Hey personally I would stick with fuel injection, i had a 86 gxl that i did carbs on and it made it alot slower, i first went with the 45mm webber dcoe side draft and i lost at least 15hp from stock. then i went to the 51mm sp webber side draft and i was a stock horse power as normal n/a. it is not worth the money in my own oppion. i had full exaust and all the weight reduction. it cost me $2000 to get everything plus tuning it and stuff.

Not cutting, drilling then chamfering the holes so there isn't an edge. (and I'll bevel the back of the holes too)

I'm going this route because, I don't like the idea of my motor blowing up when vibration and time take out the bridge and everything goes with it.

I do realize that I won't flow as well as a true bridge port, but I can live with that for the longevity gained.

Because they don't know what they're doing. The stock 550cc/min Turbo injectors are capable of flowing enough fuel to support ~300hp if fuel pressure is maintained. Those people who are making less than that and think they need bigger injectors are failing to relise it's the stock pump that can't keep up, not the injectors.

i have installed a carb on a 86 and used the factory ignition without any problems

As did i. . . I got my weber sidedraft setup (w/ racing beat upper and fuel crap) for $450:D

I also used the stock ignition but it limits my performance
 

I recently converted my fuel injected S5 Motor in my S4 1988 RX7 Convertible to a 600 CFM Street/Strip Holley Carb.

I wanted to go with a Weber 44 or 48 IDA Sidedraft setup since there is more power to be gained above Stock Fuel Injection. This was a suggestion by Carlos Lopez of CLR Motorsports Miami.. I was desperate to get my ride back on the road so i opted for a transitory option in the meantime. Charlie of Turbo Clinic suggested a Holley Carb and I wish I would have waited for the Weber.

My girlfriend hates the fumes and odor that the Holley puts out.. also I have noticed that the Holley is a good carb for straight aways but not for cornering or curves. The odor with the Holley is quite pungent.

The Weber setup eliminates any bogging on turns, slopes, hard cornering and curves.. it's actually an all around better option for the FC. Back in the early 80's I used to race a 1969 VW Beetle in NY that had 48 IDA webers, a Hot camshaft, and other goodies and was doing 10.69 in the quarter.

When it came to the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator argument. Here are the pros and cons..

Normally one would think that going with a Holley Carb setup would require that you replace the stock fuel injected fuel pump that creates more pressure close to 40 psi because at that rate it will blow out the gasket in the float bowl. It happened to me and Charlie's mechanics came out to rescue me and Jonathan along with Steve did a great job of getting me back on the road. Charlie had the Holley fuel pressure regulator P/N 12-803 which i paid $33.00 separately for out to its maximum adjusting position. Keep in mind that i am using the stock fuel injected fuel pump that came with my vert. His suggestion was to purchase the Holley "Blue" fuel pump P/N 12-812-1 for the low price of $120.00 and another $80.00 in labor to hook it up. I also had a liquid filler Russell Fuel Pressure gauge $24.00 installed with my Holley setup that unfortunately is on there for looks because it doesnt register anything at all as you will soon find out as you read on.

Carlos Lopez had a solution for me that would eliminate the problem without having to replace the fuel pump which would be expensive at this point in the game. I gotta tell you that this man knows his shit really well dealing with RX7's and Rotary Technology. He suggested replacing the Russell fuel pressure gauge since it was not registering or reading. One way he came to that conclusion is to attach a tool that he has to correctly adjust fuel pressure that is made of an older version VDO gauge and fuel lines attached to it. Then what he did next was to remove the Holley Fuel Pressure regulator and its place install a Malpassi (Made in Italy) Fuel Pressure Regulator that is shaped like a flying saucer and with his gauge he was able to set the pressure at 6psi. I was able to keep the same stock fuel injected pump that came with my vert. Another person that was in agreement with this setup is Dennis DeSilva "RPM Doctor" forum name of High Tech Auto. Carlos got my new reborn FC Convertible "Jezebel" running right... all we had to do is just use the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator that retails for about $85.00 or so.

All in all I made out pretty well and it goes to prove to the old saying: "You get what you pay for "

Carlos Lopez is a genius at what he does best and this man has a world of knowledge and in the next couple of weeks I will be getting the Weber 48 IDA Carburetor and Manifold from Racing Beat. The Holley carb is a good setup and its simple to actually do the conversion so I will have the Holley Carb up for sale within the next couple of weeks as I will be going with the Weber setup that Carlos Lopez suggested to begin with. I will also be going with a single turbo setup and he will be the person to build this motor together.


