Switching from Villager to Taurus efan
 

So, I installed a Mercury Villlager fan last week. It is the hottest time of the year, but my temps are higher than I'd like.
Cruising at 70, during mid-day (85-90 degs), temps will average between 192 and 198.
If I do 75-80, temps will go as high as 205. And that's without boosting.

I've got a decent-sized FMIC and an lrb undertray and Koyo radiator.

I've wired the Villager fan to run on high controlled by my Haltech - I've got it set to engage at 180 and 177 (initially set it low to test how well it cooled).

According to some posts I've read, the Taurus efan, though it doesn't cover the radiator as well cools much better than the Villager. Is this true?

My engine is a new build, 50/50 coolant, fairly new Koyo rad, undertray. Anything else/in addition I cld be doing to keep the temps down other than upgradinng to the Taurus Efan?

You should not be running the fan at speeds above 30 or so. You start impeding flow through the radiator. If you are overheating while cruising down the road, no fan is going to solve your problem. Make sure your radiator is fully ducted, since you have a front mount it sounds like, it is probably not.

if the shroud of the fan covers TOO much of the radiator it will make it run hot.
I already had this happen with another shroud I had.

If you got the fan decent price and want to experiment cut some holes in the shroud and see if it changes anything for you
if it works put some flaps or leave it like that
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/staggerd-dual-f&s.jpg

This!

Good info!

Mine looks something like the below. Seems it's mostly fan. Do you still think it would benefit from cutting holes in the non-fan/shrouded area?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b17101ac25.jpg

No, that shroud should be fine with no bypass vents.

Freq I have never tried the Villager fan although I had read about it here in all my searching. I went with a Dorman fan which is a replacement for the Taurus since I could buy 1 new. My car still gets quite warm as well. I doubt you will see much benefit in changing out the fan you have now. If it was overheating in standstill then that would be the Fan's problem. I guess these dang FMIC's blocks so much air lol. I also have put the under tray on as well. It does seem to help quite a bit and cool it down faster when it gets up there. I am getting an upper tray as well, but doubt that helps much either. I just put on a dual pulley as well for its multiple benefits in case if was causing the water pump to not cycle if the belt slipped and for the extra precaution of having 2 belts. My next step will be more ducting possibly and water injection I think. I know I will up the power before to long as well. Good luck in your cooling quests!

K, then I'll need to figure out ducting. I've got an fc2000 nose, so I'm thinking I could attach hoses to the 2 circular openings on either side of the main opening and somehow use to feed air in between the ic and the rad. I'm hoping that'll help.

I think, ultimately I need to get a vmount setup, but won't be able to fund that project for several months.

my first efan set up had a shroud that covered every part of the radiator, it was terrible at cruising speeds

if you have a fc2000 nose do you have any duct work directing air at all?
what fan/set up did you have before this?

I have no duct work at all.

I have always had the stock fan and that's worked great but Ive gone thru 2 fan clutches in a little over a year and it seems that they are getting more difficult to find, so tho ive been resisting switching to an efan for a long time, i figured its time to make the jump.

You don't need a v mount. You need to optimize the airflow through the front of the car. Put on a front undertray and duct the sides to force all the air coming in through the fascia to go through the radiator. Get the fan to turn off above 35-40 mph and you'll be good.

Wait, is this a brand new installation?

If so, have you verified that the efan is pulling air instead of pushing? A simple test consist of placing a sheet of paper in front of the radiator while the efan is running. If the sheet of paper gets sucked in into the radiator, you are good; if not, there is your problem.

The installation is maybe a week or 2 old. The eFan is pulling. Works the way it should when not on the highway.

A fan set to pull will work everywhere except when moving, especially if cruising. If you are positive that its pushing instead of pulling, then thats not it; if not 100%, I would confirm.

Your setup is "working" exactly backwards.
Over @30mph, you should require no fannage at all (in fact, even the fan shroud is an unavoidable restriction under these conditions) and that's where you need to get first.

Be it ducting, upgrading the radiator itself or reconfiguring your component layout, you need to get cooling at highway speeds under control without relying on the fan.
Until your basic cooling loop can deal with normal heat loads at speed, NO fan is going to help you.

I agree. Non-highway is fine, but cruising on the highway is the issue. From what I understand, on the highway, the cooling sb handled by incoming air, lowering the temp which shuts off the fan. Problem is, big FMIC is severely restricting that incoming air to the rad.

Going to try setting up ducting from the 2 open ports on my front fascia to send air to the sides of my undertray between the fmic and the rad. Hoping that will work/be enough fresh air. If not, going to have to come up with something more radical - ie $$$'s :-(.

Is it a language barrier? I feel like I am missing something.

I've been EXACTLY where you are at...

If the only thing you did was replaced your mechanical fan for a known efan that works based on the experience from other forum members, and started having cooling issues, IMO you don't need to look at ducting, or anything else.

I have zero experience with that fan, but I know that it works with a flex a lite black magic fan rated at 2800cfm.

Highway temps could also be affected by oil temps, if oil temps climb to 200F or so, the coolant temp will go up.

There's your problem, lady...so, fix it.

If you have the luxury of systematic experimentation, the first step would be removing the obstructing intercooler (just connect the inlet/outlet with a temporary tube) and confirming the radiator is up to the job on its own.
The better you can get the basic cooling loop, the more you can screw with its air supply when the (inevitable) intercooler is shoehorned in.
Don't ignore that air extraction is just as important as air introduction.

I would agree with this if he was having issues prior to the efan conversion (assuming nothing else was changed).

Yes a FMIC is a problem, whether efan or mechanical; my conclusion was that a FMIC would affect either fan setup equally (under the assumption that the Efan is one that moves over 2500cfm).

i have FMIC, I have AC condensor also , oil cooler, and with a tight shroud had high temps on the highway, good at cruise
switched to the taurus fan which doesnt cover the whole radiator and all issues were gone, no other changes

your results may vary

Possibly you are all describing a portion of the problem.

I didn't have the issue prior to the efan-possibly because, as Rob XX 7 pointed out..the efan shroud is more restrictive than the stock shroud. Means at highway speeds, the stock shroud will naturally flow more air--prob why there wasn't an issue prior to changing the fan.

That being said, last summer (when I installed the bigger fmic) I was running the stock temp gauge, so I could have been running somewhat higher temps than previous when I was running a smaller fmic-which was then exacerbated by the new restrictive shroud. Either way, that big fmic is a major restriction and the ductwork you guys mentioned def needs to be done.

Going to:
1. Source a Taurus fan or if I can't find one, try to make the current shroud less restrictive.
2. Figure out how to duct some fresh air to the rad after the IC.

If I can get both of the above done, I think I sb good. My digital temp gauge will let me know what's working and what isn't.

would take you like 3 minutes to knock some holes in that shroud.you know- for science and stuff

This. And if it works go get some rubber from Home Depot Racing and rivet some rubber flaps on to cover the holes at idle.

$1.31

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...eYsaAl9A8P8HAQ

https://static.summitracing.com/glob....jpg?rep=False

Just to be pedantic...how the flaps work:

Car at speed, fan off- flaps allow excess air (i.e., anything that can't exit through the fan hole) to escape from behind the shroud.

Car stopped, engine and fan running- fan suction closes the flaps, forcing
the fan to draw through the radiator core.

The more you know...