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T2 buzzer problem
I had a little coolant leak from a missing nut, and thought the buzzing I was getting was due to it. There are no idiot lights on. I fixed the leak, filled the coolant, still getting the buzzer. Oil was changed two days ago, oil level is fine, so I don't think that's the buzzer, either. The only other recent modification I've done was to swap in an FD alternator. I thought maybe the alternator wasn't charging right, so I swapped the alternator from my 'vert to the T2. Not only did the buzzing not go away, now I have a new problem: The car kept running after I removed the key. I had to turn the engine off by removing the EGI fuse. When I went to put up the windows, I turned the car to "on" but didn't start the engine. This time, the coolant idiot light came on with the buzzer, so I think we've solved the buzzer part of my problem, it's related to the coolant sensor. However, the "running without key" is far more serious.
Any ideas??? |
im not sure... but if it were me i would double check the alternator wiring. that would be my first place to look.
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Originally Posted by $100T2
(Post 6915847)
Any ideas??? |
OK, I am going to swap the FD alt back on and that should get rid of that problem. Question: Is there some sort of air bleed that I can do to the radiator to make sure that I don't have air stuck in there and that's what's setting off the coolant buzzer?
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Come on, somebody must have some ideas on this.
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Sheeesh, impatient bastard. :p:
There's an air bleed on the side of the radiator. Here's how to properly fill the coolant.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
1. Put the heater in the HOT position (you'll need to turn the ignition on first to operate the stepper motor). Leave the heater on until your test drive at the end.
2. Make sure both the engine and radiator drain plugs are installed. 3. Remove the filler cap on top of thermostat housing, the radiator cap and the bleeder on the side of the top radiator neck. 4. Begin filling the water/coolant mix through the radiator neck until it reaches the top, then replace the radiator cap. 5. Continue filling through the filler neck until the bleeder overflows, and replace the bleeder cap (don't over tighten it or you'll ruin the plastic plug). Continue filling until the water/coolant reaches the top of the filler neck. 6. Start the engine and let it idle. The water level will probably drop a bit when the engine starts as the pump pushes the water into air pockets. Keep topping up the system as necessary. 7. Keep the engine running until the thermostat opens. You can tell when this happens as there might be another drop in water level, and the top radiator hose will start to warm up. 8. When the engine has reached operating temp and no more air bubbles are appearing in the filler neck, replace the filler cap. 9. Fill up the overflow bottle to the correct level. 10. Go for a test drive, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Make sure the engine reaches full operating temp but does not exceed it, and check the heater operates properly. 11. On your return, once the engine has cooled down, recheck the level at the filler cap (not the radiator cap) and the overflow bottle. |
Awesome, thank you!
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Originally Posted by $100T2
(Post 6919150)
Awesome, thank you!
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OK, I changed back to the FD alt, that took care of my "running while the key is out", opened the bleed screw on the side of the rad and topped off the coolant, and it seems all my problems are fixed.
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