Malpassi Vs. Holley

I recommend using the Malpassi Fuel Pressure Regulator instead of the Holley. This is a pic with the Malpassi Installed .. this pic shows the stainless steel braided lines and of course the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator. This is pic is just to give you an idea as to what the conversion looks like.. this Holley Carb and manifold set up will be up for sale soon. I expect to get what i paid for .. this system was installed just last week so it is still relatively new.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...frontview1.jpg

Most of you are talking carbs vs EFI for the sake of more power. I just want something less complicated and easier to work on. I love my '89 vert when its running. I've had it with fuel and electrical issues. Is it possible to use the intake and carb from a first gen car....without major modifications? I know where I can readily find one of those.

Yes. You just need to make an adapter (or buy from Mazdatrix) to fit the intake manifold to the longer block. Keep in mind you still need to take care of fuel (reg, pump) and ignition. And the major pain in the ass factor of tuning a carb to work well under all circumstances, when the stock EFI does it automatically.

OK, took a look at their site. Will have to call them tomorrow. So if I go with a carb, distributor, new exhaust, will I have any use for the ECU? Will all the gadgets and gauges in the interior still function?

You'll have no use for the ECU.

Sounds like a lot of trouble to go through for a downgrade. :)

Its not that complicated...
 

In my setup I dont have a distributor... I just have the Holley Carb, Manifold, Malpassi fuel pressure regulator... and the stock crank angle sensor with the spark plug wires... the ECU is still in tact and I have some really nice HP

Now , I will get the distributor which will do away with the ECU for the most part and it will work fine.. better response and less problems...

the gadgets and gauges still function...
https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...frontview1.jpg

Talk about bringing a thread back from the dead... To think if i still had this car.. damn... hehehe i just think its funny that i made this about 3 years ago and its still alive..
Dave

It was dead for a little bit....

Though, carb sucks..... ;)

i have a sidedraft weber dcoe 45 carb. how much of a gain in hp do you think it would make if i put it on my 85 fb

I also have the 45 DCOE Weber
 

That is pretty cool...I would like to see your set up ... I have a 2nd gen vert which you know is heavy... but with the 45mm Weber I have greater low end torque and with the 6th ports vacuum actuators top end as well... i like it.. check out my pics


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...RMOTOR1037.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...OTOR2LH041.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...DOOROPEN08.jpg

Preacher, I too have a convertible that I recently converted to Carb. I have the Racing Beat setup. I am in the middle of tuning it and am finding it difficult! I wanted to know if you still have the gas odor problem with the weber? Any cold star issues? I am thinking of switching to the weber. Also, where can I get a malpasi pressure regulator? Thanks for the help!

is that a rising rate fuel regulator?

Why downgrade to a carb?

We've covered this (in this thread in fact).

Holley running great! What timing are u running?
 

After properly ajusting the accelerator pump linkage (had to do some grinding to gain clearance) the Holley is running great! I have a Malpassi fuel pressure regulator on the way and I am going to eliminate the Mallory fuel pump that racing beat recommended and revert back to the stock fuel pump. When I am finished the break in period I will bring to the dyno for tests. For those that are running carbs what timing are you running with the leading and trailing ignition?

I run a carb on my camden. My buddy went from efi to carb, then back to efi, then carb again and finally back to efi. The efi was by far the best setup for a stock or streetported 13b.

And that's coming from an old dog that knows little about efi and is capable of working on almost any carb. I'd stay efi!

Hey guys,
I have a 13B Nikki carb on a T2 block, 1st gen dizzy and 2GDFI setup. Can't get them damn thing started...is there something special I should know about setting timing?
Thanks,
Owen

Carlos Lopez of CLR Motorsports did my 45MM weber carb setup and the sidedraft setup is by far the best .... no problems... he used the stock fuel pump and the best Fuel Pressure regulator: MALPASSI

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...7/IMG_2775.jpg

Setting the timing in the middle of the adjustment should be fine for starting as long as you aren't one or more teeth off...Does the engine want to spin backwards when you crank and go against the starter?

Do you have spark? What about a little shot of ether into the carb...does it fire then?