Sub-Zero Starting System
 

Any recommendations for the fluid that goes in here. A mix of water and antifreeze or is ready to use 50/50 better. Thanks

90% antifreeze, 10% water IIRC.

rip it out entirely. Factory TSB's called for it to be disabled because it was useless, worthless, and didnt work.

if you rip it out, what do you do with the lines that go to it? rip those out too?

Link to the TSB please, for reference?

I've heard of it, but would like to read the whole text.

Engine - Hard Cold Start
Notes


Category Applicable Model/s

5 1986-1988 RX-7
Subject HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE
Bulletin No. 018/88
Issued 10/17/88
Revised
DESCRIPTION

The following corrective action should be taken if a customer complains of hard starting in cold weather conditions under the following situations:

^ Restarting after short distance driving.
^ After moving from garage, stopping engine then restarting.





REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Change spark plug to new air gap type.

NOTE:
The new type of spark plug can be distinguished from others as follows.




2. Disconnect sub-zero starting assist device (if equipped).

NOTE:
Disconnecting the sub-zero starting assist device and the use of the new style spark plug are not recommended for carbureted engines prior to 1986. Mazda Motor Corporation has discontinued connecting the coupler for the sub-zero starting device. DO NOT reconnect this coupler at PDI or servicing.





PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE:
The above mentioned spark plugs (for hard start problem) will not be available until late October.

Old style spark plugs should be used at regular service intervals. The new style is recommended for customers with "Hard Start" problems.

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PR...5789/120879803

Idk if you will be able to get the link if your not registred on alldata so i copied the text.

Cool...I had read about people asking why their plug was disconnected.

So what your saying is that it's pointless and not to worry about it. Gotcha

I filled mine like 4 years ago and has never used any lol i guess mine is broke I think I am going to disable it also what does he mean by air gap spark plugs

Look at the little motor on the side of the bottle. You will see that it's all corroded. Pretty much, they froze up after a couple years anyhow. Just space waster really.

I think there is only 1 line that you just need to cap off on the block.

This has been covered before.

Throw that shit away.

To remove this properly, the valve needs to be removed from the intake manifold and a block-off plate installed (or equivalent).
The valve can leak and induce an intake vacuum leak, so it's best to remove it completely.


-Ted

I'm guessing they're referring to the current NGK BUR 9EQ/7EQ plugs which differ from the plugs that were OEM on the '86-88 cars. The current NGK plugs that are recommended have four small notches on the face of each plug which I presume are the "air gaps" that are referenced. The OEM plugs (I kept mine in a box somewhere) had no notches and were solid all the way around. I guess the "air gap" helps promote cold starting somehow, but I'd have no idea why.

Ted, does anyone sell a pre-made block-off plate for eliminating the sub-zero start assist system? Since my old car was an S5 I never had to address this issue before.

what if i have a 12a carburated? it says not recomended but i dnt drive the car in cold weather...will it cause problems if i delete it?

What does it look like? Is it the fluid bottle next to where the wiring harness goes through the firewall on the passenger side? Then that line that goes from it to the thing by the secondary fuel rail?

I converted the bottle to feed oil to the OMP via an external adapter. Just sealed up the holes left by the pump and put in a straight fitting.

the system was originally designed to pump antifreeze into the lower intake manifold. it has a button on the pump to activate it, does not work anyways. remove it.

wut how does antifreeze help it start though?

Ditto? Doesn't make sense to me lol. I just ripped mine out yesterday, I must hav had a vac leak cause it runs a bit smoother now.

no one really knows what the true thought was for the system. perhaps the injectors icing shut or the intake runners were freezing somehow. it is supposed to inject a 90% glycol/10% water solution into the intake tract to deice the engine, unfortunately coolant does NOT burn so any positives are met with a huge negative effect. mazda ran the system from the early 70's through to about mid way through the 2nd generation where they ditched the whole idea, as it didn't work as intended.