RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum - Sub Frame Riser solid bushing

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- - Sub Frame Riser solid bushing - ANGLE ADJUSTABLE! (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/sub-frame-riser-solid-bushing-angle-adjustable-1014464/)

Quote:

Originally Posted by junito1 (Post 11733071)

They took an extra 2 weeks because they are made per order. White line rear camber adjusters.

Attachment 532222

Quote:

Originally Posted by atli126 (Post 11738116)

im very interested in your imput on those new rear whiteline camber adjusters

Both Premiumriceonly and I had issues with these bushings being too long right out of the package. Here's what I had to do to get them to play nice with the rear knuckle:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schmitty (Post 11732615)

So here's the skinny on what you need to do to get those whiteline rear upper trailing arm bushings to fit...

See that little guy?
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7ec27d8d.jpg
you gotta push that back to flush.

Get a C-clamp and a socket and go to town
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...psfjruiihk.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscanfruad.jpg

Then you need to take a bunch of material off of the metal insert and bushing halves. I didn't take any pictures of this, but I just stuck everything on the belt sander and let it ride until it fit. Not really though, I broke out the calipers and kept checking the dimensions and I carefully took off material with the sander. The gap where the bushing needed to go on my knuckle is 1.21". The Metal insert from whiteline came in at 1.24" I took it down to about 1.205" and it fits mint. The poly split bushings came in at 1.305" when assembled in the trailing arm. I took material off both ends of both bushing halves to get them to fully seat in the trailing arm boss and to have a total thickness of 1.19" when assembled without the metal insert. Once the metal insert was pushed back in they squeezed out a little but still allow the knuckle to be installed.

LAme. I havent got to it yet. I will be putting it on the back burner for now as I rather take care of the exhaust leak i have developed. BUt man this kind of bums me out, although now I know what im getting myself into.

So.... installing these is a pain in the ass so I gave up and put the original back in. You do have to modify the product a lot to make it fit as was stated above. Whiteline.... I'm extremely disappointed.. smh

I'm a little confused why he had to belt sand it. I thought you would just press them in with extra gap and use the bolt to sandwich it down. That is also assuming one of the other 2 are sold so it doesn't slide

But yeah, doesn't look like something I wanted to buy in the first place

He had to belt sand it because its too big. It won't just press in. Well you can press it in but the hub won't fit over it because the 3 price bushing is too long. Once you shorten the metal insert you hen have to shorten the 2 poly half's to match the insert.

Finally finished my rear end setup. Been running Psm diff mount and riser, sfr, battle version toe links (essentially the same as Psm), Psm camber links. Just installed Psm RCA bearings, and white line outer camber bushings since Psm was out of stock. Prior setup was money compared to running Derwin or comp bushings in the subframe. Car seemed to not be as sloppy and is more sensitive to throttle control. Will report on new setup soon. White line bushings were a pain to install and will be a pain to adjust, and I hope they don't slip or I'll eat my fenders

Do you think adjustment in the upper outer white line bushings can allow modification of roll center in the rear? By allowing different geometries of rear control arm while still maintaining desired camber?