Too much premix?
 

I was doing some reading about pre-mixing...
I was told to put in 12 oz. per tank by previous owner.
However, I had been putting in 16 oz. per tank...
Is that too much? What would be appropriate ammount for a full tank of gas?
Also, will running too much premix do any harm?

Thanks in advance. :)

for race thats ok (it should be about a 200:1 ratio if yoru refilling about 15 gallons)

normally i would put a 400:1 ratio (about 1/2 that)

BTW: your stuff have TC-W3 rating on it right?

I'm doin an oz per gallon, running a tiny bit more like you are shouldn't have any side effects, just a waste of premix.

The only side effect from putting to much is it smokes a little bit...

You should do what I tell you to do!!:D

But seriously, here's the scoop on premix. 100 to 1 (one oz per gallon) is a good *safe* amount. You can go as low as 200 to one provided your not revving the shit out of the car. Remeber, as a general rule the higher the revs, the higher the premix ratio (higher revs mean greater centrifugal force of the apex seals on the housings requiring more lube).

~Hakan

I use 16oz to my tank. I typically fill it when its belowe the 1/4 tank mark. I have noticed since I've been doing this roughly a year now that she seems to run smoother, and the slight smell of 2 cycle oil. its not really strong just a feint smell. I've never seen her smoke or had anyone say she smokes other than the normal start up. I've used 2 different 2 cycle oil. bombadier which I got a gallon of and Quicksilver. I pour which ever one I have on me into the tank before adding gas. that way it'll mix a lil better.

a friend of mine, who also has an RX-7 swears that only 4pz. per tank should be used.

I told him I've heard from many people on here that 1oz/1gal is the best way to get approx. 150:1...but he thinks otherwise very strongly. I listen to him, because he generally knows more about cars than I do... Kinda confused.

But since my OMP is brand new, as is my engine, 4oz/tank is good enough for me :)

I called up Racing Beat and asked them what the recommend. they said that 3oz per 5 gal is a good streetable amount...when you race increace the amount(i didn't ask how much for this though)!

Get that OMP off your engine! Especially on a rebuilt motor, take the best care of the motor you can by only premixing and running synthetic oil.

I run 1 oz/1 gal in my AE.

In all the searching I've done, it seems that I'd be better served leaving it on. Aaron_Cake was saying that pre-mix cannot lube the apex seals like the OMP can.

Screw it, I'm leaving it as-is. Besides, I have a mechanical OMP and it would be a bitch to remove...that, and I don't want to have to constantly remember oil when I fill up. It's a daily driver for me.

Actually, removing a mechanical OMP is the EASIEST one to remove!! You simply unbolt it, block it off and your done. On a side note, the S5 OMP cannot be removed with the stock ECU....if there's no signal coming from the OMP, the ECU will think the OMP is broken and immediately go into "limp" mode and limit the revs to 4000.

There appears to be some confusion on pre-mix ratios. Essentially, there are two different types of premix:

1. Premix with the OMP
2. Premix without the OMP

For the first, the premix is basically an added safety measure. 400 to 1 seems to be the norm. For the second, a richer ratio is a must. 100-200 to 1 should be good.

:rofl:

I fail to see how the stock oil injectors could possibly lube the apex seals better than premix....

That doesn't make any sense. The oil injectors don't produce a real "mist" of oil, its more of an ooze. It requires the fuel mixture being added by the injectors to spread it through the system.

When you premix, the lube is mixed with the fuel and is atomized by the injectors, therefore will coat the apex seals more evenly than the stock oil injection system.

OK....CAN SOMEONE GO OUT AND TEST THIS ONCE AND FOR ALL...I MEAN GET SOME ENGINEERS TOGETHER AND LOOK AT EVERYTHING ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE MICROSCOPIC LEVEL AND LET US ALL KNOW...THIS WILL APPLY TO ALL ROTARIES!...END THIS DAMN CONTRAVERSY!

because when you pre-mix, it can't get in between the apex seal and the rotor housing wall. When you have the drip from the OMP, it drips along that rubbing edge of the apex seal, and the force of the seal hitting the drip will cause it to spread out along the whole seal (theoretically).

Doesn't sound like it could do any harm, really.

Plus, there's the whole issue of premix clogging injectors.



1987RX7guy: What is that smilie? what does it even mean?

If you have 100:1 premix and mix it at less then 100:1 (such as 400:1) then the premix is not at the mixture level it was designed to operate at.

The leanest you should run a premix is usually on the bottle. It is different for different premixes.

TC-W3 premix should not clog injectors. It's made for it. In fact, I'd even wager that given its lubricating properties, it could extend the life of injectors.

I've been running 20,000 miles so far on Amsoil 100:1 premix (at 100:1 mix ratio). The OMP is disabled and no problems so far, thank you very much.

So if you are running the MOP and want to premix, run a 400:1 ratio? I assume just like if you are running only premix to run a tank without premix everynow and again right?

If the OMP does not work, dont run a tank without premix. The apex seals will get no lubrication at all then.

There is a huge thread on all this in the archive. Go read it.

I have read them, they said it is good to run a tank (while not running hte engine hard) with out premix to clean it out.

Which is why every engine I've ever rebuild has a nice shiny, well-lubricated stripe following in the path of the MOP injector, and the surrounding sides are the ares experiencing wear?

The stock MOP is designed for those idiots who cannot be bothered to remember to premix. Mazda could not have released a car that required an additive to every tank of gas; they would have blown SOO many engines from negligence.

4 stroke oil has no purpose in the combustion chamber. Any engine builder who has seen the differences, including myself, will attest to this.

You need to run regular oil in a rebuild for several thousan miles to let the oil seals expand and seat properly. Using synthetic right off the bat will result in lots of oil leakage from numerous places.

I AGREE! SOME ONE END THE CONFUSION! THREADS LIKE THESE MAKE ME WANNA SCREAM! i say someone like hailers or icemark should get a list of pros and cons to premixing your fuel and make it a STICKY!!!!! these threads are kinda pointless, take up a crap load of space, and creat arguements.

ALL IN FAVOR OF A PREMIX PROS AND CONS STICKY, RAISE YOUR CYBER HAND!

in closing, my 87 N/A has survived 205,127 miles with regular oil changes ! so unless you have a 10,000 rpm beast under the hood or just have a malfunctioning OMP, id say its kinda pointless to premix.

-chris

Why don't you pay for the millions of dollars of research and testing to get it done???  Most of the nay-sayers are usually quoting somebody else or have no practical data to back their claims.

I've had spectacular experience with pre-mixing, and I'm not changing my mind on it anytime soon.

Who else can say they had their car sitting in the baking desert heat for 2 years and have the car turn over easily enough to start in a few tries?

I've got my pre-mix page here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.html

You can do whatever you want with it.

Too much controversy and banging heads against the wall is not what I call productive debating.

As to the original posters question, it seems that when you start to run pre-mix ratios down under 50:1 is when you get significant smoking out the exhaust.  We've run pre-mix ratios down to 50:1 when racing the cars on the track.


-Ted

i still say there is a need for a premix Pros and Cons sticky. or atleast add it on to a current sticky. all that is needed is a list of good points and a list of bad points of premixing. also maybe a mix chart for several types of situations that would call for premix.

like if youre running a stock motor and dont really dog it out but would like the comfort of a safety net use a 400/1
or high RPM high boost application use a 200/1
and for racing use 100/1

this may not be accurate, it was just an example. i think it would be helpful to have a chart or something though.

-chris