T2, Starting Mods?
 

I'm going to start with a Turbo Timer (Apex'i) and FCD, who on the board makes one for cheap?

For actual power mods: Corksport downpipe and test pipe (3"), Racing Beat cat back (3") and a T2 intake (who makes one?).

Next will be a boost controller, electronic, what's a good one? Blitz?

Then I want to get an aluminum radiator, some bigger injectors (550s? Does rx7.com sell them as singles or no?), Apex'i super air fuel controller. Should I get a bigger fuel pump?
A Greddy FMIC, cover my ass now and down the road.

Then for suspension, a set of JIC FLT-A2s. That's it...for now.

Give me any suggestion on differnt parts of what I shouldn't run. I'm a n00b when it comes to rotorys.

On the top of you list even before the TT should be a Walbro Fuel pump, then Turbo Timer, Then Intake, I'd Either port the shit outa the wastegate or leave it open, or get some 720 cc secondairies before you go with the exhaust.

you have 550 injectors stock, and before getting a full 3" exhaust you're going to need more fuel. At least an S-AFC.

A walbro fuel pump or a rewired stock one is never a bad idea.

Ok so I'm going to get a walbro (250lph?), fcd, turbo timer, 720s and s-afc, gauges (boost, egt, oil temp, any others?) DIY intake, the full 3" exhaust, then the rest.

What about the injectors? Run them both primary and secondary? Do they come as a set?

Also openning the wastegate? how?

Shoulld I pre-mix too?

I always premix.. I figure it can't hurt things.


As far as injectors/things, it depends totally on what you are running/what ecu/etc.

You'll have to tune and find out.

i dont wanna take over someones post but hes talking about fuel and stuff that i want to . so i was wondering if i gut my cats put 680cc secondarys fd fuel pump rewired and mbc running at 7psi and keep the stock air box in s4 turbo 2 should i be fine wit out a super afc ? o and fcd is on the car already .

Ok I guess I'll run 720s secondary and if that not enough get them primary too.

Should I keep the omp for pre mixing or no?

Freddie: Stock fuel cut is like 8.6 psi, so you won't have to even worry about running lean until you pass that stock cut off area. (If your stock fuel pump is still putting out right)...Unless your going to make your T2's really fast, I like the 2.5 exhaust, as it can help from getting too high of boost...Just make sure you don't run lean...

How about doing some more maintenance related items first, like replacement of bushings, replacing oil cooler lines, flushing out oil cooler, refill all the fluids, etc...

I agree with Dougster, I have 2.5 downpipe and 2.5 catback, this keeps boost down. Alot of people begin modding there T2 with 3inch downpipe and that 3inch racing beat full exhaust without ever thinking about fuel. Three weeks ago I'm on 280 in Nothern Cal and this 10th anniversary T2 is behind me. I have a 87 T2, anyway we start to race from at a running start of 65-68 mph, he starts to pull away a little then I hear this sound like somebody threw metal trash cans on the freeway, the noise was coming from his car I downshifted into 4th and seen him pulling the the right of the road. Guess what happened, neglected fuel delivery!! First mods should be rewire pump, injectors and something to run those bigger injectors, if you want to mod your T2

I'll definately do the fuel stuff first but I don't want to do my piping twice, so I'm going to do the 3" exhaust after I get the fuel stuff in and spend some time tuning it with the s-afc.

bump.

What does rewiring the fuel pump entail?
Would it be worth it to just go ahead and get the walbro pump you guys recommended?

personally I'm going to get a walbro but I'm not sure what size. What size fuel pump?

