Thermoswitch not necessary w/ e fan?
Ok, so when i was replacing my water pump this week the wire to the thermoswitch from the connector snapped at the base of the connector. Since I have already converted to an e fan, do i need to replace this part? Does the ECU need this sensor to run properly?
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so maybe i should specify.... my e-fan runs continuously. Logic tells me no then, the thermoswitch off the water pump doesn't matter. (I'm assuming this thermoswitch runs the old clutch fan.) Just looking for some feedback
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Your e-fan shouldn't run continuously. That needs to be fixed.
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7024232)
so maybe i should specify.... my e-fan runs continuously. Logic tells me no then, the thermoswitch off the water pump doesn't matter. (I'm assuming this thermoswitch runs the old clutch fan.) Just looking for some feedback
Take a look at the stock thermoclutch fan and try to see any electrical connections that the thermoswitch might activate. Right...there are none- the stock fan is heat activated and mechanically controlled. I believe the sensor who's wire you broke feeds info to the ECU. |
You need to clarify what you have on your car, coz your posts are confusing...
Do you still have the stock thermoclutch fan? Or have you replaced it with a electric fan? Do you have the stock auxiliary e-fan in front of the radiator? Which of these fans is running continuously? The S5 has both the ECU thermosensor and the thermoswitch for the auxiliary e-fan on the back of the water pump. If you don't have the e-fan, you won't have the thermoswitch. If you only have one of those, then you've broken the ECU thermosensor and must replace it. |
If you have and auxillary electric fan located in FRONT of the radiator, then it will run continuously if the Water Temp Switch on the water filler neck/thermostat housing has it's electrical wire (green/black) pulled off the temp switch.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the aux fan it will make complete sense to you. I believe another way to make that fan come on is to pull the BTN fuse. Might be another fuse but for right now I believe that is the fuse. If your talking about any other fan/switch other than the one on the water thermostat housing (on top), then ignore this post. Oh. IF it is that water temp switch with the green/black wire, that is it's only function. To operate the aux fan when the water temp is a bit over 200 degrees F. With that wire off, it'll run any time the key is put to ON. |
Originally Posted by HAILERS
(Post 7024876)
If you have and auxillary electric fan located in FRONT of the radiator, then it will run continuously if the Water Temp Switch on the water filler neck/thermostat housing has it's electrical wire (green/black) pulled off the temp switch.
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to further clarify, I'm running:
an electrical fan (don't know which manufacturer, but not stock) that is drawing power from the fuse box, in fact the fan fuse. NO clutch operated fan (stock, assembly removed) the thermoswitch connector next to the thermosensor connector on the top of the waterpump busted. So on my s5, it should just run when the car is "on" and not have problems until i can get it replaced? |
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
(Post 7024955)
That only applies to S4's, not S5's.
TXFCTURBOII...........Try to forget what I wrote. I was thinking stock electric auxillary fan on a series four car. I know zippity do dah about series five/aftermarket electric fans. |
Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7026863)
...an electrical fan... that is drawing power from the fuse box, in fact the fan fuse.
the thermoswitch connector next to the thermosensor connector on the top of the waterpump busted. So on my s5, it should just run when the car is "on" and not have problems until i can get it replaced? It sounds like your fan needs a complete rewire... http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm |
That switch triggers at something like 209 degrees F.
That said, here's a little story. For one reason or the other I was idling the engine with the mechanical fan off the car. Not a good practice, but anyway, after a while that aux fan came on when the water got plenty hot. Ooops. Well the fan went off a few minutes later. Hmmmm. Then it came on a bit later......then went off. So that little sucker will do a fairly good job of cooling, at idle anyway. We're talking about it being in front of the a/c condenser also, which is in front of the radiator. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. Don't read anything into these words. There is no secret meaning. Just a simple story. |
The fan works just fine; I've got a warning light tied in series with the power to the fan..... if it goes out, then my fan isn't working and i stop driving. I have no auxillary e fan, only the aftermarket one; and a griffin radiator. If there is no auxillary e-fan for aux. e-fan thermoswitch to control......... then like my origi-question asked....... is it necessary to have the thermoswitch on there? Will the ECU freak out and limp me out? But i guess there is only one way to see.....
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7027868)
The fan works just fine...
If there is no auxillary e-fan for aux. e-fan thermoswitch to control......... then like my origi-question asked....... is it necessary to have the thermoswitch on there? Will the ECU freak out and limp me out? Limp me out? :p: |
thanks for the help; and i will look into getting that fan re-wired. Oh and btw, limp me out..... limp mode.
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I know, it just sounded funny. :D
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AHHH!!!! looks like I'll be replacing that sensor anyway, now I'm having hot start issues!!!! Anyone know a good trick to bypass the sensor on an s5? Hailers?
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AHHH AGAIN!!!!! Now my entire idiot box just lit up, and the idle bounces!:icon_no2:
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7027868)
is it necessary to have the thermoswitch on there? Will the ECU freak out and limp me out? But i guess there is only one way to see.....
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7024232)
I'm assuming this thermoswitch runs the old clutch fan.
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So the thermosensor must have busted too then, maybe just vibrated loose, the snap that locks it into place on the back of the pump busted when my dad helped me remove the housing. The lights on are either from a bad alternator, fried CPU or loose wires to the CPU, right?
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
(Post 7032978)
AHHH!!!! looks like I'll be replacing that sensor anyway, now I'm having hot start issues!!!!
The lights on are either from a bad alternator, fried CPU or loose wires to the CPU, right?
Originally Posted by fossil_484
(Post 7033738)
There are two temp switches. One is on top facing down into the filler neck on the water pump. That is for the optional fan in front of the radiator.
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Sorry, I'm not trying to confuse anyone, I did completely break off the thermoSWITCH connector, I also cracked the snap on the thermoSENSOR connector. But it seems those connections were just loose (the thermoSENSOR and the 2-pin alternator connector), I took them out and very snugly put them back in and I haven't had any hot start problems today, and my light box is back to normal.... I tested the alternator and it's working fine as well. So problem solved for now?
New question: currently I've got stock primary injectors and 720cc secondaries w/ a walbro fuel pump and a Apexi S-AFC II. Would it be within the limits to move the 720cc's to the primary injectors and upgrade the secondaries to 1000cc's? |
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