Update : I've check so far and everything is in good working order.

-Water thermosensor
-AWS selenoid
-Intake thermosensor
-TPS Full Range
-Crank angle sensor

I've found that I don't have the Water Thermoswitch on my water pump and I use to have it (the previous owner did a terrible job...). I'll install my old water pump that has it when I'll receive my gasket. I have to be patient to verify the rest :

- Désactivate BAC valve and unplug it.
- Reconnect my auto trans cumputer : if it changes something, find why !!!!
- Play with my AWS selenoid (unplug it, block it, etc...)
- Verify the connections at the ECU level.
- etc...

Water thermo switch? It should only have a thermosensor. What do you mean by thermoswitch?

It's not related to our problem. It's just for the electric fan and I think it's for the A/C and when the temp is over 207*F. It's not all the FC that have it...

It's a plug just under the water thermosensor.

I just did on my 86 NA. (not sure how different the turbo or s5 are) Here is the drill:

Slip off the fresh air hose from the split air pipe, (goes to the air intake) because it will be in your way.

Record the adjustment of the dash pot by measuring how far it's threads stick out from the mounting plate so you can reinstall it to the same position later. Most calipers have a rod that sticks out the end for this, but you can get creative if you don't have one... use 2 markers side by side or something. Anyways,

Remove the dash pot by taking off the nut that locks it's adjustment and unthreading the dash pot (screwing it out) from it's mounting plate.

Once the dash pot is out, you can grab the head of the thermowax adjustment screw with a pair of needle nose pliers and adjust it. I used a pair of needle nose vice grips since they have some mechanical advantage and sharp teeth.

Easy! Plus, now there is room to reach in and pull the thermowax arm down to see if it is still holding the throttle open.

If your car is like mine and the thermowax is not retracting as much as it did when new, (and not allowing the throttle plates to fully close despite being fully up to temperature) you will need to crank the screw IN. (further compressing the spring)

Good luck. :gwink:

Ok, finally, my RX7 is out and running. Still have the cold idle problem.

What I've check so far :
- No mods.
- Everything on the TB is adjusted well (TPS full and narrow range, thermowax, butterfly openings, fast idle screw...)
- No vacuum leaks
- Water thermosensor : ok.
- AWS selenoid : ok.
- Intake thermosensor : ok.
- Crank angle sensor : ok.
- Désactivate BAC valve : nothing changes
- Change Airflow meter : nothing changes

What still needs to be done :
- Unplug BAC valve before I start the engine.
- Reconnect my auto trans cumputer : if it changes something, find why !!!!
- Play with my AWS selenoid (unplug it, block it, etc...)
- Verify the connections at the ECU level.

Problem solved !

Just had to reconnect my auto trans cpu. It's just weird that they say in the trans swap that you have to disconnect it.

The good thing about my situation is that I checked and learn alot of things about my rotary engine in the process.

And my "Top Less" is in perfect, perfect working order !!!

Thanks to everyone for your help !

I fixed my issue too.

I built the mazda TPS adjustment tool with the two LED's and it worked perfect. I the idle test connector, put in my TPS adjuster and started the car and set it.

Idles perfect now :)

The resistance method using a multimeter didn't work, even after trying like 10 times. It may work for some, but wouldn't do the job on my 7.

The LED test is best because it gives more an overview of your system. The multimeter just tells you if the TPS works fine.

So cool, 2 RX7 are at there best now !

:)

rasing the dead
 

Hate to bring back a dead thread but what the hell. I have the same problem as the rest of you fellas but cant figure out my problem. I rather keep this thread going since theres a lot of useful info.

(S4 N/A M/T) My motor ran flawless before the swap. (full engine,trans,harness,ecu from the previous car in which it ran mint) Even after the swap it was fine for over a week. Then one day it starting acting up while cold. Ive set my TPS with the LED method and even used the LED method to run codes in which non came up.

99% sure no vac leaks
Never touched timing
TPS is and was set perfect the whole time
unplugging BAC valve changes nothin (even cleaned it before)
ACV blocked
no clutch switch
Not sure about neutral switch but heard other dont have it?

I really dont know where to go from here. Any specific order i can be guided through??????

Mine still does it(auto trans still not plugged in), and with the the aws disabled in the ecu(rtek) the car doesnt idle cold worth a shit...But the idle revs up then fuel cuts as hailers said(verified by plx wideband).