G2 Racer just to let you know, if you run 720's in the secondaries your car is going to run "Pig Rich'' without some type of fuel controller "Like the Apexi S-AFC, or a Microtech,Haltech." I know this because im speaking from personal experience as I currently have that setup in my 88 T-II. The injectors im running are Greedy 720''s in the secondaries, and of course the stock 550''s in the primaries. And let me tell you that the car is running
"WAY TO RICH". Before I was running GSL-SE injectors in the secondaries, and the car was running perfect,
"It was F------ running hard" The reason I decided to go with the 720's is because I like to get on the highway and get on the car, and every now and then, if someone "trys me", we go at it for just a little while
usually I like to drop it to 3rd and redline it, and then OF COURSE throw fourth gear usually by then I have at least two or three car lengths on my opponent. "BY ALL MEANS I DONT CONDON DRAG RACING ON A PUBLIC STREET!!!" I decided to go with 720's for the margin of error as just to be sure im getting enough fuel, its like a little insurance policy for the motor. But getting back to the subject I highly recommend the following Mods in order 1. Get a intake, with a 3" inch TID". 2. Get a FCD 3. Re wire fuel pump 4. "IF YOU LIKE, GET A WALBORO OR A FD FUEL PUMP", EVEN THOUGH I PERSONALLY HAVE THE STOCK PUMP IN MY T-II AND MY CAR HAS NEVER RAN LEAN WITH THESE FOLLOWING MOD'S THAT IM LISTING" ALSO I HAVE NEVER RE-WIRED MY FUEL PUMP LIKE EVERYONE IN THIS FORUM RECOMMENDS, BUT I THINK IT'S A WISE IDEA TO DO IT AS EVERYONE RECOMMENDS IT BE DONE AS A PRECAUTION TO MAKE SURE THE F.PUMP IS GETTING THE PROPER VOLTAGE IT SHOULD BE GETTING." 4. Install the GSL-SE injectors in the secondaries. 5. Then you should get the full exhaust system with the 3"down pipe like you wanted to do. 6. A turbo timer 7. A boost, EGT , water temperature, oil pressure, and IF you have room a Oil temperature gauge as the stock gauges are a POS !!!" 8. GOOD SPARK PLUG WIRES LIKE R.BEAT, MSD, or Magnecor R-100 10 mm wires, "I got Magnecors and I recommend them highly" 9. I also run colder plugs, I run 9"s all the way around 10. A FMIC, with Blow off valve 11. And if you like, a MSD ignition "Even though the stock coil's, and ignition system are excellent from stock. 12. Always run 93 Octane in your car 13. And adding a little Bean Oil to a Full tank of gas every other fill up, helps keep the APEX Seals lubricated. 14. And probably the most important of all "DONT LET THE STOCK TURBO HIT MORE THAN 10-11 PSI, AS YOU CAN BOOST FREELY IF YOU LIKE TO 14 PSI OF BOOST, AS I HAVE SEEN SOME PEOPLE IN THIS FORUM HAVE DONE. BUT KEEP IN MIND THAT THE STOCK TURBO WAS NOT DESIGNED TO BE BOOSTED TO SUCH EXTREMES !!! AND AFTER AWHILE OF GETTING AWAY WITH 14-15 PSI OF BOOST THE OIL SEALS GIVE OUT, AND YOUR TURBO STARTS SMOKIN, TIME FOR A REBUILD....,JAJAJAJAJAJA. 15. A electronic boost controller, I recommend the Greedy Profec "B" as it is the easiest to use, and it works great. 16. I almost forgot a good radiator like a "Koyo" or a "Fuidyine" I think thats about it. 17. Get steel braided Oil cooler lines. THIS IS A GREAT RELIABILITY MOD" you will never have to worry about busting a POS stock Oil cooler line and take the chance of blowing your motor, and getting stranded. 18. Last but not least do a complete tune-up before modding your T-II, such as Oil and filter change,tranny/differential fluid, coolant flush, and change fuel filter, and also the thermostat. Sorry guys for the long post guys, I think that about covers it, if I missed anything please feel free to add anything.

So, how would one go about re-wiring the stock fuel pump??

And Donn: When you say GSL-SE you are talking 79-85 RX-7 right?

good tips donn

GSL-SE 84 85 on the 6 port frist gen . this isnt a for sale thing but my friend has a set for sale email me r5656@yahoo.com and rotor fest was off the hook .

you shouldnt have to need a safc if you u grade the exast only all you will need is a walbro fuel pumop and a f.c.d. by the way when you chance the fuel pump all you need to do is buy one from rx7store.net and just go in through the back hatch under the mat there is a axis panal take that off and you can pull the whole fule pump setup then just replace it its ez

Davidov, yes the GSL-SE injectors are from the first generation RX7. Sorry I took awhile to reply, as I get on the forum every other couple of days.

The Racing Beat cat-back won't mate to Corksport. Racing Beat will only mate to Racing Beat. You can cut the flanges and weld new ones to make it work or buy the complete RB system. Instead of upgrading from bumper to bumper why not leave the car stock. Set up a well working base. A healthy car from the start is a health car in the end. What's the current condition of the motor? Turbo? Cooling system? Oil system? I think you understand what I'm getting at now. Good luck!

Incorrect. The racing beat downpipe/presilencer combination, or header/presilencer combination will connect to any catback. The problem is when people try to connect a header directly to a catback... or a downpipe directly to the catback. It wont work, and you can't bolt on the stock catalytic converters onto the downpipe either. But the catback mating point is always the same, no matter which system, I have found.

For the love of God, DO NOT BUY A FCD!!!!!! At least until after you've at the very least installed an aftermarket boost guage, water temp guage, a/f ratio guage so you know what is happening with your car. Several people, myself included, have destroyed engines and turbos because of FCD. Do not install an FCD until you are slamming into fuel cut and at least twelve people on the forum agree that you have enough mods that you should be running into fuel cut.

very informational... i guess i have a platform or an idea to start from now when modding... so far i've been tuning everything up havent really been able to mod yet