t2 swap conversion compression numbers
hello please dont flame me or anything... i just want some helpful advice from anyone who wants to give there 2 cents or has had this hard decision in there life from going n/a to t2 before i think to do a t2 swap, so here goes... i have a s4 gxl and i found a t2 motor rebuilt/streetported with a hybrid turbo that i was thinking about buying with everything complete all the way to the drivetrain. the motor in the video looked and sounded great. they also showed me the compression test numbers which they used a digital compression gauge. the compression numbers are as follows: Front 91 93 99 at 241 rpm and back 97 104 101 at 243 rpm, with steady psst psst psst... when it was warm. this was done by a reputable rotary shop and i would like your opinion on if it is healthy enough for my DD and occasional drifting/track needs. i plan on keeping the motor stock with slowly adding just reliability mods/racing beat complete exhaust as money comes in, thanks.
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Originally Posted by lowjack7
(Post 10385948)
i would like your opinion on if it is healthy enough for my DD
Originally Posted by lowjack7
and occasional drifting/track needs.
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Sounds like a healthy engine, buy it!
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thanks guys i really appreciate your input :)
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for those experienced with driving t2's... how is the reliability in stock form and hows your MPG's treating you?? what reliability mods do you prioritize first?? thanks
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Originally Posted by lowjack7
(Post 10386650)
for those experienced with driving t2's... how is the reliability in stock form and hows your MPG's treating you?? what reliability mods do you prioritize first?? thanks
keep the boost stock and downpipe stock if you don't have any extra fuel comming in, otherwise you'll spike to 16psi easy. If you keep the injectors 550 across, boost stock adn drive it well (not labouring it, keeping it in vaccum) you should see roughly 350-450km a tank. (depends on how hard you drive it, dunno how much it is in miles) Reliability mods would be, fuel cut defender, blow off valve, (premix as said above) Then i'd do, fuel pump walbro, port wastegate Upgrade the ECU/injectors and then do downpipe/exhaust. The turbo should spike to 12-14psi easily with the waste gate fully open (atleast mine does, stock wastegate :P) |
thats some great advice fleemer. ill definitely keep those tips in mind, thanks.
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thanks you guys who responding.... im getting the swap done by lucky7 as we speak. CANT WAIT!! :)
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did you ask them why its for sale? did they decide to put another of the same motor in the car or swap to something else?
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Yeha, DDing a race-car is no fun (I had to when my actual DD broke and it was a pain. Not that I can't take the bumps from everything on the road, it's just you don't get that fun feeling since you're trying to keep stable a car that itches to go and that's all it can do...)
Also, your MPG depends on your driving style. I've seen my Maverick get 30 mpgs by carefully driving it as opposed to 14 when I normally drive it. Same with Civics getting 17 instead of the 45 by driving carefully... |
Originally Posted by w0ppe
(Post 10388282)
Also, your MPG depends on your driving style. I've seen my Maverick get 30 mpgs by carefully driving it as opposed to 14 when I normally drive it. Same with Civics getting 17 instead of the 45 by driving carefully...
No idea how the gearing is on the rx7 as I haven't driven mine yet. I do a lot of highway driving when I do drive. |
Gearing does take part; however, you can't adjust your gearing ratios while you are driving (yes you can shift gears but not the ratios).
That and I hate doing transmission work. I'm just terrible at it :( RX-7s also IMHO have a good set of ratios to work with; especially the N/As. |
I daily drove my 10th AE for the last two years. The gas mileage is pretty bad especially if you like to put your foot into it like me. I went mainly for reliability mods with mine: Koyo rad, CS oil lines, Rtek 2.1 ECU, 720cc secondaries and a bunch of other stuff.
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cool thanks everyone.
Hypertek: He bought the complete t2 car because he wanted to part some stuff from it and then decided to sell the motor/drivetrain and t2 roller separately to make his money back. so basically im picking up the motor/drivetrain. the t2 roller is still for sale and its clean. fleemer and 1sweet had some good opinions on reliability mods. anyone else have and/or have recommended mods that they would like to share or prioritize in this thread for t2? thanks |
Originally Posted by lowjack7
(Post 10388828)
cool thanks everyone.
Hypertek: He bought the complete t2 car because he wanted to part some stuff from it and then decided to sell the motor/drivetrain and t2 roller separately to make his money back. so basically im picking up the motor/drivetrain. the t2 roller is still for sale and its clean. fleemer and 1sweet had some good opinions on reliability mods. anyone else have and/or have recommended mods that they would like to share or prioritize in this thread for t2? thanks Chris at Rotary Performance told me he shimmed his OMP linkage on his S4 vert to deliver a bit more oil. His car has 150k on the engine and they take it on highway trips and aren't even slightly scared. He suggested I start doing a little premix on my car (brand new engine) and it will last longer. Not sure how he shimmed the linkage but I am sure someone can chime in. |
here is a video link for the donor motor for my transplant:
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/b...216_151539.mp4 |
should be up and running early next week. Happy New Years in advance everyone!
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okay guys i put up a thread for my motor and drivetrain... so take a look if your interested.
https://www.rx7club.com/west-sale-wanted-classifieds-195/87-gxl-13b-na-motor-drivetrain-936285/ |
Originally Posted by Fleemer
(Post 10386667)
Reliability mods would be, fuel cut defender |
so is a aftermarket BOV a reliability mod? i was thinking maybe the only good thing its for is that its a turbo saver and makes i nice sound
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so here is a list that i made up in order of aftermarket mods that i am considering:
1. boost/water temp/air fuel gauges 2. koyo radiator 3. ported wastegate 4. rb downpipe 5. fcd 6. rb cat-back 7. AST mod give me your opinion and if you would add or remove something |
You really don't need it. Stock t2 have a recirculating bov system which let's the excess presure back into the intake where the computer compensates with more fuel. An aftermarket blowoff valve will just vent it into the atmosphere. Some people on the forum don't even use blowoff valves
Take off the AST mod. Only fd's have AST's |
thanks nataku for your input. i did realize the AST mod was just fd's. and oh well my swap came with a greddy BOV and sounds amazing lol
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On your swap you will also need a better fuel pump, larger secondaries and some kind of EMS to support the better exhaust
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yeah.. they hooked me up with a walbro 255 fuel pump and serviced the stock injectors. its really quiet which i love and it is without a cat. thanks magnaflow lol. i will get a vid up of my car now on my day off
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