aaroncake has said the best way to adjust the TPS is VIA voltage. if the voltage dosent work test it with the ohm sweep, you might need a new TPS if they dont pan out.